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roller cam lifter conversion on 85 2.8 block OILING ISSUES?

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  • roller cam lifter conversion on 85 2.8 block OILING ISSUES?

    ok is there any oiling issues using a 3100 roller cam in a 2.8 1985 camaro block???? i am modding the guideplates to work, but heard somehwere there is oil problems? or can i get away running the roller cam????

    Chris

  • #2
    I'm not sure about the oiling issues. But to kinda answer your question, you should be able to do the conversion cause crane cams I believe has a conversion kit for typical 350 small blocks and they work for non roller cam engines. The lifter bores are the same so your best bet would be to call crane or comp and see what they say about an engine that might have oiling issues such as the older 60* blocks.

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    • #3
      Only a solid roller lifter cam will work. You cannot use a hydaulic setup.
      1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
      1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
      Because... I am, CANADIAN

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      • #4
        The only way you can run hydralic is to convert the block to sbc style oil galleries which I am not familiar with that proceedure. One side of the gallieries is actually ok I belive , the other is not.
        1992 Chevrolet S10
        2.8 v6 tbi 5 speed

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        • #5
          it's too bad that the only way to force feed the second gallery would be to take off one of the caps at the end and plug a hose into it. Unfortunately, both ends are covered when the engine is assembled.

          I must look into this further. I always figured the second oil gallery to not be as good on oiling but, now it is time to investigate the setup on Gen I/II.

          The real truth is that the Gen III block has the priority main feed setup. This is one great addition to oiling. Unfortunately, with the Gen I/II the mains and cam bearings are fed via the 1st oil gallery. Using cam/lifter setup that requires more oil is going to reduce oilling to the cam and main/rod bearings.

          Realistically, the Gen III block is worth the money it costs just due to some of the upgrades added to it.

          Also, do not use the 2.8 and early 3.1 blocks for performance, some of them like I believe it is the 459 casting, will rip the deck off the block. Later Gen II 3.1's added support ribs to the outside of the block to helps this. (the ribs make an X on the sides of the block)

          So, with a Gen III block, you get additional strength added to the block, powder metal main caps (except #4), priority main feed oiling, cam sensor, additional oil tap locations (although, some removed), bolt bosses for the lifter retainer's, windage tray, cast aluminum oil pan that bolts to mains for structural support, front of block reinforced for NVH and structural rails added to the lifter valley. Need I go on?

          For just those benefits alone, it is worth the few hundred you may pay for a block.

          Also, if you think it would be nice to own the GM aluminum 660 block, here's an alternative. You can reproduce the weight-loss you would get by using aluminum by removing all of your A/C components. I did it, weighed in at 46LBS, the aluminum block weighs about 50 LBS less than cast iron so, this is the equivalent on weight. You may not get the strength but, you can at least get the weight savings by removing the most unnesessary part of the car, the A/C.

          Although, you can't reproduce the strength.

          -Dave
          If I seem Crazy it is because, I am insane. No lie. Ask my psychiatrist. But, i have good intentions. sometimes.

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          • #6
            Gen 1 blocks have the casting ribs. Its called a 3.4L (RPO L32) But still there is no way to run a hyd roller setup on a gen I/II block.

            Just run solid roller
            1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
            1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
            Because... I am, CANADIAN

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            • #7
              Ok, I thought even though the older 350's, 283's and stuff that werent roller can be converted, thought it might be possible with these engines also. I dunno, get the gen III block and you'll be set.......

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              • #8
                i would, but i need the rwd bellhousing.

                SO, with a gen 1 and gen 3 heads and topend, do i need different length pushrods? how is the length measured and determined?

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                • #9
                  The problem with the oiling and mechanical roller lifters is that on all 60 degrees (2.8/3.1/3.4/3100/3400) one bank is side oiled, one bank it through oiled. It has nothing to do with the block having or not having the 3 gallery style oiling. If you do not use the proper mechanical roller lifters (lifters with deep skirts), the roller section exposes the oil gallery on the side fed lifters (front, or 2,4,6 side what ever you want to refer to it as) and of course pukes all the oil pressure.

                  As for block strength, my block is a 1990 TGP block and I have no problems at all with the block, main caps, or anything else block related for that matter. Oh, and the 3.4 TDC windage tray should fit the 3.1 with no modifications.

                  You might be able to retro fit the 3100/3400 hydraulic roller lifters to the older 3.1 block, but the cam would be a little harder. The 3100/3400 has a thrust plate built into the block, which the 3.1 doesn't. The cams have different end bearing sections (the 3.1 cam has thicker end bearings) and the 3.1 and 3100 timing chain setups are also different. You can not use a flat tappet cam and grind it for use with roller lifters. Cast flat tappet cams are way too soft.
                  Curtis
                  91\' Turbo Z24
                  http://www.turboz24.com

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