what distributor should i use?

[darks10racer]

alright i have a tbi 2.8 in an s10 with pistons, cam and bolt ons. the truck redlines at about 8,200 rpm, but my problem is the timing wont go past 36 degrees and its hitting that at about 3,000 rpms. who makes a mechanical advance ditributor that i can throw in it that gives it full tunability?

[jerome]

I know mallary makes a few different types (duel point, mechanical and vacum adv., and I believe electronic) but not sure on any specs for them.

[34blazer]

alright i have a tbi 2.8 in an s10 with pistons, cam and bolt ons. the truck redlines at about 8,200 rpm, but my problem is the timing wont go past 36 degrees and its hitting that at about 3,000 rpms. who makes a mechanical advance ditributor that i can throw in it that gives it full tunability?

some questions

1. which throttlebody are you running?
2.which pistons? compression?
3. what cam?
4. whats done to the heads?

installing a mechanical distributer in the works will cause the engine not to run. as the ecm uses the pickup in the dizzy to reference for the injectors. you will have to run a carb as well.

[geoffinbc]

How much timing are you after? You should not have to go with excessive timing to perform. Are you thinking your not getting a complete burn or something?

[darks10racer]

pistons are the speedpro hyperteuctic pistons with the coated skirts. an ari phase 2 cam and stock fuel , heads, and exhasut. it does have a hypertech chip. anyway i was looking for somewhere between 40 and 45 degrees somewhere around 4k. if anybody has any parts numbers let me know.

[ssdurango]

Wait a minute. Red line on a 2.8 is about 5000. Things start breaking around 5600 rpm. I've never even heard of anyone reving a 60* v6 anywhere near 8200! Are you sure your tach isn't set on 4 cylinder mode?

[34blazer]

Wait a minute. Red line on a 2.8 is about 5000. Things start breaking around 5600 rpm. I've never even heard of anyone reving a 60* v6 anywhere near 8200! Are you sure your tach isn't set on 4 cylinder mode?

no he's just BS'ing and he does it on S10 forum too. i have a solid cam in my 3.4 and wouldnt even try going to 8K let alone over that threshold. and he has stock IRON heads, theres no way it will rev that high with stock springs. he sent me a video of a burnout revving at 6000 and i could hear the valves floating.

[geoffinbc]

Yea and no one runs 40+ deg of timing. Maybe on alcohol?

[darks10racer]

well wenever you wanna race me. my tach is right. . .call up speed unlimited and talk to chris. . .i shift at 6800 and it tachs to 8200. my shift lights set at 6800 and thats when the light hit on the video . . . it can be done. . .you just have to know what your doing. . .thats wat we do is race and we know what were doing. not just me but the other people that built the truck.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Yuhlnq_fKc. thats the video. if anybody knows the answer to my question please post it

[34blazer]

com'on done to tucson i did answer your question, if you want a mechanical dizzy then you are going to need to remove the EFI. the ecm needs the signal from the electronic dizzy to run the engine. and BTW, the video doesnt prove anything without a shot of the tach. and get some dyno sheets proving that this truck of yours can make power after 5K.

*edit*iirc the fuel and spark tables go to 3600 rpm in the $4E code.

[geoffinbc]

Dude come on. You have and ARI stage 2 cam which has 204/214 duration at .050" and only has .420/.443 lift. Its a common street driving cam. There is no way in hell it will make power past 5000 like 34blazer said. Even with Gen III heads it would not make power past 5500. The only way you will see any performance that high in the RPM range is with boost. And if you are running a blower or turbo than there is no way in hell you would be after 40+ deg of timing. It doesn't matter who knows what they are doing, it wont make power at high RPM with that cam. You even said it has stock fuel, heads and exhaust. Stick with what you have it sounds like it runs fine.

[34blazer]

dude come on. You have and ari stage 2 cam which has 204/214 duration at .050" and only has .420/.443 lift. Its a common street driving cam. There is no way in hell it will make power past 5000 like 34blazer said. Even with gen iii heads it would not make power past 5500. The only way you will see any performance that high in the rpm range is with boost. And if you are running a blower or turbo than there is no way in hell you would be after 40+ deg of timing. It doesn't matter who knows what they are doing, it wont make power at high rpm with that cam. You even said it has stock fuel, heads and exhaust. Stick with what you have it sounds like it runs fine.

thank you:d

[darks10racer]

i never said i was making power up to 8,200. . . i just said that it would go that high. i will pm u a video of my truck and the tach when i get a cahnce.

[jerome]

Wait a minute. Red line on a 2.8 is about 5000. Things start breaking around 5600 rpm. I've never even heard of anyone reving a 60* v6 anywhere near 8200! Are you sure your tach isn't set on 4 cylinder mode?

.... yeah actually the read line is from 6000 to 7000 if and peak power is made at 5200 so i don't know were you are getting your info but that much is possible. but I do agree that a stocker would never make it to 8 grand but the 5000 6000 area is definitely possible.

[geoffinbc]

the truck redlines at about 8,200 rpm,

To an english speaking person your statement means your truck has the capability to rev to 8200RPM. If you meant your tach goes to 8200 RPM than that what you should have said. Plus I highly doubt your tach stops at 8200RPM. It would stop at 6000, 8000 or 10,000. I have never seen and 8200RPM tach.

And the point still remains that you DO NOT need a distributor with a 40+ deg advance capability. But if you insist then just advance your base timing to 15* and you will get 41* total advance and then let the ECM pull out timing when it senses a ton of knock. Switch to a mechanical advance distributor and run that much timing without the safety net of a knock sensor you will run into severe spark knock and then your into a whole host of problems including broken pistons, pounded out bearings, bent or broken rods and blown out head gaskets.