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  • #16
    The damper will seat against the timing gear, you could use it to press on the gear. I am not a fan of using the bolt as a press. They make tools for that. If you get a short piece of pipe you can use that with a damper install tool to seat the timing gear
    1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
    1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
    Because... I am, CANADIAN

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    • #17
      Well I have the external timing setup from the WOT store, which includes a different bolt so I won't be using that to put it on. I guess if I can't manage to grease it up and slide it off/on there I will be back

      It looks like my parts will be here on Friday so I am probably going to do it this weekend. Any other tips? Last time I did this I was able to move the cam freely and I had to align the dots when putting it together. But now with the motor together and the valve train in place the cam nor crank should move on me so I don't have to turn anything by hand to align correct?

      Thanks!
      SpudFiles
      Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
      Theopia
      Enjoy life online.

      1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
      3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

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      • #18
        They can and might move a little... so be prepared to put a wrench on the cam nut to move it a bit... Also the crank will spin free untill the piston comes in contact with a valve if any are open far enough.

        Got Lope?
        3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
        Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
        Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
        12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

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        • #19
          So I should probably just plan on having to realign the crank and cam? There should be no harm in moving things to get the dots aligned?

          Thanks.
          SpudFiles
          Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
          Theopia
          Enjoy life online.

          1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
          3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

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          • #20
            To make things easy, align the dots on the old gear set(with the chain still on) first before removing it. Then install the new set and adjust as necessary.
            Your local OBDII moderator

            2000 Grand Am GT w/ WOT parts

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            • #21
              Yup. If you do have to spin things, pull the valve covers and loosen the rocker arm nuts so the valves close and there is no pressure on the cam. If you spin things without the crank and cam in sync the pistons could hit the valves as previously stated.
              sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
              1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
              16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
              Original L82 Longblock
              with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
              Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

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              • #22
                Thanks guys. Damn parts didn't come this weekend... FedEx updated late Friday afternoon (when it said they were to be delivered) and said they had JUST shipped! Now they say Tuesday... ugh...!

                Do you guys think pulling the front block coolant plug and draining as much coolant that comes from it will be enough to stop coolant from pouring out of the timing cover when I pull it off?

                I remember when I put my crank pulley on, it was a HUGE pain... had to use a mallet and a block of wood to get it to slide on. Is there a proper installer tool or should I just lube it up again and knock it with more wood?

                Thanks.
                SpudFiles
                Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
                Theopia
                Enjoy life online.

                1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
                3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

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                • #23
                  Whoa wait, you hammered on the crank pulley???? BAD idea!!! Hope your crank and bearings are ok from that... Mine I just used the bolt and it drew it up...

                  Coolant plug, give it a shot. It's gotta be better than when I just drained the radiator on mine, and coolant spilled into the oil pan some. (I let it set overnight then pulled the oil plug until only oil came out). Then changed the oil after letting it run for a minute or two.
                  sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                  1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                  16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                  Original L82 Longblock
                  with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                  Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Well it's not like I beat the shit out of the pulley, I tried to be as careful and gentle as I could but yes it was damn near impossible to get the 3100 pulley onto the 3500. It's as if it was made a slightly different size.
                    SpudFiles
                    Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
                    Theopia
                    Enjoy life online.

                    1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
                    3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      OK where in the HELL is the front coolant plug? I've taken out everything that I THOUGHT was it and they are all dry. The GM manual says for the 3100 it's in between the starter and oil filter. That's a screw hole with a bottom in it on my 3500!!

                      Also, since the 99 crank sprocket is thicker than the 3500, that isn't going to cause problems when I try to put my external trigger back onto the end of the crank will it?

                      Thanks.
                      Last edited by PCGUY112887; 07-29-2009, 09:16 PM.
                      SpudFiles
                      Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
                      Theopia
                      Enjoy life online.

                      1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
                      3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Why not just remove the bolt that protrudes into the cooling gallery?
                        Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by 1988GTU View Post
                          Why not just remove the bolt that protrudes into the cooling gallery?
                          Which one do you mean? The timing cover ones that will dump out? I was wondering which were wet holes.

                          And I am so dumb I found the front plug... I had to look in a picture of a motor on a stand before I could go find it myself! Found it now...
                          Last edited by PCGUY112887; 07-29-2009, 10:07 PM.
                          SpudFiles
                          Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
                          Theopia
                          Enjoy life online.

                          1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
                          3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            The front chain gear is not thicker, the chain is thicker so the teeth are thicker... the overall thickness of the sprocket itself has NOT changed... these parts are 100% interchangable... Superdave is running it.

                            Got Lope?
                            3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                            Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                            Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                            12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Well day 2 of this stupid project, and I am stuck on getting the new crank sprocket on. Damn thing just go on! Old one pulled off like nothing, oiled up the crank and inside of the new one and it went nearly all of the way by hand and now it's stuck! Tried tapping with a pipe but it's a plastic pipe (only thing I have big enough) and it won't go anymore with it. Can't pull it back off by hand either... it's on tight! Either I am going to have to find a metal pipe to put on there to hit, or try to use the installer and use the balancer to put it on but I really don't want to put the pulley back on then take it back off!

                              Is the crank bolt an M12 x 1.5? The bolt that came with the TCE external trigger is fairly torn up and there are some flakes in the crank bolt hole from it. I want to get a new bolt and clean out crank threads and I may need to chase them with a tap or a bolt or something...

                              I swear I always run into problems!!!
                              Last edited by PCGUY112887; 07-30-2009, 09:33 PM.
                              SpudFiles
                              Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
                              Theopia
                              Enjoy life online.

                              1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
                              3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                This is not a problem, this is HOW IT IS DESIGNED... Go get TWO proper tools. A metal pipe the diameter of the sprocket... Cut the pipe down and put a large enough washer on the crank bolt so you can PRESS the sprocket into place using the pipe as the press. The second tool is a gear puller if you wish to remove the sprocket again. You will NOT be able to remove the 99 and older sprockets by hand.

                                And yes the crank bolt is M12x1.5

                                Got Lope?
                                3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                                Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                                Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                                12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

                                Comment

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