Crane 1.6 rockers gone bad!

[geldartb]

if my cranes fail, that would be the next option, and they are cheaper.

Original Series Roller Rockers, Fits 1955 to 1999 262-400 SB Chevrolet. Set of 16 Roller rockers with 3/8 Stud, 1.65:1 Ratio

Part# S1003
those are the ones that work with these engines.

[AaronGTR]

Why are you using shorter pushrods? .That doesn't make any sense. Got any other specs on that cam, like LSA and duration at seat to seat and .050. Nothing to do with your rockers, i just wanna know:P

I doubt you needed shorter pushrods with that setup. Also, if you adjusted them for 0 lash, did you make sure the plunger on the lifter wasn't pushed down? They will move a little if you don't watch it, and this will throw your preload off. I don't know if this will wear out a rocker like you are seeing, but it can throw off the tuning with each cylinder being different due to the hydraulic action varying between cylinders.

I'm only using shorter pushrods because smith brothers screwed up. I had to order heat treated chromoly ones to work with the guide plates. Their order form wasn't very clear on how to give them the proper measurement, so I called the guy up and measured them with him on the phone. He told me to just tell him the diameter and the total length from end to end including the ball, and he'd make sure I got the right length... and they ended up sending me ones that were just under 1/16" shorter. Rather than send them back and waiting several more weeks for new ones, I decided to test fit a pair and see where they lined up. With the set height on the stock pedestal mount rockers I knew that would never work, but with floating rockers it is possible for it to be ok since the height of the rocker can change, just as long as the roller tip stays inside the acceptable area on the valve stem throughout the range of travel. It seemed like it was staying inside the middle third of the stem so I went ahead and used 'em.

As for the pre-load on the lifters, I don't know if it was right or not... I just know I went by the directions and went very slowly and carefully and checked and rechecked them. I couldn't have gotten them any better by myself. Since some are worn and some aren't, it does seem to me though like maybe the worn ones weren't getting enough oil? Either I didn't adjust them right or I have some bad lifters. Do you think I should get new lifters to be safe?

Coincidentally, I got my oil analysis back already. It showed 2-3 times the average amount of aluminum, chromium, iron, copper, molybdenum, and boron. They said it could be from new parts breaking in. Most likely it's from that AND the rockers. The rockers had 2k miles on them when I added the cam, and another 5,500 since then. The oil sample had 4k miles on it. I added the cam, a billet crank pulley, switched from LS1 to LS2 springs, added comp titanium retainers, and bigger injectors all at that time. Take your pick as to which is the culprit. For all I know it could the the billet crank pulley allowing some kind of harmonic distortion to be transmitted to the valve train (and I'm even thinking of putting the stock pulley back on).

The sample also showed high silicone content which they said could be from sealers if the engine was opened up recently, or could be from inadequate filtration. It's probably both since I run a K&N filter. Good thing is they didn't find any fuel dilution, antifreeze, or moisture, and the viscosity was good.

Anyway that's about everything I can think of right now. Back to your question about the cam, the spec card they gave me said LSA 112, intake duration 214.3, exhaust duration 220.5 . I think there's actually a scanned copy of the whole thing in a thread around here somewhere.

[AaronGTR]

Original Series Roller Rockers, Fits 1955 to 1999 262-400 SB Chevrolet. Set of 16 Roller rockers with 3/8 Stud, 1.65:1 Ratio

Part# S1003
those are the ones that work with these engines.

Who says they work with these engines? Last time I checked no one had tried them yet. I've been paying attention, and several people have talked about several different kinds of rockers that "might" work, but I haven't seen anyone try them yet and verify it. There was lots of talk about the SBC rockers, but there was some question as to whether the distance from the pivot point to the tip of valve was the same and that they might not work. At the time no one was willing to waste money buying a set to experiment with.

As for me, I was only the second person to try these crane rockers and look how that turned out. I now have $430 worth of scrap aluminum! I've seen the stock rockers get split so I'd like something stronger, something with a more precise ratio, and something with a roller tip... but I don't have the time or money to play the guinea pig anymore. I'm not buying any other rockers until someone can prove they work and they last. Until then I'm just going to get some stronger pushrods (and make sure they are stock length this time) to make sure they don't have any flex with the cam and springs I'm using, and hope the stock rockers don't die on me.

[ForcedFirebird]

I quickly test fit these from Summit, but I need the proper adapting studs to check for accurately. I bought them used for $100 because one got trashed on the guy's small block (I now have 3 extras, lol)...

http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t87/forcedfirebird/Hybrid%20Build/?action=view&current=100_3546.jpg

[923.4v6]

has anyone tried this style of rockers http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-C...QQcmdZViewItem

[Alxsmt]

i really hope mine dont do that!!! i would be pissed.

y so many miles on the oil? espically after changing so many parts

[powerdoctor]

Comp rockers won't work. AaronGTR, can you take some pictures of the bottom of your rockers? I'm not sure if it's your picture or not but something looks wrong.

Whatever ......

It looks "wrong" because they are ADJUSTABLE !!!!

They have guide plates and poly locks "weed hopper" ....

And if he use's the new " big block chevy conversion studs " they are 10mm to bolt into his head and 3/8 on top for his rockers, which means he can run any damn rocker he want's .....

Or he can have the heads re-tapped for 3/8 screw in studs...

Either way, you are wrong .....

[ForcedFirebird]

Whatever ......

It looks "wrong" because they are ADJUSTABLE !!!!

They have guide plates and poly locks "weed hopper" ....

And if he use's the new " big block chevy conversion studs " they are 10mm to bolt into his head and 3/8 on top for his rockers, which means he can run any damn rocker he want's .....

Or he can have the heads re-tapped for 3/8 screw in studs...

Either way, you are wrong .....

re-tapping for 3/8's is not a good idea. With the threads being a few thousands different, I wouldn't trust a re-thread, that would be worse than a heli-coil.

There are plenty of suppliers who offer the conversion studs from both the 8mm and 10mm pockets to 3/8". One of them being WOT (no-bananas, lmao).

[AaronGTR]

i really hope mine dont do that!!! i would be pissed.

y so many miles on the oil? espically after changing so many parts

7500 miles total on the rockers, 5500 on the new cam... 4000 on the oil. That means I changed the oil after 1500 on the new cam for a break in period, just to be safe. And 4000 miles isn't a lot on mobil 1 5W30 full synthetic. You are supposed to be able to run it for 5000+ miles. It really depends though on how high your TBN is (additives to neutralize acids), and the particulate contamination (amount of silicon and metals in the oil), as to how long it is safe to run the oil.

[geoffinbc]

Do you have the rockers out yet to check for damage? Is it possible the flakes of metal are from the parts that are being broken in? Just a shot in the dark.

I have had my Crane rockers on for 6 years now and they are quiet as a mouse and last I checked they were all good.

[WrathOfSocrus]

Whatever ......

It looks "wrong" because they are ADJUSTABLE !!!!

They have guide plates and poly locks "weed hopper" ....

And if he use's the new " big block chevy conversion studs " they are 10mm to bolt into his head and 3/8 on top for his rockers, which means he can run any damn rocker he want's .....

Or he can have the heads re-tapped for 3/8 screw in studs...

Either way, you are wrong .....

I'm pretty sure you can only use a narrow body roller rocker made for the center bolt style valve cover '88+ SBC. The valves on the gen 2 and 3 motors are splayed out. Using a large body SBC or BBC rocker will contact each other near the valve end. Even using the narrow body rockers only leaves a relatively small gap between the rockers.

I quickly test fit these from Summit, but I need the proper adapting studs to check for accurately. I bought them used for $100 because one got trashed on the guy's small block (I now have 3 extras, lol)...

http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t...t=100_3546.jpg

Those look a lot like the scorpion racing rockers without the scorpion on it.
I know the descriptions are a bit messed up at times with this place, but somehow I ended up with what I wanted :

Scorpion Rockers on Ebay

I picked up a set of 16 rockers 1.6:1 ratio. I read around and have heard nothing but good things about these. I too have yet to pick up the adjustable 3/8 studs but from what I can see they fit without issue. With the comp roller tip rockers being pretty expensive and no roller fulcrum, and the crane gold race ones costing more than I wanted to spend, these rockers plus the studs end up about $250 plus shipping. I can't justify spending more than that on my lowly 3.1 build!

EDIT : You also have make sure you don't get the self centering ones and use gen 2 pushrod guides. I went to the Scorpion racing website to figure out their part number and then went to the Ebay store. They use a 6 in place of the 1 for the first number, but the last 3 digits correspond exactly to the Scorpion site. Had to do a little footwork to make sure I got the right part the first time

[Monzsta]

If the pushrod length is incorrect, you will be forced to "adjust" the rocker in a manner that never allows the oil hole in the pushrod tip to line up with the oiling hole in the pushrod socket, closing off any feediing oil to the trunion bearing, and oil to the top end, in particular.

This is what I'd be looking for.

[SappySE107]

Did you have to grind 4 of the rockers to clear the lower intake? I can't tell but your rocker looks to be sitting lower than mine. I took 2 pics to show you what the stock cam/pushrods look like with the rocker.

You cannot run just any rocker. Has to be narrow body, as was explained (just verifying).

[923.4v6]

I can't tell but your rocker looks to be sitting lower than mine.

I'd say if his pushrods is 1/16" to short then the rocker is sitting 1/16" lower to get the same preload as you have and he would have ran a chance of wearing out his valve guides due to the rocker not in the center of the valve stem.

[AaronGTR]

Do you have the rockers out yet to check for damage? Is it possible the flakes of metal are from the parts that are being broken in? Just a shot in the dark.

I have had my Crane rockers on for 6 years now and they are quiet as a mouse and last I checked they were all good.

Don't have them out yet. Didn't have time last night after work. Gonna try and do it tonight. My rockers definitely aren't quiet though. They never really where. Even when I first installed them they were louder than stock, and now there is a definite clacking noise.

If the pushrod length is incorrect, you will be forced to "adjust" the rocker in a manner that never allows the oil hole in the pushrod tip to line up with the oiling hole in the pushrod socket, closing off any feediing oil to the trunion bearing, and oil to the top end, in particular.

This is what I'd be looking for.

Well, the pushrod length was off, but I don't think it would be off enough to cause something like that. I'll definitely look at that and check, but it seemed when I turned the engine by hand that the holes should be crossing each other. Don't know how I can find out for sure though.

Did you have to grind 4 of the rockers to clear the lower intake? I can't tell but your rocker looks to be sitting lower than mine. I took 2 pics to show you what the stock cam/pushrods look like with the rocker.

Yes, four of the rockers I ground off about 1/8" radius on the top edge of the nose, as well as grinding the LIM for clearance. For some reason I had a lot more trouble gaining enough clearance to keep them from contacting the LIM than the first person did.