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still unclear on 3500 HP rods

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  • still unclear on 3500 HP rods

    Ok i know they are the same length as the 3400 at 5.7", and you can use the SBC 5.7 forged rods for them as long as you shave the big end down...right. or since the rod journals are bigger on the 3500 do you have to use big journal rods on the 3500 crank, or is it the only option to have the 3500 crank turned down.

    Also on the 3500 crank issue, using it to make a stroker crank on the 3400 by offset grinding, since the ring on the middle crank throw is different, how do you compensate for it?

  • #2
    The 3500 rods are 5.9"
    Links:
    WOT-Tech.com
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    • #3
      well i just read in the engine tech article that it was 5.7 so that is where i got that from...well i guess youd just have to be happy with shot peened stock rods, they are supposed to be powdered steel or something like that anyway

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      • #4
        x2, they are 5.9".
        Past Builds;
        1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
        1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
        Current Project;
        1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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        • #5
          ok, well then i guess i read the article wrong or it isnt updated yet...we are talking about the LX9 not the vvt 3500 right

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          • #6
            Right, they went to a longer rod and shortened the piston, which leads back to the V8 piston issues I mentioned in the PM. When you get into offset grinding the crank to fit the smaller rod journals (2" vs 2.25"). We have all the engine specs on the site here (i hope).
            Ben
            60DegreeV6.com
            WOT-Tech.com

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            • #7
              The engine tech article hasn't been updated (well, I did a minute ago) for the 3500 rods. Hence your confusion.
              -Brad-
              89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
              sigpic
              Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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              • #8
                yes or in goku's case just FUZION!!!
                yah its a bad DBZ joke oh well

                but the marks on the middle of the crank for the CKP sensor, they are different from the 3400 to the 3500 LX9 right, so how do you compensate?
                I know this has been discussed in extended discussions, but its still kind of unclear to me. What exactly has to be done to use the 3500 crank in the 3400 block...

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                • #9
                  External crank trigger, machine the crank for the notches, or new internal crank trigger wheel (the 56x trigger can slide off the crank, and a new one can be slid on). One of the issues with a new internal is that the CKP sensor would need to be backed out of the block via a spacer the same thickness as the new trigger wheel is tall. And then you also have to make sure its installed properly to ensure proper triggering.
                  -Brad-
                  89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
                  sigpic
                  Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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                  • #10
                    ok i see the pressing on and correct orientation of the signal ring and spacing of the sensor to be the best way to do that. how would the best way to achieve the sensor spacing, a plastic bushing with an o ring to slide in the sensor bore and have a bore on the side to use a long metric bolt to bolt to bolt the sensor to the bushing and the bushing to the block. i knew about the TCE external crank setup, but for some who are limited on space that might not be the easiest thing to do.

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