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DIY Plenum Spacers for 3x00?

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  • DIY Plenum Spacers for 3x00?

    Im in the process of building a modified large port 3x00 UIM. It uses stock runners and a 4x4 AL box for the plenum. I've run into a slight problem with my custom uim build. It appears that the plenum is too wide and I'm hitting the fuel rail. I can't really raise the plenum and I actually want it to be lower so it doesnt look so gawdy.


    I'm thinking of building a set of spacers to raise the uim so I can lower the plenum. The first material that comes to mind is 1/2 in. MDF (medium density fiberboard) and fiberglass resin. It's cheap and I can cut it very easily. I think if I make the spacers then soak them in resin it will hold up quite well to the heat and boost pressure once cured.

    What do you guys think? I don't want to spend $90 on the phenolic ones, so please, none of that.

    -Joseph

    1987 Fiero SE/Fastback - 3500 Turbo / OBD1 / '92 FWD Getrag 282

  • #2
    I would use a plastic composite before MDF and resin.

    What are you going to cut these spacers with?
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    • #3
      make the whole manifold of composite material....i did.... see my post
      3500, 1280 cam and PR, ls6 valve springs, port and polished heads, ported lim, ported uim, 4.3 70mm tb, ported trueleo headers and y pipe ALL FOR SALE (minus the car)
      96 LT4 6spd corvette. 355, AI 215cc LT4 Comp CNC Heads, Prope SRS pistons, Ported intake, ARH long tubes, Corsa Indy Pace 4:10 gears
      2012 Chevy Sonic Turbo 6spd
      1970 M35A2 Deuce and a Half, Spin on filters, Turned up IP, HIDs, Flat Black, 11.00x20 singles.

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      • #4
        I lowered the price on the spacers 10 bucks. Probably not as cheap as what you want to do though.
        Ben
        60DegreeV6.com
        WOT-Tech.com

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        • #5
          easiest way, make a mold and then get some good resin (bondo brand sux) and fiberglass mat, take the glass and rip it up and then take a slicer (rotary with blades, its a common kitchen apliance for moms everywhere ) and chop it up a bit...you want all the strands to be fairly small, then you add that to your mixed resin and stir, once its all mixed together you can pour it into your mold and there you go... all thats left is to machine a couple gasket surfaces

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          • #6
            If you can weld aluminum I would cut and make a custom angled peice. You can angle the bottom so it clears the rails. Like a trapezoid. Or Go to a round pipe..
            sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
            1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
            16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
            Original L82 Longblock
            with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
            Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

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            • #7
              how much space is left between the top of the stock plenum and the hood when it's shut, compared to that 4x4?

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              • #8
                Originally posted by El_Diablo View Post
                easiest way, make a mold and then get some good resin (bondo brand sux) and fiberglass mat, take the glass and rip it up and then take a slicer (rotary with blades, its a common kitchen apliance for moms everywhere ) and chop it up a bit...you want all the strands to be fairly small, then you add that to your mixed resin and stir, once its all mixed together you can pour it into your mold and there you go... all thats left is to machine a couple gasket surfaces
                That's a good idea. I might have to look into it. I'm not sure if it will hold pressure though... I'd hate to be at full boost and it explode.

                IanSzgatti: I'm not sure if it will fit under the hood of a fwd car. Probably not. I'm building this for my Fiero. I'll have plenty of clearance. I plan to put a mustang scoop on the deck lid anyways.

                Thanks for all the comments guys. I'm still looking into this. I may just buy the phenolic spacers. $70 is a little bit better of a price. Thanks Ben

                -Joseph

                1987 Fiero SE/Fastback - 3500 Turbo / OBD1 / '92 FWD Getrag 282

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                • #9
                  most modern aircraft are made of composites....they can with stand more than you will ever push in boost. problem is you may need to get into epoxies and armid or carbon weave... pretty cheap on ebay these days
                  3500, 1280 cam and PR, ls6 valve springs, port and polished heads, ported lim, ported uim, 4.3 70mm tb, ported trueleo headers and y pipe ALL FOR SALE (minus the car)
                  96 LT4 6spd corvette. 355, AI 215cc LT4 Comp CNC Heads, Prope SRS pistons, Ported intake, ARH long tubes, Corsa Indy Pace 4:10 gears
                  2012 Chevy Sonic Turbo 6spd
                  1970 M35A2 Deuce and a Half, Spin on filters, Turned up IP, HIDs, Flat Black, 11.00x20 singles.

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                  • #10
                    if it was simply resin i would only use ti for N/A as resin can be a bit brittle, the small strands should be easy enough to pour and mold and should still add a good bit of strength... just stay away from bondo brand and you'll be fine

                    if your really that worried, just wrap some fiberglass or kevlar (not really needed) weave around the outside for expansion resistance, you'll have to do this after you've done the majority of the machining though, hell, if you can do a mold you could even just cast a block of such a composite and have it milled just like a hunk of aluminum only much easier, just make sure your tools stay sharp and you'll be good

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                    • #11
                      how is a mold going to be made???

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by merlot566jka View Post
                        most modern aircraft are made of composites....they can with stand more than you will ever push in boost.
                        omg...


                        -=ЯoB=- 3400 3spd Z24 ---167Hp, 193Ft-Lbs @ the wheels
                        14.99@91.33mph

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                        • #13
                          ^^Huh?

                          Well, I found some composite material at a Home Depot hardware store. It's made for making decks. I believe it will work quite well. I've started and I think it will work quite well. It's 1in thick and very dense. I might even put some threaded inserts & nitrous nozzles in it later on.

                          I'll have some step by step pictures tonight. This stuff is so easy to shape.

                          I'll keep you guys updated...

                          1987 Fiero SE/Fastback - 3500 Turbo / OBD1 / '92 FWD Getrag 282

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                          • #14
                            Is it gas resistant?
                            sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                            1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                            16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                            Original L82 Longblock
                            with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                            Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by IsaacHayes View Post
                              Is it gas resistant?
                              Would gas get on the UIM gaskets? Isn't that where the planned spacer is going?

                              That stuff from HD tools just like wood. You can even use a router on them
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