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  • SBC rods

    Well I was doing some research but couldn't come up with any thing conclusive.....

    1. Which SBC chevy rods?
    2. How to I narrow them and how much?
    3. Does Crower still make the already narrowed ones?

    Thank you, Kyle

    S...........L...........E...........E...........P...........E...........R

  • #2
    It's in the site articles. They are 327 small journal rods, and the small ends need bushed, measurements are there too. I would link, but I'm still getting lost here with the new layout.
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    • #3
      Im not sure , think you can get small journal powered metal rods now,which would be better and probably cheaper.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by ezrollin View Post
        Im not sure , think you can get small journal powered metal rods now,which would be better and probably cheaper.
        Our stock rods are powdered.

        The only reason to go to SBC rods is because it's a cheap alternative to custom h beam forgings made for a 660.

        I plan on making some programs at the CNC shop to mod the SBC rods, as well as experimenting with some billet aluminum h-beams (if the bottom of the bore doesn't get in the way).
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        • #5
          Our stock rods are NOT powder metal. They are true steel forgings. There is no need for changing them unless you are building a racing motor. I seriously doubt anyone here is making the power required to break them. If anyone is breaking them I would bet money the motor has seen detonation.
          1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
          1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
          Because... I am, CANADIAN

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          • #6
            Originally posted by betterthanyou View Post
            Our stock rods are NOT powder metal. They are true steel forgings. There is no need for changing them unless you are building a racing motor. I seriously doubt anyone here is making the power required to break them. If anyone is breaking them I would bet money the motor has seen detonation.
            I have only seen them bent. I thought I read somewhere that they are powder forged, and latter 660's have full forgings?
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            • #7
              Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
              I have only seen them bent. I thought I read somewhere that they are powder forged, and latter 660's have full forgings?
              the newer engines (3500 and 3900) have forged powdered steel.. all the older ones are true forged steel.
              Past Builds;
              1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
              1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
              Current Project;
              1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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              • #8
                Hello but to some of you I am new to and others not, my name is Kenny, I also would like to know about how to entirely beef up my 3400 block which will soon get 3500 P&P heads, and P&P Upper/lower intakes.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by betterthanyou View Post
                  Our stock rods are NOT powder metal. They are true steel forgings. There is no need for changing them unless you are building a racing motor. I seriously doubt anyone here is making the power required to break them. If anyone is breaking them I would bet money the motor has seen detonation.
                  I agree, I only suggested the powered metal because I thought 327 rods might be hard to find.I've read many places that that rpm was the killer of rods,not horsepower.

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                  • #10
                    Yes that is true. RPM does kill rods but for the 99% of people driving on the street our motors are going to spin below 7000RPM which is where the stock rods are limited. Power output will kill rods eventually but again no one here is making enough power on a regular basis to brake stock rods. Curtis is probably at the limit of stock rods. If you are breaking or bending rods and not making a good deal more than 350HP then you are more than likely having detonation problems, and NO rod will last under detonation.
                    1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
                    1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
                    Because... I am, CANADIAN

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                    • #11
                      and NO rod will last under detonation.
                      My stock rods survive TWO extreme detonations(like a cannon exploding). The bearings were crushed like a penny on a train track. I haven't taken them out yet after the last time, hmmm.....
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                      • #12
                        Well then there it testament to stock rod durability. I rest my case and will continue to emphasize the strength of these motors. In you case it was probably bearing crush and movement of the main cap that saved the rods.
                        1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
                        1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
                        Because... I am, CANADIAN

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                        • #13
                          well if I stick with the stock rods, do you think i should have them cryo-hardened, shotpeened, both?

                          I planning on making 400+ hp on 12-15psi..........

                          S...........L...........E...........E...........P...........E...........R

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                          • #14
                            Shotpeening will strenghten them quite a bit. The smoother the surface, the harder it is for stress cracks to form from irregularities.
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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by betterthanyou View Post
                              ...and NO rod will last under detonation.
                              Years ago, I knew of a 8V-71 DETROIT DIESEL ENGINE that had a busted crank...due to lugging it...I think the rod was OK

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