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  • 3500 plenum question

    So i pulled off my plenum today for the hell of it and remembered something that i wanted to do back when i built the engine. In the pic you can see the "ring" that's right behind the TB flange. IIRC the bottom hole there was for the EGR or something which was removed and welded shut on the outside.. but the hole and ring remain.




    I've seen it done in other applications but what do you guys think about filling those areas with JB-Weld or something to get rid of any possible tubulance?

    Soon that inlet will be ported to either 70 or 75mm so i'd like it as smooth as possible.

    Other ideas?

    Thanks,
    Dave
    Past Builds;
    1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
    1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
    Current Project;
    1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

  • #2
    If you have a TIG, fill it with metal. If you don't have a TIG, I would sugges Durafix.

    I just don't like the idea of epoxy being in a motor.
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    • #3
      i wanted to do this to my 05 3400 plenum too. but i always thought of what would happen if the jbweld didnt hold and went into the engine.

      with the 3400 as you might know on the 00+ you get the huge bump and depression where the egr comes in the kneck.

      have you had any experience with the durafix stuff.
      sigpic
      99 Grand Am GT
      3400/3500 -Solid trans mount--TCE 65mm T-body---85mm LS2 maf---1 1/4' TCE intake spacers with 3400 upper--SLP Catback with flowmaster 80--TOG headers
      Modded 3400 lifters with LT1 springs---Comp Cams 26986 Springs
      1357 cam 227 233 .050 dur
      515 515 lift 112 lsa
      15.232@88.85mph on stock 3400---New time to come


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      • #4
        From expierence, do not use JB weld or any other epoxy.....

        On my original 3500 plenum the neck was ground too thin, leaving a hole in plenum. So what was done was the plenum was cleaned in a parts washer, the inside of the plenum neck was roughed up and a industral epoxy that a machine shop recommended was placed over the hole.

        I went to start my car one day and it just back fired.....huge vac leak due to the epoxy coming off. Luckily the piece was large and did not get sucked into the engine.

        The problem is that traces of oil build up in the plenum, which gets soaked up in the porous aluminum, eventually losening the epoxy. The only safe solution would be to TIG weld it.
        2000 Grand Am GT
        2011 Chevy Impala

        "The world's best cam combined with a poor set of heads will produce an engine that's a dog. But bolt on a set of great heads even with a poor cam, and that engine will still make great power." ~John Lingenfelter

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        • #5
          Once you port to 70mm, that "lip" will be gone...



          See what I mean ...? All smooth besides one hole in the middle. (mines always full of oil, haha, I need a catch tank)
          11.92 @ 122 MPH 3400 91 Cavalier Z24 Intercooled S/C. -totalled-
          10.56 @ 130 MPH 3900 LZ9 87 IROC Z28 Intercooled GT4088 Turbo

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          • #6
            what throttle body is that. i imagine it involves an adapter of some sort.

            ive already got a 65mm throttlebody so i good for size. im gonna take it off the car and do some more smoothing inside it over the winter.

            i dont need the hole anymore no more egr for my car.

            anyone know of anyone that has used the durafix stuff or used it themselves.
            sigpic
            99 Grand Am GT
            3400/3500 -Solid trans mount--TCE 65mm T-body---85mm LS2 maf---1 1/4' TCE intake spacers with 3400 upper--SLP Catback with flowmaster 80--TOG headers
            Modded 3400 lifters with LT1 springs---Comp Cams 26986 Springs
            1357 cam 227 233 .050 dur
            515 515 lift 112 lsa
            15.232@88.85mph on stock 3400---New time to come


            Comment


            • #7
              It's just a standard brazing material...
              Anyone can repair or fabricate aluminum & cast aluminum stronger than a welding machine using just a torch with HTS-2000 brazing rods, repair any metal.
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              • #8
                Originally posted by Mars View Post
                Once you port to 70mm, that "lip" will be gone...



                See what I mean ...? All smooth besides one hole in the middle. (mines always full of oil, haha, I need a catch tank)
                Aah.. i should have thought about that.


                Guess i'll wait and see what happens after i get a new TB.
                Past Builds;
                1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
                1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
                Current Project;
                1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

                Comment


                • #9
                  It's a Ford Racing unit 70mm, I think it's from a 4.6L Mustang. I got it on e-bay for like 50$ shipped.

                  It bolts on using 2 holes, and it's 100% leak proof with only 2 bolts in it (one each corner)

                  I had to get a remote IAC motor setup (bought it here) I am using the Ford TPS, and it works fine. Been on that setup for 3 years now, I made a custom gasket using universal gasket material, and it's 100% leak free with only 2 bolts holding it on.
                  11.92 @ 122 MPH 3400 91 Cavalier Z24 Intercooled S/C. -totalled-
                  10.56 @ 130 MPH 3900 LZ9 87 IROC Z28 Intercooled GT4088 Turbo

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I too wanted to remove this, good thing I didn't fill it with epoxy!
                    SpudFiles
                    Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
                    Theopia
                    Enjoy life online.

                    1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
                    3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

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                    • #11
                      Well, people have used the epoxies with success as well. The key is cleaning and baking the part to get the oil out of the pores. I haven't had any luck with the durafix but it would be cool if it would work for me once:P Stuff looks like it would be excellent other than having to heat up the part to 700 degrees.
                      Ben
                      60DegreeV6.com
                      WOT-Tech.com

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Mars View Post
                        It's a Ford Racing unit 70mm, I think it's from a 4.6L Mustang. I got it on e-bay for like 50$ shipped.

                        It bolts on using 2 holes, and it's 100% leak proof with only 2 bolts in it (one each corner)

                        I had to get a remote IAC motor setup (bought it here) I am using the Ford TPS, and it works fine. Been on that setup for 3 years now, I made a custom gasket using universal gasket material, and it's 100% leak free with only 2 bolts holding it on.
                        More info on the remote IAC motor setup??

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Chris88CL View Post
                          More info on the remote IAC motor setup??
                          Something Marty and I designed up a couple years ago when the 3500 plenum first because available. I know Marty made a couple and sold them, but with a plan of aluminum, it's pretty easy to fab up. Just see the attached PDF design sheet.

                          You can also see pics in the Gallery... http://www.60degreev6.com/gallery/br...hp?c=17&userid=
                          Attached Files
                          -Brad-
                          89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
                          sigpic
                          Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Mars View Post
                            It's a Ford Racing unit 70mm, I think it's from a 4.6L Mustang. I got it on e-bay for like 50$ shipped.

                            It bolts on using 2 holes, and it's 100% leak proof with only 2 bolts in it (one each corner)

                            I had to get a remote IAC motor setup (bought it here) I am using the Ford TPS, and it works fine. Been on that setup for 3 years now, I made a custom gasket using universal gasket material, and it's 100% leak free with only 2 bolts holding it on.
                            Did those two bolts line up with the holes on the 3500 plenum? Seems like a 70mm would work well considering some people who used 75mm said they were a bit too big, and Dave is concerned about 65 being too small.
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                            • #15
                              Stock mustang V8 TB is 65mm. Just the IAC and linkage issue. But for you FF the linkage might work out since you need rear pull.
                              sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                              1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                              16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                              Original L82 Longblock
                              with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                              Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

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