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need 3500 rocker arm studs

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  • need 3500 rocker arm studs

    I need 3/8 x 8mm rocker-arm studs. If I cant find them then Ill have to bore and re-tap my heads for the 10mm studs that I have now.

    please help.
    Took a break from working on the car. Got some better tools, got a better shop, got a better job... Its time to burn metal!

  • #2


    You mean those??

    What rockers are you trying to use??

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    • #3
      Originally posted by sanjay View Post
      http://wot-tech.com/shop/3400/valvet...-/prod_43.html

      You mean those??

      What rockers are you trying to use??
      Im using a set of Crower cromoly steel 1.6:1 roller rockers. Its neccessary to use adjustable rockers since Im using Crane solid roller lifters. Solid rollers are a pain to keep adjusted, but they're vital for my set-up. This motor will redline at 7500rpm and needs the additional valvetrain stability. Hydraulic rollers begin to float after 6500 rpms.
      Last edited by Driver_10; 11-15-2008, 02:31 PM.
      Took a break from working on the car. Got some better tools, got a better shop, got a better job... Its time to burn metal!

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      • #4
        Which rockers exactly? I would like to see what they have that is compatible. ARP makes 8mm studs but I don't know if they would work well with what you have. You would need the adjustable nuts for on top as well.

        Drilling the heads for 10mm would be a real PITA to get perfectly straight.
        Ben
        60DegreeV6.com
        WOT-Tech.com

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        • #5
          that high of rpm, what are you going to be doing about the bottom end bearings?
          sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
          1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
          16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
          Original L82 Longblock
          with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
          Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by IsaacHayes View Post
            that high of rpm, what are you going to be doing about the bottom end bearings?
            I'm removing and blocking the #5&6 oil squirters and widening the main-oil channels feeding the crank to boost oil flow to the mains. Ill also be using ARP main-studs with two possibly three "double-stacked"/ welded windage trays. (It'll also help take up the extra distance left behind by the longer threaded studs)

            Id rather use a main girdle, but I dont have the cash to have one machined out. Hopefully I wont find glitter in my oil-filter after my first hard run.
            Took a break from working on the car. Got some better tools, got a better shop, got a better job... Its time to burn metal!

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            • #7
              Actually, while were on the subject of oil. Does anyone have a good oil viscosity/ brand to recomend for an engine enduring this kind of torture.
              Took a break from working on the car. Got some better tools, got a better shop, got a better job... Its time to burn metal!

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              • #8
                Its not torture. Your bottom end wont have a problem. Your rods will have to be strong that's all. Balance it as best as possible and keep the everything on the valve side of the rocker arm light. The engine will do fine. Just don't let her detonate LOL.

                For any engine going racing you need to run a synthetic oil and Redline is the best.

                You are using a 3400 block right?
                1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
                1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
                Because... I am, CANADIAN

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                • #9
                  Im using a 3500 block, heads and crank.

                  Im building this combo up to (and not) exceeding 650hp crank.
                  Last edited by Driver_10; 11-17-2008, 03:50 PM.
                  Took a break from working on the car. Got some better tools, got a better shop, got a better job... Its time to burn metal!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Driver 10, Any more info on building a 60*V6 that'll handle repeated trips to 7000-7500 RPM and survive would be much appreciated....I'd prever to stay hydraulic roller though.

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                    • #11
                      Hydraulic lifters work to 7000 RPM as lorenzo has proven on the dyno. Valve float would equal power loss, and there was none.

                      Redline is the best oil now?
                      Ben
                      60DegreeV6.com
                      WOT-Tech.com

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                      • #12
                        Ive wittnessed it while watching a "heads and cam" Ls1 on the dyno. From what Ive seen, you get "spongey lifters" at around 6700rpms with a stock Ls1 shortblock.

                        Given, the LS7 uses hydraulic lifters and it has a 1.7:1 rockers and stiffer springs to boot. But I imagine that there is a bit of power loss somewhere on the dyno as it neres redline.

                        I will be shifting at 7200 rpms and would rather rely on convetional hot-rodder knowlege.
                        Took a break from working on the car. Got some better tools, got a better shop, got a better job... Its time to burn metal!

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by SappySE107 View Post
                          Redline is the best oil now?
                          Well that or the green Castrol Oil. But it seems it is very hard to find. If you can find another oil that uses true polyol ester base stock then I would go for that too.
                          1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
                          1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
                          Because... I am, CANADIAN

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Driver_10 View Post
                            I'm removing and blocking the #5&6 oil squirters and widening the main-oil channels feeding the crank to boost oil flow to the mains.
                            Why are you doing this? I always thought the squirters were for additional cooling, not additional oiling.
                            Your local OBDII moderator

                            2000 Grand Am GT w/ WOT parts

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                            • #15
                              You also forgeting that the 3500 runs a higher c.r. on regular unleaded fuel. It needs the additional cooling. I need the oil volume at the crank. Ill be running looser clearances and more oil sheering so I cant afford the losses at the squirter.

                              Besides, Ill also have meth-injection and the ability to run flex fuel from time to time. I just dont need the squirters.
                              Took a break from working on the car. Got some better tools, got a better shop, got a better job... Its time to burn metal!

                              Comment

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