Cammed with no power

[2.8RS]

Which one would be the best as there are a few if I am not mistaken. I have been hearing that the Holley AFPRs go bad real fast.

[ForcedFirebird]

Which one would be the best as there are a few if I am not mistaken. I have been hearing that the Holley AFPRs go bad real fast.

I've also heard they are good? They are hit and miss like any others, I used an ebay in-line AFPR with no problems.

[2.8RS]

Just got back from running errands and the car runs and drives much better. Now the car will pull a lot harder in the upper RPMs than before. The bottom end feels about like stock power but now it has much more of a top end its crazy.

[ForcedFirebird]

Just got back from running errands and the car runs and drives much better. Now the car will pull a lot harder in the upper RPMs than before. The bottom end feels about like stock power but now it has much more of a top end its crazy.

Any changes you made?

[2.8RS]

I just readjusted the rockers. One turn past zero lash instead of 1.5 like the first time. The car isn't as rumbly as it was before. I'm still going to look at the cam timing this weekend. The car will continue to pull to the redline too but it seems that the middle RPMs are a little weak.

[Joseph Upson]

I just readjusted the rockers. One turn past zero lash instead of 1.5 like the first time. The car isn't as rumbly as it was before. I'm still going to look at the cam timing this weekend. The car will continue to pull to the redline too but it seems that the middle RPMs are a little weak.

You live in my old stomping ground, I lived just off of Tram Road not far down from the Fair Grounds, Tram road was a nice long quiet road that I've seen 3 figures on the speedo on a few times.

Whenever possible the best way to set valve lash is with the engine running when you can. You probably shouldn't have increased your LSA over stock with a naturally aspirated engine, usually causes a peak power loss. It is also possible you got the wrong cam in the right box. Popping through the intake after a cam install for me turned out to be an exhaust rocker nut backing off.

Whatever the final verdict, poor braking ability is the sign of to much duration be it in the cam lobe or the cam install position. I have to keep my idle up with a 216/213 grind or else from time to time I get a hard brake pedal.

[2.8RS]

I'm off of Baum so not to far from where you were. The brakes are fine now and no more popping. The cam is lightly used from the guy that I bought it from who was doing an NA build with nitrous I believe. The problem was in the valve adjustment but I am going to go back and check the cam timing.

[Joseph Upson]

I'm off of Baum so not to far from where you were. The brakes are fine now and no more popping. The cam is lightly used from the guy that I bought it from who was doing an NA build with nitrous I believe. The problem was in the valve adjustment but I am going to go back and check the cam timing.

used cams are very risky if the lifters aren't replaced or the used ones matched to the original lobes. Some may not think the break in period is all that crucial, but having ruined a brand new cam due to initial break in interruptions I'm here to tell you it is crucial. Rollers and aluminum heads all the way, I'm not looking back.

[TurboGTU]

Thise guys are right, Sounds like your cam is off synch or you have bad preload on the lifters.

The procidurer to brake a cam in on thise motors is to use brake in lube, prime the system by cranking it over without the fuel or spark connected untill you get oil pressure. Kinda hard to get crank oil splash on the cam when thise motors don't allow it. If you don't prime the system, you'll kill the cam quick.

[2.8RS]

The cam had lube put on it and was turned over many times when I was adjusting the rockers and trying to get the dizzy in the right spot. The lifters were also soaked for a few hours in oil before install.

[gectek]

yes thats all well and good, but you need to use something more than break in lube. you should use either light weight 10-30 rotella or delo, or some type of special additive that the better cam companies sell that is an oil additive that says it is specially formulated with the extra additives to break in a cam. no regular cam lube will do that. if you did not do that, you could be in deep doo doo very soon...

[Joseph Upson]

The cam had lube put on it and was turned over many times when I was adjusting the rockers and trying to get the dizzy in the right spot. The lifters were also soaked for a few hours in oil before install.

How did you proceed with the break in after install which would be necessary on a used cam if you installed new lifters to match the taper of the lobes?

[2.8RS]

I let the car idle for about 20 minutes.

[geoffinbc]

I doubt the break in was a major problem. The majority of break in problems everyone reads about in magazines is due to large spring pressure combined with an oil that lacks anti wear additives. But if you did not use new lifters you may have trouble. Or if you were able to get all the used ones back on the same lobe then break in should not be an issue.

You most likely found the cause of your problem when you re adjusted your rockers. Cam timing may be an issue but if you are a full tooth off it will really run like crap. All you had to do to time the cam is install it with the dots in a straight like up or down or facing each other it really does not matter as long as it is straight. The other problem you may have run into is timing. Make sure your bypass the ESC when you set your timing. Otherwise it will be severely retarded.

[torq455]

you are supposed to keep the rpm up around 1500 or more for about 30 mins. that ensures plenty of oil is splashing on the cam keeping it cool and lubricated.