Home made ram air system?

[1995 Gold Ciera]

Has anybody done this to a 3100 Cutlass? Also, what is the piece of screen like metal up near the MAF? Does it help or hinder airflow?

[TiredGXP]

The screen is there to promote laminar airflow as the air passes over the maf sensor wires. The theory is that laminar airflow provides more consistent MAF readings.

Doesn't hurt airflow, as the restriction is insignificant. Many factory MAF's do not have the screen. I chose to leave it alone.

[IanSzgatti]

It would appear with these MAFs, you can remove the screen without really serious concequences. As mentioned, the screen is to provide consistant readings, but at 4500 rpm the computer only needs to hear "holy fuck theres a lot of air coming in".

At one point I read 110 g p/s, but didnt note the exact rpm as I kinda wanted to watch the road too.
On the ram air topic though. It would be benificial to have a cool source, so alter the plumbing any way you see fit so long as you have cool air... I wouldnt worry about trying to ram any air, it's only good to cool the engine bay at speed if you have a cone filter... example:
I noted 27 degrees Celcius @ 75 KPH, and 50 C after idling a few minutes. It took a good few minutes for the IAT to read below 35 C again.
Trying to ram the air into the intake with sheer wind power is kind of useless as tits on a mule.

The best thing is to upgrade your intake manifolds, use a 56mm or larger TB, and alter the intake plumbing, MAF configuration.

Personally, I liked the 3300 in the cutlass better

[1995 Gold Ciera]

Interesting. Thanks for the input. I thought it would be best to ask before screwing something up.

As it stands right now, I am looking to buy the parts soon for the intake swap and possibly have a custom dual exhaust fabricated for a nicer sound and look.

I'm still at a toss up as to which one to do first.

See my thread here if you want.....

http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40634

[IanSzgatti]

let me just further point out the your stock exhaust will still be adequte if you spend the money on a high flow cat converter before two mufflers... if you spend you doh in that area your feel it in the throttle rather than just hear noise in your ears. If air comes in quicker it should get out just as fast.

[1995 Gold Ciera]

I would most likely have the it done from the cats back (cats included).

Before a intake swap, what kind of gain will I get with a performance cat, y pipe, performance mufflers and dual exhaust?

[TiredGXP]

Yeah, "ram air" is kind of a myth. All the performance benefit is from less restrictive ducting and bringing in cooler outside air. I kind of laugh everytime I see a pic of a cone filter sitting in an engine bay without an airbox or some cold air ducting system.

I ran some numbers on air density chages with temperature last year, here's the chart:



There are measurable gains to cylinder airmass (g/cyl) from cold air. I ran a few logs last winter on a -30C day and obtained .84g/cyl airmass @WOT versus the normal summer reading of .68g/cyl. Lowering the temperature of intake air by even 10 degrees can yield several percent increase in airmass and power.

[Z26-T]

Personally, Ram air is useless on a transverse mounted engine for intake air. It will cool UIM/under hood temps, but for the time, money, and effort to fab one into your hood, you're better off with 3400 upper/lower intakes and a bigger TB for air flow. Get a cold air intake filter system that goes into your bumper and just avoid big puddles of water . Unless you like hydrolockage.

The metal screen doesn't restrict air flow really at all, so there is no point to remove it. I like it because it stops big chunks that may pass your air filter, or chunks if your air filter comes apart on you.

[IanSzgatti]

reading that last post gives me a feeling like I should have to be so cautious, take the rush out of trial and error! ....but really in all truth you can use your stock filter still with modified plumbing... those bigger intakes and the cool air would be just adequate for the amount of fuel the computer can add... remove the MAF screen, even though it's there to protect, it is a physical measurable mass in the way of your air, and further the stock air filter filters to the micron level... aint no damn twigs gettin through that.
Just get that intake plumbing at some cool air... Trust me, I'm WAY peppier than a stock 99 3100.
Cat-back exhaust is a perfect idea... just get that cat opened up. All your gains will be felt in the upper RPM range, so be sure your oil is always up and clean before you start beating the shit of of the motor. I noticed these motors love to be abused as long as you pamper them.

[1995 Gold Ciera]

I was thinking of trying to run some ducting down from the air box to behind the opening in the front bumper. The only thing is that if I'm putting more bends in it that's just going to decrease airflow even more. My engine compartment is like yours IanSzgatti, as my battery is on the driver's side so there's nowhere to go to the side.

[IanSzgatti]

It's interesting you got a Ciera with the 3100. Mine had the 3300.

Honestly one of the best cars I ever owned. Those 185/75/14 tires are like little pizza cutters, easy to chirp. As a note, that cars looks cooler with 175/60/14's.

Anyways, I remember my ciera and it's 3300 air box, but i'd like to see a picture of the 3100 in your engine bay..

[1995 Gold Ciera]

This 3400 is pretty close but the the airbox is cylindrical in my car and sits immediately to the left of the battery. There is a plastic tube the comes out of it and stops right behind the headlight. This tube is widest at the airbox at approx. 3 in and narrow to about 1 3/4 in behind the light. One of my thoughts was to simply cut most of this tube off so the opening to the airfilter box is larger.