New 3400 Build

[john_V63400]

So by now everyone should know that I blew yet another engine(#3) on my RSM/ZSpec set up. Time for a rebuild, this time Im looking for more power.

Im keeping the block, I will be .060 over stock after I clean the block.

My heads were stock,excluding valve springs I want stage 3 heads if there's such a thing, to compliment a stage 2 or 3 radical cam.

Might go with arias Again not sure, but definitely forged pistons.

Is there a stroker kit for this engine.

All supporting mods and Everything else I have.

Im not looking for everyday drivability, but it must be practical. Nothing hybrid or experimental. Let's focus on heads and cam. And anyother engine work or parts that would suppliment the build Im looking for. That consist of a bored out 3400 s/c @ 15 psi, radical cam, aftermarket heads, 46# injectors, Ls1 MAF.

I towed my car to my house and a friend thats rebuilt many race ready 350's has ofered his cherry picker, engine hoist, and his free labor. Time is on my side this time around I'm not looking to get on the road quick. I'm looking to build the best 3400 I can. I'm done crying. I'm ready to build again.

[ForcedFirebird]

Glad to see you are going to learn the entire engine inside and out this time.

You say no "hybrid stuff" but a 3500 top end would lower your compression with stock dished pistons, and it's definately not experimental. Many people here have done top end swaps.

Ben does some really nice 3400 heads set up for boost if you decide to stay with a 3400 top.

While you have the engine apart and want to get some high hp from it, it's not a bad idea to use MLS head gaskets, head studs, and upgrade the rod bolts (and maybe mains). Some of this might seem overkill, but better safe than sorry.

Make sure you get a WB o2 sensor, controller, and guage this time and keep an eye on your mixture. It's better to err on the side of rich in a boosted engine.

[geldartb]

use the 3500 heads and lower with the 3500 heads it will drop you like a .5 point down to 9.0.1.

theres no stroker kit but i think someone said something about the 3500 crank i posted a thread about it awhile back.

http://www.60degreev6.com/showthread.php?t=35679

[SappySE107]

I would use the 3400 heads.

[john_V63400]

No question about it, I'm using 3400 heads. Just not sure who or how im going to get a stage 3 radical cam and how, who and where do I go about getting heads that will go with them, all my heads have been stock, Ive never added such a high lift cam where my heads need to be milled. If thats even the correct terminolgy. Any advice on doing this.

[ForcedFirebird]

No question about it, I'm using 3400 heads. Just not sure who or how im going to get a stage 3 radical cam and how, who and where do I go about getting heads that will go with them, all my heads have been stock, Ive never added such a high lift cam where my heads need to be milled. If thats even the correct terminolgy. Any advice on doing this.

Again: Buy a set of boost ready 3400 heads from Ben :P

[MidnightriderZ24]

if u want real power ditch the s/c

[Superdave]

if u want real power ditch the s/c

x2

Turbo that thing..

[john_V63400]

Im staying S/Charged. Ive invested too much into the RSM kit to change now. So if I buy a set of boost ready heads from ben, they will be fine for my radical cam I want.

Ben if you read this, what's the advantages of having those boost ready heads vs stock, and would I need to give you my cam specs before any Head work is done.

[1988GTU]

I believe the port job is what is the differences.

[3100 MPFI]

One thing I would recommend is getting 1 STOCK piston for your engine so that you cam compare it to the forged ones. That way you can be CERTAIN that the right parts are getting installed.

It is hard for me to believe that a forged piston got pierced by a valve. The piston should have chewed that valve up into a little ball, and spit it out (not really, but you get my drift).

GET YOUR HANDS DIRTY. Do as much of the work as you can yourself. DO NOT LET A MECHANIC WORK ON YOUR VEHICLE!!!!! Mechanics are fine if you can AFFORD THEM, and don't want to do any REAL work. MACHINE SHOPS ARE DIFFERENT.

A good example..... I was told by a mechanic that my 1988 Cutlass Supreme (back when it was unmodified and had the stock 2.8 ) needed $2000 worth of work. I did it all myself for only $300 in parts.

This is about learning and fun. Just try to keep the mistakes to minimal, and if you are not 100% certain, then you ask on here.

[john_V63400]

One thing I would recommend is getting 1 STOCK piston for your engine so that you cam compare it to the forged ones. That way you can be CERTAIN that the right parts are getting installed.

It is hard for me to believe that a forged piston got pierced by a valve. The piston should have chewed that valve up into a little ball, and spit it out (not really, but you get my drift).

GET YOUR HANDS DIRTY. Do as much of the work as you can yourself. DO NOT LET A MECHANIC WORK ON YOUR VEHICLE!!!!! Mechanics are fine if you can AFFORD THEM, and don't want to do any REAL work. MACHINE SHOPS ARE DIFFERENT.

A good example..... I was told by a mechanic that my 1988 Cutlass Supreme (back when it was unmodified and had the stock 2.8 ) needed $2000 worth of work. I did it all myself for only $300 in parts.

This is about learning and fun. Just try to keep the mistakes to minimal, and if you are not 100% certain, then you ask on here.

Trust me the right part is getting installed. this time around i do want to do all the work myself.

Question Where is ben I really need his input on the heads and cam stuff

[3100 MPFI]

he comes and go in a drunken stupor.....

just kidding.....

Usually if he is really busy with work, he just turns off AIM. Send him a PM or something. He will get it.

[Blackrider]

At least ditch the 3400 manifold and move up to the 3500, I'm not to sure how a boosted engine would react to it, however from what I read it flows much better when the 3400 manifold.

[john_V63400]

nope staying 3400.