wow thanks, Im serious this is a mod Im going to do. I think Im going to just tap into the radiator
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WaterCooled Intercooler theory
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To do a Coolant/air cooled IC *I* would want it like this...
A standalone electric water pump wired up to a 12V system with a separate reservoir NOT connected to the engines supply of coolant and mounted (pump/reservoir/IC) somewhat out of a heat soaked area. Make sure to add in a fuse and if you want a switch, hell maybe even a temp. sending unit to know how hot the fluid is. I'm pretty sure you know why you'd want it NOT inlined with the engines supply of coolant.Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.
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A few years ago I ran a spearco air water heat exchanger on my Z-34 Lumina and had tremedous drops in air intake temps, on an N/A app and had some nice track times. Keep in mind I was literally at sea level in 100-105 deg ambiant air temps too. I liked it.
What I did was fairly easy if you don't mind a little bit of hacksawing.
First the parts:
5 gallon igloo water cooler.
25' 1/2" copper tube roll
radiator flush kit, the cheap plastic $5 kit
2 gallons antifreeze
3/4" heater hose, about 50' we had tons left over but 1 roll wasnt enough
1 foot of 1/2" heater hose
spearco heat exchanger
1/3 hp sump pump from boat store, with threaded fittings for in and out.
rock salt
water
silicone
ice
air intake tubing that you decide to use for your routing, we used titanium, ebay ftw.
now we made brackets to mount the exchanger inside the left fender kind of at an angle pitched towards center of engine compartment, we had to cut a small amount of the inner fender out and notch some of the plastic in the left headlight support housing. Our air supply came from a ram air scoop mounted in the lower air hole of the bumper, fabricated from fiberglass, that ran to a cone style air filter box. We stole it off a '98 mustang 3.8L air box and filter. this was mounted in the front bumper, it then made a 90 deg turn and pitched up to meet the exchanger, from the exchanger it went to the TB.
Having already removed the plastic inner fender, we cut an oval shaped hole through the back of the wheel well into the frame channel (rocker). This was for the feed and return line heater hose that runs to the rear fender well. Next we cut another oval hole but on the inboard side of the frame channel so the hose could run to center of car and up through the trunk floor at center. The same hole in the floor also got the battery cable run through it for the battery relocation kit.
Next we cut 2 holes into the side of the igloo cooler, inlet and outlet, then we used a 6"id piece of pvc as a mold and began to coil the copper tubing around it, once coiled remove and discard the pipe, we placed the coil into the igloo cooler and ran small sections of heater hose to the coil, through the side walls of the cooler and siliconed them into the cooler.
we used a radiator flush kit that had the hose pipe adapters and the T-fitting for a fill point. It was easy enough to run a on off switch, relay it, and mount the pump to the floor. Our direction of travel went, pump ---> igloo, exchanger, back to pump. We figured the cold water to hit the exchanger before comming back and hitting a possible hot pump.
Last we filled the system with antifreeze, and inside the cooler we packed crushed ice, 1 gallon water, and 1/2 cup rock salt, this makes the ice melt water drop below freezing yet staying liquid for better exchange.
You put the ice mixture in just before you hit the burn out box, and dump it all when you get back after the pass. Make sure to rinse off your copper coils real well when you park it for the week between racing.sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.
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You do not want to use your engine coolant, that will heat things up. I would use water since I doubt it will be boiling but who knows. In winter make sure there is antifreeze though so it doesn't freeze of course. You will want some additive to prevent corrosion though. A small radiator from a civic or something might work. Those are like heater core size LOL. A heatercore or motorcycle radiator might work too.sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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Originally posted by 95SleeperAcheiva View PostA few years ago I ran a spearco air water heat exchanger on my Z-34 Lumina and had tremedous drops in air intake temps, on an N/A app and had some nice track times. Keep in mind I was literally at sea level in 100-105 deg ambiant air temps too. I liked it.
What I did was fairly easy if you don't mind a little bit of hacksawing.
First the parts:
5 gallon igloo water cooler.
25' 1/2" copper tube roll
radiator flush kit, the cheap plastic $5 kit
2 gallons antifreeze
3/4" heater hose, about 50' we had tons left over but 1 roll wasnt enough
1 foot of 1/2" heater hose
spearco heat exchanger
1/3 hp sump pump from boat store, with threaded fittings for in and out.
rock salt
water
silicone
ice
air intake tubing that you decide to use for your routing, we used titanium, ebay ftw.
now we made brackets to mount the exchanger inside the left fender kind of at an angle pitched towards center of engine compartment, we had to cut a small amount of the inner fender out and notch some of the plastic in the left headlight support housing. Our air supply came from a ram air scoop mounted in the lower air hole of the bumper, fabricated from fiberglass, that ran to a cone style air filter box. We stole it off a '98 mustang 3.8L air box and filter. this was mounted in the front bumper, it then made a 90 deg turn and pitched up to meet the exchanger, from the exchanger it went to the TB.
Having already removed the plastic inner fender, we cut an oval shaped hole through the back of the wheel well into the frame channel (rocker). This was for the feed and return line heater hose that runs to the rear fender well. Next we cut another oval hole but on the inboard side of the frame channel so the hose could run to center of car and up through the trunk floor at center. The same hole in the floor also got the battery cable run through it for the battery relocation kit.
Next we cut 2 holes into the side of the igloo cooler, inlet and outlet, then we used a 6"id piece of pvc as a mold and began to coil the copper tubing around it, once coiled remove and discard the pipe, we placed the coil into the igloo cooler and ran small sections of heater hose to the coil, through the side walls of the cooler and siliconed them into the cooler.
we used a radiator flush kit that had the hose pipe adapters and the T-fitting for a fill point. It was easy enough to run a on off switch, relay it, and mount the pump to the floor. Our direction of travel went, pump ---> igloo, exchanger, back to pump. We figured the cold water to hit the exchanger before comming back and hitting a possible hot pump.
Last we filled the system with antifreeze, and inside the cooler we packed crushed ice, 1 gallon water, and 1/2 cup rock salt, this makes the ice melt water drop below freezing yet staying liquid for better exchange.
You put the ice mixture in just before you hit the burn out box, and dump it all when you get back after the pass. Make sure to rinse off your copper coils real well when you park it for the week between racing.
S...........L...........E...........E...........P...........E...........R
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Im going to use a motorcycle radiator, then use a 12v water pump, then use 75% water, 25% antifreeze, then sum Redline Radiator coolant, along with the air to water intercooler from Ebay, it's going to look something like this, but mine will look and perform much better, considering I have a V9, Eatons cant match the S/C output. PLus Im much more orginized.
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here is my IC from ebay.
it's pretty decent..but not perfect
but then it only has to function like it's supposed to do.
I will be using a radiator from a kawasaki zxr 1989(ninja)
that radiator/cooler is flat and it shouldn't be to hard to find some
place to install it.
I plan on installing the intercooler in the rear wheelarch of my 87 fiero,
this way it's pretty much isolated from the enginecompartement.nothing's impossible-it's just a mindset
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What engine bay pic is that? It's got a 3x00 TB... And it looks fiberglassed.. Perhaps they bored it and bored too far and had to patch it? haha.sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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Originally posted by TurboAlero View Posthmm this water to air setup sound nice how much will the whole kit cost???
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