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Finally doing headers

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  • Finally doing headers

    For reference I'm doing headers from a GA in my L-body

    The Boringness....








    The hotness







    Only fitting them, not done yet...








    Sitting on the table












    It took me all night to get the manifolds out so all I did so far was test fit the front and see if there were any clearance problems. Only one I found was the dipstick needs to be tweaked to fit past the flange. Coolant heater core pipe should clear if properly attached to throttle body with bracket, so I need to replace mine, or just bend it.

    Still need to pull my downpipe out and then test fit the rear and see how much needs to be notched out to allow the header to bend down and clear the firewall... I'm hoping it wont be too much, and from the TOG header fit pics I saw it doesn't look like it was much that needed to be removed.

    So far, One broken manifold stud on the front... I really dont care because once fitted it only needs to last like 2 weeks before the whole motor is coming out.

    So what do you guys think I should see from this upgrade? 10? 20?

    Got Lope?
    3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
    Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
    Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
    12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

  • #2
    nice, hopefully your rear header lines up and is away from the firewall. Since those are designed for an N-body, maybe you'll be ok?
    Brian

    '95 Cutlass Supreme- "The Rig"
    3400 SFI V6, 4T60e
    Comp Cam grind, LS6 valve springs, OBD2 swap, Tuned
    2.5" DP/ 2.5" dual exh/ Magnaflow Cat/ crap mufflers/ 3500 Intake manifold/ 65mm TB
    TGP steering Rack/ 34mm Sway Bar/Vert STB/ KYB GR2's

    '08 Chevy Trailblazer SWB 1LT "Smart Package"- LH6 5.3L V8/4L60e, A4WD

    Comment


    • #3
      No he will still have to mod the heck out of the rear, the L body needs like a 45degree angle, the N body is more like straight out 65* or something.

      I say you'll get -14 hp from it. haha. Ok maybe not -14 but 14. But which engine are we talking about here? Not as good as long tubes, but sure will help that 3500 breathe better.

      BTW get rid of that ugly engine cover. Looks like a playskool toy got melted on top of the motor! haha
      sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
      1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
      16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
      Original L82 Longblock
      with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
      Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

      Comment


      • #4
        Hey those kinda look like these:




        I've got a w-body. The S&S headers fit great. I got them 2nd hand for really cheap.

        Comment


        • #5
          sure looks good.

          where can one buy those headers ??

          keep up the good work.

          B
          nothing's impossible-it's just a mindset

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by whitelightnin04MC View Post
            Hey those kinda look like these:




            I've got a w-body. The S&S headers fit great. I got them 2nd hand for really cheap.
            Did you cut your front flange to fit the stock gaskets and the oil dipstick??

            Mine goes right in the way of the dipstick and wont fit the gaskets because the whole flange is flat... and all ports are connected. See pic....

            But yes I already modified the rear and it fits... did about a 1/4" notch and bent the flange and it mates up fine now. Now I just need to hack up the 2-1 collector to angle the flange better....

            This will be on both motors, fitted to this one and then installed on the hybrid when its in... I figure I would get these in before that motor because its going to need them.

            This is not a job for the faint hearted... Hacking up a $500 investment is tough...

            bjornmk1 I got them from SSHeaders.com $514 IIRC

            Got Lope?
            3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
            Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
            Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
            12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

            Comment


            • #7
              Hmm, looks like those would work in an A-body. Maybe even without cutting.

              Comment


              • #8
                some people say that with supporting mods: TB, exhaust, tune, and cam the headers will add ~19hp.
                Andy

                sigpic

                fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
                fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70

                62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by torq455 View Post
                  some people say that with supporting mods: TB, exhaust, tune, and cam the headers will add ~19hp.
                  i'd say 20 HP on a stock engine.. with a cam and port work it'll help out alot more.
                  Past Builds;
                  1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
                  1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
                  Current Project;
                  1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    well the cam and ported motor will come after these are fitted...

                    As of right now I have fully modified the rear header so it can bolt to the motor and clear the firewall... I just need to hack off the end of the collector and start the bend right there, and then put the flang back on once is level... That will help with clearance on the sway bar. Then I just need to mate the cross over, I will be tweaking the front part since the rear cross over part is all tight together and I cant cut or weld it back together due to clearance problems.

                    I also need to clean up the inside of one of the primaries and then it should be good to go... I hope.

                    There are some close items back there and I think I need to either sheild them or move them so they are not so close.

                    Got Lope?
                    3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                    Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                    Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                    12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      yah, make sure you keep wires and stuff as far away as possible.. i had some wire loom melting and dripping plastic on the ground with mine last Saturday.

                      I ended up rewiring like 75% of the engine bay to keep stuff away from the headers, we'll see how that works out.
                      Past Builds;
                      1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
                      1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
                      Current Project;
                      1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        you guys should really wrap those badboys up :P

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by 3400-95-Modified View Post
                          Did you cut your front flange to fit the stock gaskets and the oil dipstick??

                          Mine goes right in the way of the dipstick and wont fit the gaskets because the whole flange is flat... and all ports are connected. See pic....

                          But yes I already modified the rear and it fits... did about a 1/4" notch and bent the flange and it mates up fine now. Now I just need to hack up the 2-1 collector to angle the flange better....

                          This will be on both motors, fitted to this one and then installed on the hybrid when its in... I figure I would get these in before that motor because its going to need them.

                          This is not a job for the faint hearted... Hacking up a $500 investment is tough...

                          bjornmk1 I got them from SSHeaders.com $514 IIRC

                          No cutting the flange here. I took tubing benders and bent the diptube outward. Then I just snaked it around the flange. I payed 400 for the ceramic coated headers w/ catted DP. The whole install took me about 10 hours. And i wasn't really rushing through it. That includes some welding and changing the plugs and wires.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            not bad at all!--the wrap i mean.
                            Andy

                            sigpic

                            fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
                            fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70

                            62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I haven't wrapped mine, I don't plan to take them off for any reason, unless I do heads and a cam. Nothing is close to the headers that I could see. I made sure everything was good and out of the way. Also, I haven't noticed a difference in temps or anything like that. The engine bay itself gets warm a little faster, but that's about it.

                              Comment

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