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3500 intake swap and 75MM TB.

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  • 3500 intake swap and 75MM TB.

    Before you ask, no I haven't made the track yet. I hope to wed.

    3500 intake, port and polished to gasket match. port and polished the tb neck too out to 75mm. I made the TB adapter myself and the transition from TB-adapter-intake is so smooth you can't catch your finger nail on it! Everything is polished to a 240 grit finish. Remember, my intakes will never see emissions or fuel, only air. BTW, the 1" drum sander on a drill ported this intake, @ TB neck, so fast with a 50 grit roll, it was scary. And the roll looked like it was untouched after use. Here I've been doing everything with a dremel/die-grinder and those little sanding rolls from summit. Good for detail work, nothing else.
    The TB is 75mm/3.5". Its from a 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0L V-8. I had to twist it for bolts to line up right and then modify the throttle bracket inorder to clear my hood. It wasn't enough. I also had to modify the hood framing too with a BFH. It clears now...barely. I really need the solid mounts tho, when i stand on it I think it'll rub the hood still.
    [EDIT] Oops forgot something. The vacuum ports. the one at 12 o'clock to the TB I found freeze plug to pound in there with some JB weld. The little port at 3o'clock to TB i had to dremel out to fit another freeze plug in there with some JB weld. The big port for the brake booster got a much smaller thread in barb nipple, and then the 2 vaccum line from there to the trans and the FPR. I also grabbed a MAP from the Aurora Motor too when in the junk yard and popped it in place. It seems to work fine. We'll see I geuss.

    I painted red because everyone else does black, the ford blue i had just didn't seem to go right by me, and i can't afford gold plate so red it is, also i had 2 cans already n my garage. it was cheap.

    On the bench pics, linkage and butterfly still out.




    In the car.




    I found a place get the pipes and couplers to run my cold air intake. It's going to cost me $125 for 2 3.5" dia. 45 degree pipes, 3 couplers, and 6 clamps. I'm broke, so for now she breaths hot.
    Last edited by 95SleeperAcheiva; 08-23-2009, 12:13 PM.
    sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
    A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
    Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
    Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
    PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.

  • #2
    That is ALOT of TB for a 3500 but good luck with it.

    As for the cold air intake...well, unless you can find positive air in driving conditions you may be wasting your money.

    But that subject has pretty well been discussed here already.

    And I think you really should have a PCV valve. It does help.

    But looks good so far.

    Comment


    • #3
      I still argue that a CAI is worth it if you drive any at all in the city. Sure at highway speeds air does cool down the engine bay. In town though, 30mph stop and go my car turns gutless with a WAI. Put back in my modded stock air box and it's got throttle response and power...

      I'll see if the CAI I'll be building when I get time will respond like my modded stock air box or the WAI. I'm sure it's the heat not the magical cone filter that makes the difference. My stock air box is opened up a lot and has a K&N drop in FYI. From my data logs with TunerPro it shows that a WAI is well over 100F. Modded air box and it stays only about 10* above ambient.
      Last edited by IsaacHayes; 08-23-2009, 02:20 PM.
      sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
      1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
      16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
      Original L82 Longblock
      with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
      Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

      Comment


      • #4
        I'm going to agree that for daily driving a CAI is definately better than the stock air box.

        I never meant to suggest otherwise.

        However on a WOT/Race application you are going to have a difficult time convincing me they are worth the powder to blow them to hell!

        Great big long straw is about all it is.

        My wideband numbers dropped (richened) measurably with the CAI in several locations over the straight shot 8" WAI. Simply means it's getting LESS air.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by asylummotorsports View Post
          I'm going to agree that for daily driving a CAI is definately better than the stock air box.

          I never meant to suggest otherwise.

          However on a WOT/Race application you are going to have a difficult time convincing me they are worth the powder to blow them to hell!

          Great big long straw is about all it is.

          My wideband numbers dropped (richened) measurably with the CAI in several locations over the straight shot 8" WAI. Simply means it's getting LESS air.
          That depends on how hot your engine bay is too and how much air circulation you have. I guarantee you my CAI pulls in colder air than a WAI no matter how fast I'm going. My engine bay is very tight and VERY hot. I also have a non-intercooled blower so getting the coldest possilbe air at all times is vital for my outlet temps. With a 3.5" filter and pipe feeding into an LS1 MAF then through 3" pipe to a 65mm TB, I also highly doubt the CAI is any kind of air restriction. Especially compared to the stock airbox, and not with my blower sucking air through it.


          Anyway back on topic, I think a 75mm TB is way overkill for a NA 3500. You're never going to use that much air, unless you plan on boosting it later. Out of curiousity, what did you do for TPS and IAC with that TB?
          '97 Grand Prix GT 3800 (sold)
          '00 Grand Am GT 3400 supercharged
          13.788 @ 103.73 mph, 320whp 300 ft/lbs
          Gotta love boost!

          Comment


          • #6
            On the subject of Ram Air, when I go above 110 mph my AEM wdieband bottoms out at 10.0 :1. I determined it to be airflow related. I took the tube off and it doesn't do it above 120 mph. I have all the tables in the pcm fixed, all the torque and speed limits off. My only guess is that I'm creating enough positive pressure to put either the MAF or the MAP off of their respective tables. Tire issues and 4th slipping at WOT are keeping me from getting a datalog.
            '97 Chevy Lumina, '99 LA1, ported heads, manifolds, 2 1/2" exhaust, k&n filter, 180* stat, A/C delete, Ram air, 3600 FAFB converter, 4T60E shift kit, DHP Power Tuner, AEM UEGO, MegaSquirt II/Extra

            1/8 mile 9.72@75 mph, 2.0 60 foot


            Comment


            • #7
              He has a 3400 guys... TPS and IAC should plug right in.
              sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
              1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
              16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
              Original L82 Longblock
              with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
              Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

              Comment


              • #8
                TPS came from the stock 3400 TB. The IAC I thought would fit and it didn't. Bolt holes were farther apart and the IAC throw was deeper, so that was the stock Aurora IAC. My cold air system will hopefully be routed through my replica W-30 hood scoops I'm going to attempt to fabricate this winter. For now, breathing through the fender.

                BTW, I pulled a 5 year old tantrum today. I jumped up and down, I screamed, I cried, I got my way! Regardless of the power-loss, which I'm still looking into, I hacked my cross-over pipe, made one side a block off plate, the other side got stepped up to 2.5" pipe. The front manifold now dumps its exhaust out the side of the car, in front of the drivers side, front wheel. And the back manifold dumps it's exhaust behind the front passenger wheel. But wow it sounds tons different!
                I know I'm a sick minded individual, I demanded dual exhaust! Here is your opening to ridicule me, I give full permission, I stand ready to spout, "thank you sir, may I have another!?" :P
                sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
                A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
                Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
                Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
                PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.

                Comment


                • #9
                  that is probably the simplest way to make a true dual setup on a FWD...

                  how different do you mean? ricer/cammed BBC/lawn mower/weed eater?
                  1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100, 4T60E...for now, future plans include driving it until the wheels fall off!
                  Latest nAst1 files here!
                  Need a wiring diagram for any GM car or truck from 82-06(and 07-08 cars)? PM me!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    i have true duals.. it's no big deal. Sounds like crap without an X pipe though.

                    If i could figure out my codec issue i've got some new videos of mine with the X pipe that i'll eventually upload.
                    Past Builds;
                    1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
                    1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
                    Current Project;
                    1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      WAY off topic, but avidemux will usually convert anything you can throw at it...
                      1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100, 4T60E...for now, future plans include driving it until the wheels fall off!
                      Latest nAst1 files here!
                      Need a wiring diagram for any GM car or truck from 82-06(and 07-08 cars)? PM me!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Broken/missing codecs

                        Dave, try downloading this...
                        Free-CODECS.COM, or just CODECS.COM - Download the latest codecs and tools, for free - daily updated!

                        It's mostly for AVI files but seems to work with other formats. You don't have to install it,,, just unzip to a folder and run it from there. When you open a media file with GSpot it will try to render all the required codecs and tell you if they are present/working... Freecodecs.com is a good source of info/codecs.....
                        Good luck!!!
                        Troubleshooting codecs CAN be FUNNNNNN!!!!
                        Sorry about being off-topic..
                        Tom...
                        There are other Codec Utilities out there...
                        PS: If you are NOT running Windows,,,, I DON'T KNOW!!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by robertisaar View Post
                          WAY off topic, but avidemux will usually convert anything you can throw at it...
                          I can import them into windows movie maker just fine, previews work but once on the timeline they don't show any video, just sound.

                          I need to edit the clips, there is about 20 minutes of video that needs to be cut down to 2 minutes.
                          Past Builds;
                          1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
                          1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
                          Current Project;
                          1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by AaronGTR View Post
                            That depends on how hot your engine bay is too and how much air circulation you have. I guarantee you my CAI pulls in colder air than a WAI no matter how fast I'm going. My engine bay is very tight and VERY hot. I also have a non-intercooled blower so getting the coldest possilbe air at all times is vital for my outlet temps. With a 3.5" filter and pipe feeding into an LS1 MAF then through 3" pipe to a 65mm TB, I also highly doubt the CAI is any kind of air restriction. Especially compared to the stock airbox, and not with my blower sucking air through it.
                            This is where the subject is touchy... If your forced induction, by all means put your filter away from any heat and get as cold of air as possible... you have a tool to help you pull that air in... Now if you compare a WAI to a CAI at a dragstrip on a N/A motor, the 4-5 bends necessary to produce a CAI WILL cause a restriction on that application, and at the strip my CAI never sucked in colder air when in motion... the sitting at the line and in the staging lanes would heat soak the entire bumper area so all the air coming in was registering high, CAI or not, so rather than get hot air AND make the motor have to suck it up like a hoover, I just eliminated the bends and left it with a WAI.

                            Eric's proven it, his car runs better with his WAI than it did with his CAI and he saw a change on his wideband after his first few runs.

                            Got Lope?
                            3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                            Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                            Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                            12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              according to corky bell, every 90* of turning loses 1% of the flow.... more with sharper bends, but that start stacking up quickly....
                              1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100, 4T60E...for now, future plans include driving it until the wheels fall off!
                              Latest nAst1 files here!
                              Need a wiring diagram for any GM car or truck from 82-06(and 07-08 cars)? PM me!

                              Comment

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