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Im using a set of Crower cromoly steel 1.6:1 roller rockers. Its neccessary to use adjustable rockers since Im using Crane solid roller lifters. Solid rollers are a pain to keep adjusted, but they're vital for my set-up. This motor will redline at 7500rpm and needs the additional valvetrain stability. Hydraulic rollers begin to float after 6500 rpms.
Which rockers exactly? I would like to see what they have that is compatible. ARP makes 8mm studs but I don't know if they would work well with what you have. You would need the adjustable nuts for on top as well.
Drilling the heads for 10mm would be a real PITA to get perfectly straight.
that high of rpm, what are you going to be doing about the bottom end bearings?
sigpicNew 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles 16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
that high of rpm, what are you going to be doing about the bottom end bearings?
I'm removing and blocking the #5&6 oil squirters and widening the main-oil channels feeding the crank to boost oil flow to the mains. Ill also be using ARP main-studs with two possibly three "double-stacked"/ welded windage trays. (It'll also help take up the extra distance left behind by the longer threaded studs)
Id rather use a main girdle, but I dont have the cash to have one machined out. Hopefully I wont find glitter in my oil-filter after my first hard run.
Took a break from working on the car. Got some better tools, got a better shop, got a better job... Its time to burn metal!
Its not torture. Your bottom end wont have a problem. Your rods will have to be strong that's all. Balance it as best as possible and keep the everything on the valve side of the rocker arm light. The engine will do fine. Just don't let her detonate LOL.
For any engine going racing you need to run a synthetic oil and Redline is the best.
Driver 10, Any more info on building a 60*V6 that'll handle repeated trips to 7000-7500 RPM and survive would be much appreciated....I'd prever to stay hydraulic roller though.
Ive wittnessed it while watching a "heads and cam" Ls1 on the dyno. From what Ive seen, you get "spongey lifters" at around 6700rpms with a stock Ls1 shortblock.
Given, the LS7 uses hydraulic lifters and it has a 1.7:1 rockers and stiffer springs to boot. But I imagine that there is a bit of power loss somewhere on the dyno as it neres redline.
I will be shifting at 7200 rpms and would rather rely on convetional hot-rodder knowlege.
Took a break from working on the car. Got some better tools, got a better shop, got a better job... Its time to burn metal!
Well that or the green Castrol Oil. But it seems it is very hard to find. If you can find another oil that uses true polyol ester base stock then I would go for that too.
You also forgeting that the 3500 runs a higher c.r. on regular unleaded fuel. It needs the additional cooling. I need the oil volume at the crank. Ill be running looser clearances and more oil sheering so I cant afford the losses at the squirter.
Besides, Ill also have meth-injection and the ability to run flex fuel from time to time. I just dont need the squirters.
Took a break from working on the car. Got some better tools, got a better shop, got a better job... Its time to burn metal!
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