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  • New to engine rebuilds

    Hi everyone. I found this site like 30 minutes ago and I am amazed that there is a forum for my type engine. Everyone I talk to elsewhere says 'throw your engine away and get a V8'. Ha. Anyways, I just got into a car accident, ripped the quarter panel on the driver side and I decided it was time to get a new car. So I'm going to be getting some little commuter car, like a civic or a corolla or something. My plans for my '90 Firebird v6 are a little more ambitious. I've never really done an engine rebuild, but I figure the only way to learn is to get in there and do it, so as soon as I get my new civic or whatever, I'll immediately proceed to ripping my engine out and doing all kinds of cool stuff with it. The problem is, I don't know what kinds of cool stuff I could do. I recently read that the 3.1 is a stroked 2.8 - does that mean there's no room for improvement? And my heads are iron right? If I wanted to have a machine shop bore my cylinders, what sizes would be supported by everything else? That is, can I bore my 3.1 to a 3.4? I'm planning on replacing almost everything except the block - with 226,000 miles and a previous owner who was car clueless I expect lots of things to be worn or scratched or out of round or whatever. Where should I start? If I can stroke it, will I have to replace my crank shaft? How much room do I have? Can I grind my current one down or is that a stupid question? Assuming money and time isn't an issue, what else can I do? New heads, camshaft, upper end? What have other people done? Try to talk to me like I'm a retard, because like I said, I'm brand new to this whole thing. But I have plenty of time to do it right, so I need to know what I should start looking at. Do I need a new transmission? Can I put a blower on it? What kind of blower is more feasible for this engine? I hear turbo, why not supercharger? How about twin turbo? What can this engine handle? How much play do I have with it? If you were replacing lots of stuff on the engine, what would be the first thing to replace so everything else can be built around it? I don't know, I just want to make this car something I can be proud of. Next time someone asks me about my car, I don't want to say with a drawn face that it's just the V6. I want to tell them it's a just a V6 and then dust them at the red lights. I'm trying to break into the super mechanical realm - where do I start?

  • #2
    90' Firebird 'eh? Check out this thread:


    If you're doing that much, just swap in the 3.4L block from a 93-95 and build on that instead.
    Last edited by Canyonero; 04-03-2008, 03:26 PM.
    '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
    '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
    '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
    '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

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    • #3
      If I pull everything apart and the 3.1 is not in as good condition as I want, I'll probably end up switching the blocks out. The thing about it though is that I'm trying to retain the block for sentimental reasons. I know it's retarded, but I'd like to think that when I rebuild from the bottom, there is still a little piece of what we (me and the car) used to have. That mofo has delivered pizza for 4 years! I put 80,000 miles on that sumbitch doing that. But I've been toying with the idea of putting a new engine in. If I'm going to do that though, what's the advantage of the 3.4 over an 8 cylinder?

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      • #4
        Better handling, gas mileage, and the 3.4 is reliable. It also makes decent power for what it is.
        00 Grand Prix GTP Daytona

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        • #5
          Originally posted by zeusalmighty View Post
          The thing about it though is that I'm trying to retain the block for sentimental reasons. I know it's retarded, but I'd like to think that when I rebuild from the bottom, there is still a little piece of what we (me and the car) used to have.
          Hah, well then what is the rest of the car for? I have no sentimental attachment to the 2.8L I yanked from my Trooper, but I have extreme attachment to the rest. I'm giving my old 2.8L to a friend who lost his, so it's going to another Trooper at least (and his engine started knocking the ONE time I borrow it, go figure).
          '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
          '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
          '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
          '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

          Comment


          • #6
            " keep a piece "

            If you want to " keep a piece " keep the heads, ditch the lower end and get the 3.4 lower.
            The heads are the same between the two engines.
            The 3.4 has a better oiling system than the 3.1 and makes alot more power.
            !!!!! BOSCH PLUGS RULE !!!!!
            http://www.cardomain.com/id/powerdoctor

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            • #7
              Ok, so keep the heads and replace the lower end. Should I get OEM pistons and rods and stuff? The heads are the same between the two? What about everything else, like the fuel injection system and the ignition system and those other systems? Should I replace it all? Do I need to? What did the 3.4 come in? I bet I could find one at a junk yard - if I do, what else should I grab? Everything? I've seen a bunch of junk yards that have stockpiles and stockpiles of engines, how do I know that it's a good one? It'd probably only be like $300 anyway - not a big loss if it's not. But ya, where can I find a good list of tools to start stockpiling?

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              • #8
                The engines are pretty much the same thing.
                You should be able to use everthing off your car and it should all bolt right on to the 3.4
                !!!!! BOSCH PLUGS RULE !!!!!
                http://www.cardomain.com/id/powerdoctor

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by powerdoctor View Post
                  The engines are pretty much the same thing.
                  You should be able to use everthing off your car and it should all bolt right on to the 3.4
                  Yea, I was reading about the different engines - 3.4 = 3.1 bored = 2.8 stroked and bored - right?

                  Actually, getting a 3.4 is a great idea, my car can run on it's 3.1 until I have the 3.4 ready to bolt the heads on - of course I'll have to check the heads first. Any literature I should look at obtaining before I start this?

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                  • #10
                    Also - what do you guys think about the egr valve / smog pump? No emissions tests in my state, but I can't guarantee I'll be here forever. I know people have conflicting opinions regarding this matter, what do you think? I really hate the smog pump and the EGR - that mofo costs me $250 if it goes out, just to add exhaust to my intake. What garbage.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by zeusalmighty View Post
                      Yea, I was reading about the different engines - 3.4 = 3.1 bored = 2.8 stroked and bored - right?
                      Yeah, basically. I think you can bore a 2.8L to a 3.1L, but I don't think you can bore a 3.1L to a 3.4L. The 3.4L blocks are reinforced.

                      I'm trying to limp a 2.8L along with a dead cyl, so I'm going to slap a set of 3.4L heads on the 2.8L block. Most of the iron head stuff is interchangeable.
                      '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
                      '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
                      '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
                      '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by zeusalmighty View Post
                        Also - what do you guys think about the egr valve / smog pump? No emissions tests in my state, but I can't guarantee I'll be here forever. I know people have conflicting opinions regarding this matter, what do you think? I really hate the smog pump and the EGR - that mofo costs me $250 if it goes out, just to add exhaust to my intake. What garbage.
                        I had the EGR omitted from my harness (cheaper that way). I have not made a block-off plate yet, the valve is still there - just disconnected. I'm getting check-engine lights which my gut tells me is related to the EGR. Always when I'm coasting in gear, like when I'm slowing down for a stop, corner, going downhill, etc. The VSS was not required with the EGR removed, so I don't have that either.
                        '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
                        '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
                        '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
                        '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Of course the computer is programmed for the EGR - I assume I'll have to get my computer tuned or replaced. What purpose does the smog pump even serve? I understand the EGR, but that big giant hunk of metal eludes me.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Canyonero View Post
                            Always when I'm coasting in gear, like when I'm slowing down for a stop, corner, going downhill, etc. The VSS was not required with the EGR removed, so I don't have that either.
                            Yea, EGR problem is easy to spot. I think mine is just sticking because it only throws the code at me when I let off the gas at 50-60 mph. I've been told that cleaning the electronic one is difficult, most solvents will dissolve something or other. Any suggestions on that one?

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                            • #15
                              (thought I had posted this already, never hit submit...)

                              Yeah, doing the 3.4L will get you some power gains and everything will still bolt up as if it were the 3.1L. If you want bigger power gains, you need to say goodbye to your heads.

                              The 3.4L block that will bolt right into your Firebird will come from the 93-95 Camaro/Firebirds. Has an "F" cast into the block.

                              You'll be looking for something like this:



                              '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
                              '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
                              '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
                              '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

                              Comment

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