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  • #61
    ewww thicker oil. Slows me down and makes my valves chatter

    How far did you port down when you did the 75mm TB? I doubt you got it all the way into the center of the plenum, but a funnel affect would have been created regardless so it still probably forces more air in.
    sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
    1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
    16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
    Original L82 Longblock
    with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
    Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

    Comment


    • #62
      i went in the length of the neck iirc, then it tapers back to the oval shape..

      so far the RP has quieted down my valvetrain noise, i'm going to drive it to work and back tomorrow and open it up a little to see what happens..
      Past Builds;
      1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
      1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
      Current Project;
      1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

      Comment


      • #63
        so you had valvetrain clatter as well?

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        • #64
          You're runing 13 sec quarter miles on a worked 3500 that a balance job and compression increase to around 11.5:1 might turn into 12.5 sec quarters on pump gas and Fiero owners are still turning to the 3800 SC, cadi 4.9 and 4.6 Nstar and small block chevy and still struggling to break into the 12s having spent as much or much more than the cost of building up a budget 3500. Cam, valve springs, DIY porting, home made headers and you have a performer.

          I don't understand why anyone would want to put a naturally aspirated 3800, or 3.4L in a Fiero with the aluminum head fwd engines available.

          One thing is certain, torque doesn't necessarily win races as much as it does get you out of the hole quick, after that the high end engine will pull longer and delay shifts, kind of like only needing to shift to second gear for a 0-60 run instead of third.

          You have to turbo that thing and if you do a "thing" is exactly what it would become. It's so efficient up top that 7 psi would probably take you all the way through 12s down into the 11s, unless as I mentioned before, it snatches the front end off.

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          • #65
            man o man..... as much as i'd liek to see dave's car in the mid 11's with a turbo, his cam is SOO not meant for that... Dave, how many degree's of overlap do you have? let's just build some headers and turbo my car instead i bet with 10psi i could touch 11's before i broke it.....

            Cammed 3400 --> 224whp 210wtq
            Cammed 3500 --> ???
            1 of 5 3500 J-Bodies

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            • #66
              Not to whip it out but yeah I had a 3400 that wound out to 7200 on an automatic W-Body which was years ago. With that said I am plenty familliar with it, not to discount the select few people on this board,(two members/pioneers of which are not really active right now) who have graciously helped me to get it there.

              The combination of beyond extra power and exceeding the operating range without a balance will cause failure and it could be any part. A couple 100 rpm the factory nominal and maximum engine speed would actually be enough to do it as you are now taxing the design. Swaping the rod/piston right there you've upset what balance you had and longevity to 100K is even less not there. Not to menion any structure flexing of any part that is happening at 7K under that load. With a balance not only will you run way smoother and keep the crank and rods from banging around in the bearings, you also gain more power and less spark trigger scatter. You would be right to do so. 2nd I never said you were running an HV HP pump, I said that if you were to it would NOT fix the problem nor would any oil or additive off the shelf. 3rd the cam bearings would've been good to check because that vibration does transfer, also the heavy valve springs loads up the cam bearings and you might've damaged those as well..

              But if this is all a toy and you aren't relying on it then it doesn't make a whole hell of a difference.
              Lorenzo
              '11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
              '92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster"

              Comment


              • #67
                Originally posted by gpse3400 View Post
                Not to whip it out but yeah I had a 3400 that wound out to 7200 on an automatic W-Body which was years ago. With that said I am plenty familliar with it, not to discount the select few people on this board,(two members/pioneers of which are not really active right now) who have graciously helped me to get it there.

                The combination of beyond extra power and exceeding the operating range without a balance will cause failure and it could be any part. A couple 100 rpm the factory nominal and maximum engine speed would actually be enough to do it as you are now taxing the design. Swaping the rod/piston right there you've upset what balance you had and longevity to 100K is even less not there. Not to menion any structure flexing of any part that is happening at 7K under that load. With a balance not only will you run way smoother and keep the crank and rods from banging around in the bearings, you also gain more power and less spark trigger scatter. You would be right to do so. 2nd I never said you were running an HV HP pump, I said that if you were to it would NOT fix the problem nor would any oil or additive off the shelf. 3rd the cam bearings would've been good to check because that vibration does transfer, also the heavy valve springs loads up the cam bearings and you might've damaged those as well..

                But if this is all a toy and you aren't relying on it then it doesn't make a whole hell of a difference.


                Aah.. i see what you were saying..

                I never swapped out the rod/piston.. I measured and checked the rod that spun the bearing and it was fine, there was minimal damage to the surface but after a very close inspection i went ahead and tossed a spare bearing into it and slapped it all back together. The crank journal surface cleaned up easially with some 1K grit sandpaper, i checked it for roundness and overall diameter and it was within spec as well. I cleaned out the oil hole for any debris and slapped it all back together with some good assembly lube.

                I'm going to drive it all weekend and most of next week to shake down any problems before it goes to the track on the 19th... Plus i want to empty the tank out so it's lighter on the track. my 13.08 run was on a full tank of gas



                Damon, with the 3500 manifolds you have an oppertunity to do one helluva turbo setup. If you buy all the parts we can build the setup on my car this winter then transfer it over to yours. Or i still have that spare 3400 block and Dustin's heads that could be tossed together on a stand if you want.

                Yes, no way i could boost the car on this cam.. 70.45 degrees of overlap. I'd need to get one of Ben's boost grinds.
                Past Builds;
                1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
                1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
                Current Project;
                1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

                Comment


                • #68
                  To quote the great Leslie Nielson..."Good luck, we are all counting on you." BTW N/A FTW
                  Lorenzo
                  '11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
                  '92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster"

                  Comment


                  • #69
                    Originally posted by Superdave View Post
                    Yes, no way i could boost the car on this cam.. 70.45 degrees of overlap. I'd need to get one of Ben's boost grinds.
                    It's not the camshaft overlap that serves as the main limiter for turbocharging, it's your exhaust flow efficiency with the turbo. On any given turbo platform, if you increase the exhaust flow efficiency thereby decreasing the exh/int pressure ratio, you can increase overlap or decrease the LSA.

                    Simply put, an exhaust pressure to intake pressure ratio under boost equivalent to 1:1 is neutral, you shouldn't blow an air-fuel charge out the exhaust and no exhaust should back up into the intake. This is the reason a supercharger camshaft is somewhat different than a turbo camshaft although both are pressurizing the engine, only one has the potential to directly affect exhaust flow.

                    A good header design and proper size turbine housing for the boost level and overlap will not be a problem. I have a video of a turbo mustang staging with what must have been at least a 1000 rpm swing up and down it had so much cam. The car nearly took the tree down it launched so hard as the torque twisted it towards the right lane.

                    It's about 3.5 mb in size I can send it if you'd like, it's one of my favorites.

                    Comment


                    • #70
                      Originally posted by Joseph Upson View Post

                      A good header design and proper size turbine housing for the boost level and overlap will not be a problem. I have a video of a turbo mustang staging with what must have been at least a 1000 rpm swing up and down it had so much cam. The car nearly took the tree down it launched so hard as the torque twisted it towards the right lane.

                      It's about 3.5 mb in size I can send it if you'd like, it's one of my favorites.
                      Send me that shizzz.... PM sent.
                      Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

                      Comment


                      • #71
                        Me too. (my name) at gmail dawt com! Thanks!
                        sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                        1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                        16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                        Original L82 Longblock
                        with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                        Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                        Comment


                        • #72
                          Gots it! tanks!
                          Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

                          Comment


                          • #73
                            My valvetrain is somewhat noisy too... I think it may be due to running fully stock lifters tho, I'm not sure. And it may also just be piston chatter... I hate 3400's piston slap.

                            Got Lope?
                            3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                            Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                            Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                            12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

                            Comment


                            • #74
                              That is because your cam is very aggressive and you are moving the valvetrain quicky. There is really nothing you can do about that, short of noise abatement or just not running a cam with such an aggressive profile. Reasons for the factory not to use agressive cams other than the engine idling bad(to the avereage person) and expelling a higher amount of emmission, is the valvetrain clatter that cannot be masked. It is not detrimental. just something you have to deal with.
                              Last edited by gpse3400; 09-13-2008, 03:06 PM.
                              Lorenzo
                              '11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
                              '92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster"

                              Comment


                              • #75
                                i've got some icky valvetrain noise too. nothing i'm too worried about, but it's shitty going downtown and i can hear it loudly when i pass parked cars..... going to switch to some 10w40 oil i think on my next oil change(5w30 right now, only 2k miles into my first full-length oil change so far)

                                Dave- i never even thought about your car being down for the winter..... that'd be some sweet shit right there. but i only have one set of flanges for those manifolds. i think it'll probably be N/A for long enough that i'll just make up my n/a downpipes and exhaust with them :P

                                Cammed 3400 --> 224whp 210wtq
                                Cammed 3500 --> ???
                                1 of 5 3500 J-Bodies

                                Comment

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