whats needed for high revs?

[no_doz]

with light aluminum flywheel, ac delete & underdrive pulleys, aluminum aftermarket rods, high compression, and the right cam, what would be needed to make the hp peak from 6-8kpms (like with the wot-tech cam 1651) the hp peaks from 4-6k rpms then drops off by 7, im talking a cam that peak hp ranges like that from 6.5-8.5k rpms. what would be needed in terms of the head/valve springs? i realize that the throttlebody would need to be quite large so i figure a dual port one off of a 90's lt1's as well as i realize everything would need ported & gasket matched & massive computer reprogramming done of the part of wot tech :P

[Nightingale]

question is what are you doing that you need such high rpms, and 2) is this a daily driver or a track only car? I mean with aluminum rods you are going to need to rebuild the motor frequently. Your also forgetting to add that you would want the crank knife edge as well if pushing for max rpm(helps with windage and lightens the crank).

[no_doz]

we'd be talking daily driver :P

[asylummotorsports]

There is no need to rev these engines anywhere near that high to make tons of power.

And aluminum rods on a DD is absurd!

Sounds like a big batch of overkill to me.

Have fun with it, and stock up on rebuild gaskets.

[kflo 93 gt]

Also, are you thinking of trying this with the 3.1? In that heavy tank? With the automatic?

I'm on the floor LoLing all over the place

[1988GTU]

I didn't see that this was a high reving thread for 3.1/2.8's .... LMAO!!!

No seriously, is this a joke? Keep the RPM's below 5 grand at all costs! It'll save for some pocket book heart break and power hungry let down.


























LMAO this thread got me right in the kisser. POW!

[no_doz]

lol this would actually be with a 3100/3400 and it would be in a non-gm vehicle that is particularly light. i dont necessarily intend to do this-im just curious as to what it would take to make one of these into a high rev monster :P. also whats up with the aluminum rods on DD? i said aluminum because i wasnt sure whats best for strength/revs-i believe itd be forged but im too tired to look it up right now-i get off work here in 8 mins

[Nightingale]

Aluminum rods are pretty much a drag race only item because they stretch out. If you were serious you would start with a 3.5L since the heads flow great out of the box, and for the price they are a great base engine to start with. There are numerous things that would determine getting an engine to rev up high. Valvetrain weight, cam, and rotating assembly weight all play into the engines "revability."

[93grandprixse]

you would also want a light valve train, light connecting rods and pistons, as well as a light crank which all would need to be balanced precisely down to less than .2 grams...

you would also find benefits from running an electric water pump, smaller crank pulley and larger alternator pulley, and a light weight flywheel with a 3-4 puck clutch...


you could also go even more extreme by using a 2.8l crankshaft in a 3500 and eather shaving the deck hight way down, or using longer rods...

annother good idea would be to have seperate intakes for each cylinder with a primary and secondary fuel system for each "runner" kind of like how formula 1 car engines are...

would be a crazy build...

[no_doz]

i hear so much about these 3500s but really how cheap can they be to pick up? i can get a 3100 for like $250-300 pretty easy & a 3400 for around 400-how cheap can the 3500 be, which 3500 are we talking about, and what vehicles did it come in? also will it bolt up to all the same transaxles as the 3100 or 3400?

[Nightingale]

3.5L come in a variety of gm vehicles. Best bet I believe is to look for a 2003-2006 malibu 3.5L. Price range is about the same as the 3100-3400 engines. There are a few extra things you will need to get them to work, but all that is described in the 3500 swap guide thread found at the top of the pushrod performance section. Just make sure to get the non-vvt 3.5L.

[RedBird]

i'm getting a non-vvt 3500 from an 06 malibu, 30k miles for 400 bucks. all the 3100/3400's around here with that same mileage are 600+ bucks.


3500 FTW!

[no_doz]

ive found a bunch of the 3.5 vvts on the internet for like 500 bucks-would this be worth doing or are these a lot harder to swap/a lot heavier? i know these have more power & with the vvt i would figure better gas mileage & all around torque curve-am i wrong? also does anyone make vvt cams for these that would be more aggressive for each or more aggressive for just the top end or is this even possible?

[WrathOfSocrus]

i dont necessarily intend to do this

You need to do what I did and go to the back of a forum section like the Pushrod Performance section and read every thread. It might take several weeks but it sure beats getting people excited about a new build that will never happen.

If biting into the that forum section is too much then start with the transmission or suspension sections. Not nearly as many threads but valuable information nonetheless.

[no_doz]

id love to-but that would take weeks and expose me to lots of information that i may need help with and that i might not understand, let alone weeding out the bs from the good info.