IAT Question

[PCGUY112887]

If your getting a reading of a 51*C as your max IAT temp after driving aggressively on the backroads when it's about 85*F outside, would you consider that a too hot of reading? This is on my GP, so I do have unwrapped headers in the engine bay.

[1988GTU]

123.8F... Where is your sensor located? If it's right above the header/crossover then that is normal from being heat soaked.
I don't even see those temps, so I would look into some thermal wrap or jet hot.

[sprucegagt]

51*C! Yeah that's a little to hot. You can wrap the headers or go with Jet Hot but it still won't fix the problem. You need to move the IAT away from the header crossover. I take it yours is located right above the crossover? Even after moving it, your temps will still get hot when idling in traffic. But as soon as you get moving your temps will drop to ambient pretty quick.

[Superdave]

wrap or coat those headers ASAP... also wrap the intake tubing

[PCGUY112887]

Everywhere I read told me to not wrap the headers, that header wrap was a bad idea to use since it caused the pipe too much heat stress and blah blah it was "bad" for it.

My intake tubing is totally stock, actually my whole intake is stock aside from some holes drilled in the side of the airbox.

I need to figure out a good way to do an intake without cutting into my fenderwell...

I did some driving today and IAT's only went up into the 40's C, it was about 82*F outside today.

[IsaacHayes]

The holes in the side depending where its at will draw in hot air. Your IAT is in the top lid of the box right? On my box I can put a hole there where the side thatfaces the TB is but it DOES draw hot air unless you run a duct tube down below.

[PCGUY112887]

Nah, my IAT is in the middle of my hose going to my TB... right over the header crossover. What if I used some header wrap on my crossover... and somehow moved my IAT. I've always wanted to put on a different intake hose (a solid pipe) but without modding my fender well I think I want to stick with my stock airbox.

Honestly I don't know how I could get more airflow or better IAT temps any other way. I drilled holes in my stock airbox because I thought that the air inlet hole (behind the headlights, good cool air stock) was restricting my engine, but after drilling holes I saw 0 change in max MAF values from before, so it doesn't seem that my engine outflows my airbox.

Maybe I could get the exhaust shop to bend a piece of pipe to reach from my throttle body to my airbox... where could I get grommets for the sensors? What kind of insulation would work best?

[Superdave]

you can get grommets at any parts store in the "help" section..


I'd upgrade from the stock air box, a nice 3" intake with a propperly sized cone filter should help it out. Then you can wrap the whole intake in header wrap.

[IsaacHayes]

I hear autozone (or ebay) has aluminum charge pipes for intakes and such as well as couplers.

I plan to do something similar because I'm keeping my stock (modified) air box as well and the rubber tube is too long to go between the box and the 3500 plenum with an LX5 TB on there. I may however try to find a OBDII rubber tube since those are shorter for the MAF and see if that is the right length.

For IAT, and CCbreather, just get some rubber grommets and put it in the metal pipe.

I measured the snorkel end of my air box and it was like 1.5" or something. But after I opened up the bottom resonator T (it can draw air from the 3" hole in the fender) and added up the surface areas, including where it all attaches to the box the surface area was a little under 65mm maybe 62 I can't remember. With a 3" hole in the side of my box (closed off until I can get a tube to draw cold air there) it will flow plenty for even a high power motor. I just figured that if the stock opening is less in size than even the 52mm stock TB, it's a restriction!!

You could try that silver bubble wrap looking insulation... That will reflect heat and insulate as well. Not sure if it would melt though.

[PCGUY112887]

you can get grommets at any parts store in the "help" section..


I'd upgrade from the stock air box, a nice 3" intake with a propperly sized cone filter should help it out. Then you can wrap the whole intake in header wrap.

But if I have it just come off to a 3" cone, won't it just suck in tons of hot air from my engine bay? I really didn't want to move my battery/cut my fenderwell so there went the only "good" option with an open cone.

[Azrael]

I coated my intake pipe with a generic high-heat ceramic paint and it seems to help keep it insulated. You do get some heat soak with an open filter in the engine bay while sitting in traffic. But I think some people exaggerate the power lost from it a little.

[asylummotorsports]

Is it just me in my old fart stupor, or wasn't there an article on here a year or so ago about just how useless the IAT is in any event?

How you could put the damn thing about anywhere you wanted, and they were so inconsistent it was a joke.

Mine is strapped to my throttle cable somewhat near the intake, and it seems to run just fine.

But there are stories about Ice Baths, extended wires to the radiator support area and the like.

And don't forget the infamous resistor that has been addressed on here already.

IMHO the damn thing is just an PITA on a modified engine. I have moved it around with total disregard to it's purpose, and my car runs just fine.

And if you are seeing stupid hot temps, then you are likely very LEAN!

But then I'm OBD-1, and I have now exhausted everything I know about this.

[IsaacHayes]

Well the power loss from the butt-dyno is extreme with my car and a WAI. And the intake temps I logged prove it. It takes a long time of highway to drop it down, it doesn't happen right away.

The IAT does help with timing, so if you are drawing in hot air, but have the IAT cool, you could get some ping and thus KR.

Mine seems to respond fast. The speed depends on the design, the open element ones like my car have react very fast. The solid metal ones not so much.

If you are going open element filter, find a way to route it to the fender or run it down low below the heat and watch out for puddles. You can try an open filter and I bet you'll notice the drop in power and throttle response. When my car heats up with a WAI it is just a dog.

[asylummotorsports]

Are we talking about the same thing?

That little sensor thingy that came in the stock intake tube?

I have had that thing everywhere the wire will reach, and I have NEVER seen a measuable difference in the way my car runs!

Is it possible it has been disabled? Or just broken?

My car doesn't have an EGR at all, welded shut, no code, but am I missing something here?

Whatever I do to that thing doesn't change anything.

[1988GTU]

I know with my setup IF the temps get too hot it WILL retard timing. Back when it was stock it was not noticeable, now it is.