Cam For A Daily Driver?

[86euro]

Yes, I used the search, but nothing really answered my question
I was thinking the ARI Phase II cam would be good for what I want? The car is an '86 Celebrity that will be used every day and is a gen 1 2.8 mpfi. I don't want to loose much low-end power, but I would like a little more up high. I also don't want to have to change the springs to accommodate the cam, which brings me to my next question-
Is it OK to put in a new cam and use the old bearings? The motor is from an '88 Fiero with about 120K on it that ran well. There are a few collapsed lifters, so I figured I would replace all of them, then I figured I might as well put in a cam too.
I really need to get this car out of the garage and on the road so I can get the 2door in for the 3400/5speed swap. Maybe I should just leave it alone and replace the lifters?
Here's the ARI cams link:

http://www.engine-parts.com/GMV6/28camspecs.html

[SappySE107]

You aren't going to get anywhere with stock springs. You can reuse the bearings if you want, just check the journals on your stock cam and make sure the new one spins without problem. With stock springs though, you should just replace the lifters. Otherwise id go with the comp 260 grind with lifters/springs.

[86euro]

I think I remember in an old post that someone stated the recommended springs for the 260 cam were noisy. I don't mind actually changing the springs, but I'm just cheap and was hoping it wasn't needed with a mild cam

[ForcedFirebird]

I agree with Sappy. The 260 cam is a tame beast. Call Delta, they are cheaper (re-ground), you will just have to return your cam as a core. 1/2 a year ago, they gave me a 260 copy (biggest they can get with a re-grind) for $100 with lifters, stickers and a t-shirt.

[86euro]

OK, so are stock replacement springs (not weak) OK for the 260 type, or do they need to be stronger than original? Can SBC springs be used without machining?

[Ray Hamilton]

I installed an ARI stage II in a 2.8 and the added lift made the retainers hit the guides. They had to be ground down. The stage II is the same as the Edelbrock Performer.

[SappySE107]

You can use beehive springs. The comp springs I have on the store with the comp LS1 retainers and keepers will fit. Or use LS6 springs. I wouldn't run straight springs with the huge retainers.

[86euro]

I installed an ARI stage II in a 2.8 and the added lift made the retainers hit the guides. They had to be ground down. The stage II is the same as the Edelbrock Performer.

I think I see what you're talking about, the gen1 springs have some sort of sleeve inside of them. It looks like they could pose a problem.

[86euro]

You can use beehive springs. The comp springs I have on the store with the comp LS1 retainers and keepers will fit. Or use LS6 springs. I wouldn't run straight springs with the huge retainers.

I'm a little confused about two things:
While I understand the benefits if beehive springs and smaller retainers, why would they be necessary for my application? All of my SBC's have the standard type springs and I don't have any problems/complaints about them.

If I were to use the beehive style springs, would I need to use the stock locks with the new retainers? When compared to a gen2 setup (that's all I have laying around at the moment), the gen1 valve stems are a larger diameter and have different lock grooves.

I also am concerned with using springs that are too stiff for the stock stamped rockers.

[geoffinbc]

Straight springs are old school. Your Small Blocks don't have them but every single new one does. Beehive springs are a cheep insurance policy. Do you absolutely need them? No.

You cannot use Gen II or III retainers you must use Comps retainers for non LS series engines. Stock Gen I locks will work with the Comp retainers.

Don't worry about stiffer springs and stock rockers. Stamped steel rockers are actually very strong.

[ForcedFirebird]

Stock Gen I locks will work with the Comp retainers.

I like that news. I happen to have two complete pairs of iron heads, and am doing a 3500 top swap. Anything else needed to do the LSx springs?

[3400-95-Modified]

spring seats and valve seals.

There are tons of ideas floating around on which to use. I ended up with toyota seats, and the dodge seals. No oil leaking to the cylinders so they seal fine.

Also I think the LSx springs are only good up to 500 lift max... IIRC... I'm almost kicking myself for not going with the ones on the 60 store. Now if I ever want to go crazy and swap cams I need to swap springs too.

[ForcedFirebird]

The stock 3500 valve seals aren't going to work? .500 lift? Maybe I won't be using the LSx springs, then. A 262 cam with 1.6 rockers makes about .475 lift IIRC, and I want to use at least a 272 this time, modified to my taste for boost.

[3400-95-Modified]

Wait... I think I stand corrected...

From an e-bay auction.

.550 to .575 Lift

and with LS6 yellows No the stock seats and seals dont work, the ID is too small for the seat center OD.

Also from Lingenfelter Performance regarding install on 350 of course.

Lingenfelter Performance recommends and uses the factory LS6 valve spring with our GT2-3 camshafts. This valve spring is good for camshafts up to .580” lift. These valve springs can also be used with stock camshafts as a replacement for worn out stock springs. These are a direct drop in spring that will not require any machining and use the stock retainers and locks. Sold in sets of 16

Maybe Ben will chime in to correct any of that... I don't know all the lift limits on 3500 heads with LS6 springs.

[ForcedFirebird]

Yeah, I could buy aftermarket springs, but last time I checked the LSx springs were less than $10 each.