I would of cut and spliced one wire at a time, with a rag to keep the bare wire from touching the engine and grounding. Yeah I *really* hate disconnecting the battery.
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3500 Plenum swapped!
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boy, i hear ya there. if i HAVE to then i have to go through the idle relearn sequence--UGH!!Andy
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fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70
62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.
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I just drive it until it learns. I tried the idle relearn and it just wasted gas. It smooths out after a few miles.sigpicNew 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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mine doesn't learn. i drove it for a week and had real idle hunting issues.Andy
sigpic
fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70
62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.
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oh yeah, the SFI's seem they don't need to learn. must be nice!Andy
sigpic
fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70
62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.
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It had to re-adjust when I swapped to a 3400 TB. I didn't disconnect the battery and it had a high idle (I was thinking damn my exhaust sounds loud!!) due to the IAC chamber was a bit different and it wasn't used to that, so it had to readjust it's position. It settled down once I put it in gear and back to neutral a few times, and was perfect after a drive around the block.sigpicNew 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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yeah there still is a learning procedure its just not as drastic as a MPFI motor.
Got Lope?
3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS
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Ok Just attempted to do this on my own tonight. I am getting large misfires and a burning smell which i think is from my wire splice for the map sensor. I soldered the sensor so i dont understand why it smells that way. I am a little confused on the routing of the vacuum lines so if someone could post a pic of how they are set up that would help me a lot. This is my daily driver so a quick reply would really help me out. Thanks guys.Lots of mods cost lots of $$
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2598719/1
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!!!! Burning smell? Did you solder the wires to the right ones? Did you use heatshrink to insulate the connections?
Vacuum routing is easy, did you tap the IAC port and put a barbed fitting for vacuum? If not you can use the one by the brake booster port if it's tapped, not all plenums are tapped though. You gotta run one of these vaccum lines to the FPR.
Your coil pack and ICM is bolted to the aluminum bracket right? Without it, it will burn up very quickly as it needs a heatsink....
Everything else should bolt up like stock....sigpicNew 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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the coil pack is bolted, but not well since i was somehow missing the bolts for the studs on the head and i could only find one bolt to fit, i will try to find a second tomorrow. The map pigtail i recieved had no colors at all so i soldered a to a and so on as shown on the plugs for the respective harnesses. I did not have heatshrink so i temporarily used electrical tape. I was going to get some shrink stuff tomorrow. I bought the mani used, the iac port is tapped and has the barb fitting. Right now i am using the old map tube and T from that to the fpr and then put the grey line coming out of the wiring harness into the other part of the T.Lots of mods cost lots of $$
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2598719/1
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i think its the evap. Any ideas on the wiring? or is a to a and so on correct?
I got it running. My dumbass was so tired last night that i crossed two plug wires. Might cause a miss you think? Thanks for the help.Last edited by alerored04; 08-28-2007, 11:51 AM.Lots of mods cost lots of $$
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2598719/1
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Glad you got it running ok.
On another note, I did something kinda cool, or at least I thought so, to my Coil pack bracket. I used two 3/8 nuts as spacers and used two header bolts to hold the bracket down to the intake manifold. It looks pretty sweet I think.I'll take pics if anyone is interested in seeing how it looks.
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LOL, I was gonna ask about the plug wires but didn't think you would have disconnected them. The wiring you just match up the colors, green to green, etc one colors don't match but the other 2 do so its easy to figure out. Also the new MAP usually lists ground, +5 and ref pins.
Whitelightnin: yes please do post pics. I was thinking of doing something like that possibly too.sigpicNew 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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