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Which boost would you use?

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  • #31
    N20 works in two ways. One it does have a cooling effect, but that is not the primary reason it adds power. It's main purpose is to introduce more oxygen into the cylinder. When N2O reaches about 570 F the oxygen seperates from the nitrogen, thus adding more O2 to the cylinder. Giving you the ability to add more fuel. N2O will raise cylinder pressure also just like a turbo or supercharger. The reason the 2.4 died was more than likely because it leaned out.
    When it comes to a turbo setup, everyone talks about lag being bad and such. Well, power comes with lag. A larger turbo is going to have more than a smaller turbo. Obviously, its turbine is slightly larger than the smaller. But it will have better high rpm capabilities verses one that is too small. The small turbo will give you great off idle response, but there will become a point in the rpm range where it will become a restriction and stop making power. It seems everyone wants to run high boost levels and such. But few actually take into consideration that boost refers to restriction. Meaning that if you do head work and such to help airflow you can make the same power using less boost. Helping to stay within a specific octane rating. Another misconception is that you must lower your compression anytime you boost an engine. You don't have to as long as your staying within reasonable boost levels, and have a properly intercooled setup. Most stock engines can run 5-6 psi safely on stock CR.
    On superchargers with a non-cog style belt. It is very possible and more than likely that some belt slippage does exist. Be that it might be almost immeasureable, but it is present. Based on choices of superchargers, a centrifigul or screw type are more efficient designs than the old roots style blowers. They are able to create higher boost levels with less heating of the air charge.
    Each one has its short comings. But, they all acomplish one thing and that is to add power. Deciding what one you want to use is entirely up to you, and what you feel comfortable with doing and what you can afford. I am sure I missed somethings, but this is a general overview of each one. Sorry it was long.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by Jon89LE
      Thats pretty good then. Im surprised he got that low without even head work. If you could, just for 411, post up his mods when you get a chance.
      I definately will. I don't have a list of them in front of me right now, but I will post them shortly. I don't remember everything, I will just post what I can remember right now...it should be most of it

      Thrasher Cold Air Intake (completely insulated from engine bay)
      Modular Pulley System w/2.7,2.6, & 2.45" Pullies
      ZZP Stage 2 Throttle Body
      ZZP Stage 4 Ported & Polished M90
      ZZP Intercooler w/Stage 2 Radiator & Pump
      1.91:1 Rocker Arms
      85lb. Valvesprings
      Ceramic & Titanium Coated TOG Headers
      High Flow Cat & U-bend replacement
      Borla Cat-Back Exhaust
      DHP Reprogrammed PCM
      Drilled 160 degree thermostat
      Thrasher Shift Kit
      Autolite 103 Spark Plugs
      Intense LSD

      I know there are a few other MINOR things but I can't remember them right now.

      The car has a lot of other things done to it since that time was ran though, the tranny has been built up with 3.29 final drive (2.93 is stock) and heavy duty parts, we put in a 3000 stall convertor, and an electric water pump. He also got a little computer work done too it since then so now he can add timing (currently only 6* over stock unfortunately, but he is working on getting another computer to fix a few problems he is having and make it so he can run up to 12* over stock timing, because the engine doesn't knock with the 6* over stock, so might as well add more. My dad is going for 11's on the stock internals.

      Shawn
      90 Grand Prix STE 3.1 Intercooled Turbo-3100 Hybrid
      K&N, Magnaflows, No Cat, Chip, FFP Pulley, H260 Cam, No EGR.
      99 Grand Prix GT
      K&N|No Cat/ubend/res|160 tstat|shift kit|UD ALT & WP Pulleys|XP Cam|Stage 2 I/C|Pacesetters|MPS|2.9"|Custom PCM
      12.665 @ 110.44 w/2.018 60', STREET TIRES, PUMP GAS!

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      • #33
        I figured id revive this thread again. When people such as RSM i believe did put roots style blowers on their cars, how do they do it? The 3400s ive seen have the blower mounted in front of the motor and an intake arm running from the blower to the stock plenum. Is there any disadvantage to doing it this way?

        And Shawn, that is quite a list of mods, NOW i can kinda see him running those numbers.

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        • #34
          I've been running 9 psi on 9.6:1 forever.

          thats what i like to hear

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          • #35
            Regarding cams, turbos like cams near stock with little to no overlap. Why?because just outside the exhaust port you've got this big bottleneck called the exhaust turbine which generates lots of back pressure. With overlap, you would have exhaust backflow into the combustion chamber or even into the intake. Not a good thing for combustion or power. With nitrous, as mentioned by a previous poster, you are putting in extra Oxygen which will support additional fuel for more power - thats why a wet system is the way to go - nitrous alone will cause you to go lean, detonate, kaboom.

            Bosst of either variety requires a complete installation to be safe and effective. If done well, none are dangerous for your motor. Done poorly and any mod can blow the engine. Boost done right will provide for additional fuelling with oversized injectors, spark timing control, intercooling and sufficient monitoring. An aftermarket or reprogrammed GM ECU (or a TGP ECU swap), while pricer than a variable pressure fuel regulator and various electronic half-measures, will yield the better result.

            Whatever path you choose, you want to monitor Air Fuel mixture (and maybe EGTs) at the very least. Massive power increass will also stress the tranny, and third member so addtional upgrades or mechinacal empathy are required.

            For your budget, it sounds like you could do a very professional wet nitrous system with a margin of safety. Or a forced induction bomb unless you are going to fabricate all the parts yourself use a second hand turbo and burn your own eeproms by using the software at gmpcm.

            More power to ya!

            Brian C.

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