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  • Looking for a 3.4L performance swap write up

    New to this forum. A member from S-10 forums recommend I visit here to help me get some advice on a peformance swap that I'm potentially thinking of doing.

    I have a 1988 S-10 p/u. Has a 2.8L tbi matched with a 4L60 trans. Only have 125k miles on truck. But I just bought it this past March. Pervious owner didn't take very good care of it. Trans is slipping and engine isn't in much better condition. It does get me around for now, as I'm planning on buying another vehicle next spring. Sooner if possible. When I do that's when I plan to do a an engine swap and fix up the body.

    From the advice I recieved on the other forum, I was thinking along the lines of getting a 3.4L HT to replace the 2.8L with. While searching the net for performance parts to add to or enhance the HT, I came across a brief write about using gen III heads and intake on the 3.4L.

    This appeals to me on a cost/hp gain basis. If I'm going through all the extra effort to gain more hp's by installing the 3.4L instead of just rebuilding the stock 2.8L, then having the intake modified to accept a 4.3L tbi, install a cai..ect. Only to have all this choked by poorly designed heads and intake just doesn't make scence to me.

    My only issue is this. Unlike many of you that have had the benfit of someone like father, uncle or older brother to teach me how to do things, I did not. I have some resourvations at to whether I can do a complete rebuild of an engine. Not withstanding, I'm not sure I want to spend the extra money buying specialty tools that I'll use only once in my life. I only have one child and if my ex has anything to say about, she'll never pick up a tool in her life. So it's not like I have any sons that would benifit from inheriting a big tool collection.

    My plan now is to find a local shop and buy a rebuilt short block 3.4L from them instead of buying the HT. Then either find an online source or go to a bone yard for the heads and intake. Ideally, again to save time and the need to buy extra tools, I'ld like to find fully assembled heads that are ready to bolt on, rather then having to do them myself.

    To make sure I've got all my bases covered, I've spent the last few days googling like crazy trying to find a complete write up on doing such a swap. And while some may laugh at me for asking, I'd really like to know if there's any books written on/about the 3.4L engine. Chiltons/Haynes just are not indepth enough for my tastes.

    Lastly, I live in the Chicago area. Not all that far from Brookfield Zoo actually. I would like to know from anyone that lives in the general area if they know of any good shops I should talk to or work with to do all this. Just as equally important, which shops should I avoid?

    Thanks

    Jax

  • #2
    Yes the heads will hold you back if you quest is ultimate power. However the head swap is not easy on a rear wheel drive vehicle. If you have never done a project like this before and you are not familiar with fuel injection and wiring let alone the building process of an engine then I would not suggest that route for you. Doing a 3.4L swap in stock form with a few bolt on is a good novice project. And trust me it will make your truck very fun to drive. You can drop in a 3.4L this time around and keep the stock fuel injection system. Have fun with it for a while and work any bugs out. Then maybe later find some junkyard gen III heads, intake and wiring harness learn more about fuel injection and tuning methods and then do the head swap.
    1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
    1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
    Because... I am, CANADIAN

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    • #3
      I agree with betterthanyou, the head swap isn't all that easy, but with a 3.4 block, you have that option open later . It's much easier to swap an aluminum head top end when you already have provisions for DIS, but non the less, it's still involved.

      When you are ready we'll be here to help, but 3500 heads on your 3.4 with a good cam and high compression will be quite fun.

      Welcome to the site, and please post pics of your progress

      -john
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      • #4
        Won't be much progress until next spring. Need to save for a different daily driver and some other tools that I'm gonna need.

        Since it's all related to the same project, I would like to ask a few more questions pertaining to this vehicle. Ones that could be applied to either project.

        As I've mentioned already, I bought this beater on the spur of the moment. It wasn't take very well care of. I've been fixing things slowly as money permits, but now I'm starting to get to a point where things I fix will have an effect down the road when I do either swap.

        Prime example of this is my trans. When I purchased the vehicle the idiot before me had the TV cable tied to the TBI unit. Needless to say, driving it gave me whiplash as it slipped from gear to gear. I did replace the TV cable, had some spare trans fluid so I dumped that in there, only to find out that I have a front seal leak. (fluid is leaking from the bell housing and engine block)

        Before I go further, I'd like to mention, once I get another vehicle to use as a daily driver, this vehile will be used for my out door hobbies... hunting, camping fishing (pulling a small boat).

        First off, are there any additives that I can use that will help slow down that leak and help with shifting until I can save up and have trans replaced or rebuilt? When it comes time to replace the trans, I'd like something a lil beefier then a stock 4l60. What should I tell the trans shop?

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        • #5
          The front seal is easily replaced if you have the ability to drop the trans. I personally am not a fan of any of the "stop leak" type formulas.

          The 4l60 was put behind the LSx motors in the F body. I know with it's older brother (700r4 like I have) the guts can be swapped out for V8 parts.
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          • #6
            I agree forced. I used that powdered junk in a leaky cooling system once during the summer. Came winter, my heater core was all gunked up, even after I had ran the whole system wide up when I first added the stuff in.

            My delemia is this.... I'd really like to switch to an OBD II computer. Actually come to think about it, how would an OBD I computer that's programmed to handle to two injectors that the 2.8L engine I have now into handling 6 injectors like the 3.4L system would have. That's of course assuming that I stick to my guns and do the head/upper/plenium swap to a 3400 setup.

            This would mean upgrading from the 4l60 cable controlled trans to the electronically controlled 4l60-E version. I can't see spending the extra cash fixing up the manual 4l60 only to turn around and replace it with a different (although a small difference) trans. Remeber, it's not just leaking...because the idiot that owned the vehicle before me drove it around with the TV cable TIED to the TBI instead of properly installing a new TV cable and adjusting it accordingly...(it only cost me $30 and half hour's worth of work to do it myself).

            For my vehicle there's a few more issues to consider as well. My truck is also part time 4x4. Since I purchased the beater truck, I've only driven it in 2 wheel mode. I have yet attempted switching it into 4 wheel drive. According to my Haynes book on my truck, in order to drop the trans, you first have to drop the transfer case out.

            There's also the driver's side exhaust pipe that comes down, makes a 90* turn and then passes under the trans right where the bellhousing narrows down before the main "body" of the trans is. I can't see of any way of dropping the trans without having to disconnect the exhaust system first. Granted, my ehaust system does need to be replaced. Without thinking, I grabbed a hold of the pipe to help get myself into possition to connect the tv cable to the trans. The system is so corroded, that I put a hole in it just by grabbing onto it. But there again, I'd be replacing 2.8L stock parts. When I'm already planning on upgrading to a hi-flow system when I do the engine swap. (When the time comes, I'm REALLY gonna need some pointers there! I'd like to put in some ceramic headers with the 3.4L.)

            I seen that show on USA network called "Trucks!" where they installed a LSx engine in a gen III S-10. In order to do so, they pulled the steering rod out, dropped the engine in and then ran the rod behind the headers. Then of course, even if I get past that, just right about where the firewall is, is where the tranfer case is located on the driver's side of the vehicle. (Did I mention this is gonna be an "interesting" swap?)

            I'm really over a barrel here. I need to continue using the truck as my daily driver. Yet I can't see spending money where I could use it for something else. In my case, my first step in any swap is to get another vehicle, because this one will be down for as long as it takes for me to do the things I want to and do them right.

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            • #7
              Hi there!

              If you go to GenIII heads, you will need to convert to a newer ECM or PCM to run the six injectors. This does involve some wiring work. You would not necessarily have to change the transmission, since you could reprogram the PCM to not care about the transmission. There are benefits to letting the PCM run the transmission, though, and it would be an option. The only 4L60-E for the 3.4V6 came in the camaro and Firebird, but there were plenty of those made.

              Edelbrock among others makes headers for the 3.4V6 (and the 2.8V6 -- the headers are the same) for the iron heads. Nobody that I know of makes headers that fit a RWD chassis that will fit the GenIII heads. Maybe someone else can correct me on this. You might be able to have the header flange removed, and one for the GenIII heads welded on. I have a set of headers that I may use for that, if I ever get around to it.

              Since you're staying with a 3.4, putting headers in won't cause you any steering shaft grief. I've put headers on two different 2.8V6 trucks, and neither was that big of a problem. Both were 2WD. b Stuffing a V8 into an S-10, like the TV show you saw, is a common swap but it does take a lot of work. The 3.4V6 iron head swap is a bolt-in, and it is the best bang-for-the-buck engine swap.

              You need to get the Helm manual for your truck. This is the factory manual, and it is worth it. New from Helminc.com or used from Factoryautomanuals.com.
              1982 Chevrolet S-10 Sport, 2.8V6 TBI
              2006 Pontiac Solstice

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              • #8
                The iron head headers WILL work on the GenIII top end

                The ports are in the same place, the mounting bolt holes are just spread a little wider. I posted pics a while back of the modification.
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                • #9
                  Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                  The iron head headers WILL work on the GenIII top end

                  The ports are in the same place, the mounting bolt holes are just spread a little wider. I posted pics a while back of the modification.
                  That's good news. I haven't put my hands on a GenIII top end off of a car, yet. The other day in a salvage yard I walked by a 3400 from a minivan that had been pulled (I think they were after the transaxle), but I didn't have a way to haul it home or I would have grabbed it.

                  The headers I've got would be pretty easy to modify if it's just a bolt spacing problem.

                  I have just received a 3.4V6 Camaro engine. I may do a GenIII swap on it yet, before it makes it into either my truck or Blazer.
                  1982 Chevrolet S-10 Sport, 2.8V6 TBI
                  2006 Pontiac Solstice

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                  • #10
                    If you can tune and get a decent sized cam, the 3.4/3500 should be a killer in a RWD vehicle


                    I only have data from a 3.4/3500 in a Camaro with stock 3.4 pistons (11.5:1 or so) and he didn't heed my advice of using a cam at least with the 272 grind or better. So the car pulled like a freight train 'till 3000RPM and detonated like a package of fireworks.

                    Cam and tune plays an important role, be cautious of your parts selection.
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