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RWD 3500 fun

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  • RWD 3500 fun

    As many of you know I have an '85 GMC S-15 Jimmy, that once had a turbocahrged hybrid, whihc was fun, but was never enough. I had pulled the small port 3100 heads a few years ago to upgrade to 3400 heads, but never did get the top end bolted back on, just sat on there for a while.

    Then decided recently to go complete 3400, since I had to install a new blcok, due to a couple things I saw on the Franken60 block, that I just didn't like, so why not upgrade, right?

    Well as of Sunday I received a 3500 from an '06 G6, and decided that I would set it in the now empty engine bay of the truck, since I had time, and would like to see just how much it would take to make work. Then the decision was made to just use the 3500. I've kicked myself for not using the 3400 top end I had when I put the Franken60 together, since I ended up with a bunch more 3400 parts sshortly after getting it complete, that wouldn't happen this time, I'll jsut go for the big stuff now. If I find a better chassis later for the 3500, I can always pull the 3500 and install a 3400, since the mount I will be making will work with both engines.

    I will be copying parts of a thread I started on www.s-series.org, so it may seem a bit like I'm starting new posts within this one.

    So far I can see these new/custom parts needed:
    -Driver side engine mount
    -Passenger side mount, as there would be a slight difference.
    -Modified oil pan to clear crossmember.
    -Drilling jig for the starter (to relocate to the passenger side of the block) Won't work, since the block will not support the RWD starter
    -Adaptors to use OEM belt driver accessories with the new engine, which may include a new thermostat housing.
    -Custom or modified headers, to match exhaust port shape and bolt pattern. May be able to make them to use stock Y-pipe.
    -EGR adaptors.

    Other ideas for the swap:
    -Custom dizzy to clear genIII intake manifold
    -Custom intake to retain stock dizzy


    Posted May 21 2007
    I did however get a chance to start comparing, or rather comparing again, since it has been a few years, the blocks, and have discovered that re-drilling the starter on the other side would be MUCH more involved than I had originally remembered. So it looks like a driver side starter will need to be used, or maybe some sort of aftermarket deal for a passenger side starter, due to where the holes will need to be to use a 2.8L RWD starter.

    I think for myself I will just cut and weld a new pocket onto my bell housing and use the driver side starter, as long as it doesn't interfere with the clutch mechanism. If it does I will have to look at the NVG tranny that came on the 2nd gen 2.2 trucks.

    I would rather run a passenger side starter, as the exhaust will be an issue to try and fit through the driver side, due to the oil filter also being there, though an oil filter re-locate might be able to take care of that.

    *edit* I was in the garage and looked at this a bit more and would have to use an oil filter relocate to run the driver side starter anyway, and will be very tight for exhaust clearance, though I think there could be enough space to sneek a down pipe past the starter.

    Sorry no pics yet, hope to get some soon, once I start getting some development on this

    Posted June 03 2007
    Another small update. Today I purcahsed and received an '06 3500, and decided that I would set it in the engine bay of the Jimmy to see how looks and verify some ideas and thoughts I had.

    I think I will be using the 3500 for this swap, though I will still develope the 3400 mounts, since the 3400 is a much more common engine right now.

    After setting the engine in place, it looks as though there might be enough space on the driver side to pass teh exhaust between the starter and frame, a remote oil filter will definatly be need though. Even if a pasenger side starter was used the 3500 oil adaptor would place the filter in the crossmember, and I don't know if the S-series oil filter adaptor will work or not since the 3500 uses a different attachment method. I haven't had a chance to verify if the threads in the center oil port are the same as the older 660s.

    The 3500 exhaust manifolds, while close will not work.
    Using the "front" manifold on the passenger side has the outlet pointed almost directly at the engine mount. I suppose you could make some sort of box style connector there, but flow would be terible.

    On the driver side, using the same manifold, it's very close, but the steering gets in the way.

    The "rear" manifold is just no where near right to even try it.

    So it looks like a 3500 S-series will exist, I'm about 75% leaning that way anyway, I had thought about "saving" this engine for a later project, but I can always swap a 3400 in place of this one down the road if need be.

    Posted June 05 2007
    Well I have some pics to show you guys, where the beginning stages are at.


    The 3500:



    After some diassembly:



    Sitting in the vehicle, with a couple bolts threaded through the trans:



    Here is a pic with the passenger side mount sitting in place, there is one bolt theraded in to hold it to the block. The pattern of the bolt bosses has two of them in the same place on this block as they are on the gen one block, though I think they are spaced a little farther apart, as I couldn't get both upper and lower bolts threaded in, I will verify this when I pull the engine back out to fab the mount(s).

    The engine is sitting about an inch too high. The oil pan is resting on the crossmember. This is in a Jimmy, in a pick up, this would be about 2" too high, since the SUV has the engine sitting higher for better driveline angle.



    Here is a pic of the "front manifold" being held in place on the passenger side:



    Here is a pic of the same manifold on the driver side, close, but not close enough.



    Here is a pic of the RWD front cover and water pump on the front of the 3500. I have to verify that bolt holes will be fine, as I have read that some have changed on the 3500. This was an extremly quick mock up Sunday night to see what it will fit and look like in the truck, which also solidified my decision to use the 3500 in the Jimmy, instead of a 3400.



    The mount design I have in mind will work with both a 3400 and 3500, so for anyone wanting to get into a genIII swap in thier S-series, you'll be able to have a broader choice here.

    The oil pan will need to be modified, obvoulsy, but will fit either block as well, which I will verify hopefully within the next week or so.

    I'm still trying to decide on a starter solution, I think I will be using a FWD starter, which will also require a FWD flywheel, but the clutch bolt pattern is the same between FWD and RWD. If you're using an automatic, you could probably just use the flex plae that comes with the 3500. I will also need to modify the bell housing to clear the starter snout, I just have to verify that the clutch arm will not get in the way.
    Last edited by Guest; 06-06-2007, 11:22 AM.

  • #2
    oil pans are different between the 3400 and 3500.. and yah, if that timing cover will bolt to a 3400 it'll bolt to a 3500... i used a 3400 gasket on mine.



    Lookin good, you gonna do that little thing you were working on in DD2K? or just keep it stock?
    Past Builds;
    1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
    1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
    Current Project;
    1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

    Comment


    • #3
      Nice! Are you going to keep it boosted? I hope so!!!
      sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
      1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
      16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
      Original L82 Longblock
      with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
      Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by IsaacHayes View Post
        Nice! Are you going to keep it boosted? I hope so!!!
        Yep, and it's getting more forced than last time, a LOT more.

        Dave: I don't remember what that was. I know I was toying with a pretty un-realistic combination, but the "mild" build should be MORE than enough.

        What is the differences in the pans? I REALLy hope it's not the pan rail, or at least nothing magor in that department, since mine looks like it has a crack in it. :?

        Comment


        • #5
          Deffinatly going to keep an eye on this, as I am curious about how you are going to try to keep the dizzy.

          Comment


          • #6
            The bolt holes are in different locations. The pan is also clearanced for the rods in the same location as the block is.
            -Brad-
            89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
            sigpic
            Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by bszopi View Post
              The bolt holes are in different locations. The pan is also clearanced for the rods in the same location as the block is.
              Yep...
              Past Builds;
              1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
              1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
              Current Project;
              1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by grimmcs View Post
                Deffinatly going to keep an eye on this, as I am curious about how you are going to try to keep the dizzy.
                Who said anything about keeping the dizzy? The truck already had DIS ignition from the hybrid, though I would like to use a dizzy, since it seems to be the way to make more power, due to there not being waste spark that way, that effects the exhaust gas velocity.

                So you are saying that I won't be ab;e to use the 3400 pans I have kicking around then.

                Comment


                • #9
                  If I can find the old pics I have of a 3500 and 3400 pan next to each other, I'll post it. Otherwise, I'll go and take another picture for you.
                  -Brad-
                  89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
                  sigpic
                  Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by The_Raven View Post

                    Other ideas for the swap:
                    -Custom dizzy to clear genIII intake manifold
                    -Custom intake to retain stock dizzy
                    I took this as you were going to try to make these for your project.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Didn't he say that
                      he was copy and
                      pasting from a older
                      thread he had written?

                      Why is it the first time I
                      looked at this thread, the
                      pics were re-sized and now
                      have to scroll horizontal,
                      just to read the posts?
                      Links:
                      WOT-Tech.com
                      FaceBook
                      Instagram

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                        Didn't he say that
                        he was copy and
                        pasting from a older
                        thread he had written?

                        Why is it the first time I
                        looked at this thread, the
                        pics were re-sized and now
                        have to scroll horizontal,
                        just to read the posts?

                        Because you didn't wait long enough for them to resize.

                        Grimmcs: Those are ideas, but probably not going to happen, at least not right away, I just want to get it running again, it's been far too long since I've driven the truck. If I have time in there to figure out how to make those ideas work before hand, then I will.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Because you didn't wait long enough for them to resize.
                          Maybe I have a setting wrong, but they never resized.

                          [/hijack]

                          It must be nice to have a dedicated work area like yours. Living in FL, it rains almost daily (of course as soon as I get done with work) and my garage is where I run my construction company from and only have about 10x10 left. Just enough room to work on the motor only .
                          Links:
                          WOT-Tech.com
                          FaceBook
                          Instagram

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                            Maybe I have a setting wrong, but they never resized.

                            [/hijack]

                            It must be nice to have a dedicated work area like yours. Living in FL, it rains almost daily (of course as soon as I get done with work) and my garage is where I run my construction company from and only have about 10x10 left. Just enough room to work on the motor only .
                            LOL, yeah it is nice, when I had space. That is currently the GFs garage, and she doesn't really like that the truck, and my other stuff is in there. If I could afford it, I would have a shop, that is much larger and beable to actually have all of my tools in one location, like I used to have. Just need to get some debt payed off first and then that can happen again.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Brad if you can find that pic for me, I would be greatly appreciative.

                              Comment

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