3400 Swap Complete -- Check it out!

[bszopi]

and dont forget thread sealant on the front cover bolts that go into the coolant passages.

Hmm... did forget that. So that might have helped, although I'm not sure it was the only reason it was leaking.

As far as the specs go, I was the one that put them up on the site (http://www.60degreev6.com/index.php?p=pages&pid=36), so I'd hope that I have them handy! If not, I can always just pull them up from that link fairly easily.

[GPXSS]

yeah all this last minute bullshit is what kills you.. happens almost every time i pull the engine for something. So you got it running at least, everything sound okay? Idle fine and all that?

[bszopi]

Just finished getting it in and cleaning up. Haven't had a chance to drive it anywhere yet, cause I'm getting ready to go to work. But, no leaks that I can see and the thing idles beautifully. Its been a long time since this thing had idled like this. Kinda nice actually. I can start it up and let it go and I don't have to worry about it dying on me. When I get to work, I'll get back on and say how it drives. I've got a 20 mile trip there, so I should get a nice feel for how everything is. I will also post some more pics tonight when I get home from work.

[gpse3400]

I'll bet anything with just a 65mm tb and a 2 1/2 down pipe(works wonders and is cheap for the muffler shop to fabricate!!!), you'd get to 200+ crank HP easy to forget about the tq yet still run normal...With minivan hardware the engine is 185 @ 5200and 210tq at 4000. Yes.GEN 3. How Sweet it is.

[bszopi]

Well, the new engine ran great for a day. Now, I have no idea what is wrong. So here is the situation...

Started it up to come to work this morning. Pulling out of the drive, it seemed kinda sluggish if I got on the gas any. Last night on the drive home I had noticed it was running a little on the lean side (according to the NBO2). When I looked at the AF gauge this morning, there were no lights lit, so I assumed it was very lean. Continued driving for ~1/2 mile at it just didn't seem right, and then I noticed that the very last RICH light was lit on the AF gauge. Looked at the other dash gauges and noticed the oil pressure was pegged high and the SES and AIRBAG lights were both on. Needless to say, I stopped and turned off the car. I opened the hood to see if there were any visual signs of problems... nothing. So I went back to try to start it again. It won't start. It won't even crank! And the oil pressure is still pegged high. I can hear the fuel pump turning on though.

So my question is, anyone have any insight? Could it just be a failed oil pressure sender? I don't remember ever seeing anything saying that if oil pressure was too high the car won't start. I figure it has to be something with the ECM though to cause the starter to not even spin. I dunno... I'm kinda lost at this point. Guess I'll be buying a code scanner today to see what codes are triggering the SES, but any help before then would be great!

[bszopi]

Guess no one has any input. That sucks...

Well, I just got home and did a quick check of some things. Determined it most likely is an electrical issue. When I turn the key on, the oil pressure continues to peg the gauge (its pointing towards the speedometer almost now) and the AF guage pegs high. Now, I know its not because of a high AF, because the gauge is hooked to 12+ vs IGN, so when the key is off, it reads low. As soon as the key is turned on, it goes high. I've unplugged the battery to try a possible reset, but I'm leaning toward a bad PCM. Still doesn't explain the airbag light though...

And battery voltage is ~12.5v, so its not a dead battery...

[bszopi]

And its fixed...

Hooked the battery back up and it acted like there had never been a problem. So I don't have a frickin clue as to what the hell was wrong with it. But, its working again, and now I just to just keep an adjustable wrench in the car in case I need to disconnect the battery for ~5 mintues on the side of the road some time...

[Rhedalert]

it's the 3100 ghost coming back for one last laugh!

[gpse3400]

You probably have a ground thats bad, considering you are having a bunch on conditions wrong. as far as the car not starting...P/N switch out of adjustment perhaps? Just for I now I'd go back and make sure all your grounds are togther because an bunch of shit failing at the same time or reading wrong to the computer tells me a bad ground...rarely is it ever a power wire unless you outright crush it. I would NOT dismiss this. More than likly it will reoccur. Better to spend a day and diag it than to be stranded.

[AaronGTR]

So how's the car running Brad? Figure out the problem yet? What year is your car BTW?

[bszopi]

It did end up being a bad ground. Got that fixed and the car is running just great now! I am definately pleased with it, that's for sure.

The car is a 94...

[gpse3400]

You'er welcome....

[Rhedalert]

dang, so it was that!............

[TheDirtyBen]

so, what did you do about the EGR? did you make an adapter plate or buy one? or block it off? all of your harness connectors for the sensors matched? what all did you have to swap from the old 3100?

[bszopi]

EGR is just blocked off, and has been for over a year (ever since I did the 3400 top end swap onto the 3100). The knock sensor had to be switched over, as well as the oil pressure sender, but that was just so I could have the gauge indication. I kept the 3100 fuel rail and injectors, therefore that was the same harness. Everything else matched right up though. As far as swapping from the 3100, just the front cover (which I wish now I would have just cut off that boss that was in the way of the engine mount) and the exhaust manifolds. Oh, and the fuel rail, but I already mentioned that.