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Last edited by blownarrow; 04-06-2009, 05:05 PM.sigpicWhen I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
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Originally posted by Weston19 View PostAre you using the 3500 crank? If so, how much is the offset grind going to cost you? Im trying to price it out here, people are shooting me some insane numbers...1400+.......This is pretty much exactly what i wanted to do until i seen the cost on offset grind.....
Im not even spending that much on my crank and machining work combined. With knife-edging and regrind, I wont be looking at more than $600 tops.
P.S. Yes Im using a 3500 forged steel crank and 3500 block.Took a break from working on the car. Got some better tools, got a better shop, got a better job... Its time to burn metal!
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BUMP!
Ok sorry for bringing this tread back but I have a final question?
Please clear up some confusion...
Not interested in the aluminum heads...!
Question: Are all the Iron heads the same 2.8, 3.1, 3.4....?
what's the cc size? and valve size for them? Looking for as much info in the iron heads as I can get....
thankssigpicWhen I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
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Originally posted by SappySE107 View PostKiss high RPMs goodbye then with the iron heads unless you boost the piss out of it.
Originally posted by robertisaar View Postwhen its been proven how much better the aluminum heads are in (probably) every aspect, i really don't see why anyone would want iron. blownarrow, whats the reasoning?
I'm not only looking for hp (230+/-) but also the Vintage IMSA look.
I'm using a build of the Kateck motor which is strangely similar to the
MacPherson's SCORE Class 7 truck, using stock mildly built Pre 86 heads (I have 89 heads) , Custom 2bbl intake (I have) Holley 500 2V (I have), Chevette 360 Rear main seal (I have) Fresh 2.8 and crank (I have), Modified Small block rods 5.70" (I have) But instead of sleeving the block down to 2.4L I'm staying with the 3.5" bore of the 2.8L. I was going to run Cosworth vega pistons, but going with the cheaper Venolia pistons #2643-Dome (Ordered 4 weeks to build...ugh) and will be running the 5spd not the 4spd
I guess what I was looking for is if any body had any iron head trick up there sleeve's...Last edited by blownarrow; 04-08-2009, 11:52 PM.sigpicWhen I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
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your going to have a hard time getting upto ~230hp with irons. you will have to do some pretty extreme P&P work to those heads to pull 7000K and not stall the port. the irons have the egr ports as well. i had mine filled with aluminum. the money you are going to dump into those heads will put you no where near your expected power output. dont mess with the short side runners on either port unless you have notable experience. if you do you will create excessive turbulence in the bowl. the tear-drop behind the intake valve guide should pointing toward the center of the cylinder to help increase swirl. dont just go crazy on port matching on the intake port, the head bolt boss obscures the port and you cant grind it down too far before you break thru. HTH'86 Grand National
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Originally posted by 34blazer View Postyour going to have a hard time getting upto ~230hp with irons. you will have to do some pretty extreme P&P work to those heads to pull 7000K and not stall the port. the irons have the egr ports as well. i had mine filled with aluminum. the money you are going to dump into those heads will put you no where near your expected power output. dont mess with the short side runners on either port unless you have notable experience. if you do you will create excessive turbulence in the bowl. the tear-drop behind the intake valve guide should pointing toward the center of the cylinder to help increase swirl. dont just go crazy on port matching on the intake port, the head bolt boss obscures the port and you cant grind it down too far before you break thru. HTHsigpicWhen I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
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well... You seemed sorta fixed on using Iron heads, so I wont drag the point. I will say in all candidness that you will have difficulty, (assuming that it is even possible), in getting 230hp to squeeze out of those heads without F.I.
A set of sonic checked, fully ported and chamber shaped iron heads will stop flowing where 3100 heads begin.
Im a person who likes to step outside of the box, so I embrace your unorthodox mentality. (I find it rather interesting even.) However, your expectations of the Iron heads exceeds reality.
Think about this before you spend the crazy amount of money neccessary to get a set of "Iron heads" to perform. Ive tried and failed in the same footsteps your taking now. You should at least use F.I.Took a break from working on the car. Got some better tools, got a better shop, got a better job... Its time to burn metal!
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Originally posted by Driver_10 View PostThink about this before you spend the crazy amount of money neccessary to get a set of "Iron heads" to perform. Ive tried and failed in the same footsteps your taking now. You should at least use F.I.
And high power and iron heads - you need forced induction, which does lead to decent power, but still doesn't lend itself to RPM - quite the contrry in fact.
The only reason to stick with iron heads is to retain the appearance (a stock looking Fiero, for instance) or because you don't need more power (some of the V6 swaps into MGs etc.)
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So, iron heads suk. exhaust manifolds suk. I've got a 2.8 v6 with both. SUKS. So how hard is it to change to 3500 heads on a RWD S-10? there is no TBI manifold for those so I'd have to change the computer, fuel pump, and a bunch of other junk to get all that to work. But will it pass emissions in Arizona?
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