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Coming Soon: Higher Ratio Rockers

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  • geldartb
    replied
    when i swapped the springs with the heads on the engine.

    i did it with the particular cyl i was working on at TDC and had my handy magnetic pickup

    holding the valve and by the off chance that it did fall into the cyl its not going

    completely in, it still sits in the valve guide so its save able.


    FYI dont buy the tool like i pictured from sears that POS was ready to fall apart like 4 springs away from me finishing, i barely finished.
    when i was done that hunk of crap went back to sears.

    i have a C clamp style one but thats only good with the head off the car. ill be getting a better quality one like i pictured this time around.

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  • gectek
    replied
    Plus you cant just "finger tighten them" like in the picture...i had some that were stuck and didnt tap them first and almost ripped a hole in my hand when i slipped...they do work but not well. Make sure to use an air hold fixture too...it thread in the spark plug hole, hooks up to shop air, and pressurizes the cyl to keep the valves seated...of course make sure to do it at TDC of the compression

    Leave a comment:


  • 3400-95-Modified
    replied
    I used the tool brendan pictured because its much easier in my opinion... I don't mind the fulcrum style, but sometimes they are a bear, and also I don't know of 8mm studs to use, only the 10's unless of course you make your own with just a threaded rod or something...

    Leave a comment:


  • SappySE107
    replied
    Yeah, and if you get a regular rocker stud, you can use the fulcrum style to compress the springs. I don't care for the style in the pic you posted but they do work.

    Leave a comment:


  • geldartb
    replied
    you can change springs without pulling the heads.

    use something like this


    if you use the C clamp style then you have to pull the head.

    Leave a comment:


  • IsaacHayes
    replied
    Nothing wrong with better springs, but I was just referring to the post above that talked about a cam being daunting possibly. I think sliding in a cam would be easier than messing with springs under tension, lol. Can you change springs without pulling the motor? Or is there not enough room?

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  • zofo61
    replied
    How bout 3500 heads LS6 springs / 3400 bottom.....boosted with the RSM kit? What would you recommend with that combo,........ Ben?

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  • SappySE107
    replied
    I would recommend stiffer springs with better coil bind properties for anything that isn't stock. Stock springs are a bit pathetic.

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  • gectek
    replied
    i really dont see any prob with that??? isnt that what we all do anyway?

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  • IsaacHayes
    replied
    But these will require stiffer than stock springs though.

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  • Azrael
    replied
    I'm looking forward to these too. I don't have the mechanical confidence to change a cam but higher ratio rockers are the next best thing.

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  • rsisbetter
    replied
    nice! bolt-in ftw! i can say, count on me...once my crane golds fail that is! judging by the crane gold's past reputation, it shouldnt take long. haha.

    unless somone wants to buy my crane gold's, then you can put me down for a set!

    Leave a comment:


  • SappySE107
    replied
    Pushrod length depends on the cam. These rockers shoudln't require anything but installation.

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  • gectek
    replied
    well i will try to keep prices down as much as possible, but i dont think that they higher ratios will cost much more than the lower ones...ie 1.8 price wouldnt be far off from the 1.6 price, but there will be some, they take more engineering and material to a point...

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  • FallenZ24
    replied
    I deffinately will get a set. I just was hoping to save a little money if possible. The stock cam with .484 lift would be quite nice for a turbo setup. I guess I need to start saving $20 a week. Haha!

    Also, will these rockers require custom pushrods?

    -Joseph

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