Adjustable rocker arm stud swap in '92 3.1L

[cusideabelincoln]

LOL yeh I saw those other ones but I'm not sure if I want to spend that much (more) money. The ones I was looking at are basically the same as the ones that came with the rocker arms.

I'm sure they are more reliable, but the others should work fine, yes? I don't plan on racing this car every time I drive it. I just wanted a little more mid- and high-range power to pass the slow folks.

Well looks like that's confirmation they should work. Anyone know of a place to get the pivots for, hopefully, $20 or less? I'd rather get new ones, otherwise I know people who work on SBC and I'm sure I can get some used ones off of them.

[geoffinbc]

There are much cheaper adjusters out there. ARP's are of course the most expensive. Try COMP and Crane. And try a Local supplier because Jegs and Summit are often not the cheapest.

[cusideabelincoln]

Alright I checked Crane and Comp. Crane didn't seem to have any pivot balls sold separately, but Comp does make and sell them:

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=1400B-16&Category_Code=

Looks like those 3/8" are what I need. However, I hope the price is for a set of 16 and not for just 1 pivot! They don't really clarify how many you get for $13.

Again I'm quadruple checking I get the right things this time before I even buy the suckers. I've been working on my car, on and off, for 6 months now and I want to drive it so bad. But the 6 months have been hell with bolts breaking off, auto parts store giving me the wrong parts, and learning for the first time. I really want to get it right since so much has gone wrong already.

[bszopi]

PART #1400B-16

The 16 at the end usually means that there are 16 pieces.

http://www.compperformancegroupstore...&Category_Code=

As you can see, the 1 at the end means only 1, and that they are $0.79 each.

[cusideabelincoln]

Thanks for the clarification. I was 99% sure the 16 did denote how many there were, but I just wanted confirmation from someone who's bought this stuff before. Looks like I'll be picking those up.

So, I should be good to go with:

12 of 1400B-1 3/8" BALL
and
12 of 1400N-1 3/8" NUT

from Comp, right? I know those nuts are cheap, but they should be self locking, correct? Here's the page (with drop down menu) I found them:

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=ROCARMAN&Category_Code=

I'll go with the replacement nuts as long as they lock down.

[geoffinbc]

Well I hope they work for you. Just remember to limit the adjustment you do to them.

[cusideabelincoln]

Well boo, I took a really close look at the studs and they do have a little damage:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e8/cusideabelincoln/stud.jpg

The picture is big so you'll have to zoom it out. I had to put the thing in a scanner because my camera sucks balls. Looks like they are still useable, but I don't want to end up damaging or shortening the lift of the nuts if I don't have to.

I did find a rocker nut from a SBC head in the garage and put it on one of the studs. I didn't tighten it down all the way because it was starting to take a lot of torque just to get it to the pivot ball, so I stopped because I didn't want to ruin the stud or nut. I'm not even 100% sure it was 3/8", but I assumed it was. 5/16" probably wouldn't fit, would they?

I also came to a revelation that I can probably put the OEM studs back on, get a washer, torque the nuts down, and not have to take off the intake. This would save a little time and I could get my car done sooner, since I wouldn't have to wait for nuts and pivots to ship to me.

Anyone wan to confirm if I can replace the studs without taking off the intake?

Also, if anyone knows the thickness of the washer needed for the 1.6 roller rockers, that would be great too.