3500 swap questions

[bszopi]

You need to use a knock sensor that matches the PCM you are using. Otherwise, the filter isn't correct and you will get either false knock or you won't pick up knock when it occurs.

[PCGUY112887]

*sigh*

I'll say it again, the size of NPT tap is determined ny the INSIDE PIPE DIAMETER, NOT the thread diameter.

If you were to find a pipe that would thread into there, it would be 3/8" inside diameter.

Yes I know, look at the picture, look at the size of the inside pipe not the threads.

And bszopi yes I am using the stock knock sensor (just a replacement one for it).

[Guest]

Yes I know, look at the picture, look at the size of the inside pipe not the threads.

And bszopi yes I am using the stock knock sensor (just a replacement one for it).

How many times am I going to have to say this?

It's a 3/8" NPT thread. All I see is you placing a ruler beside the threads, I don't see any "inside pipe" in that picture, besieds, it's a sensor, NOT a pipe, so there will be no pipe ID to measure.

You know, it's not like I havent drilled and tapped for a CTS before, I've only had to do this operation several times, I also use a lot of pipe fittings and adaptors.

[PCGUY112887]

Well I went to the store and your right, it is 3/8", however you do not have to be an asshole about it. It's apparent that I still don't know how to measure this correctly. Sorry.

The 2 wire from the 3500 appears to be 1/4" NPS, however I can not find any NPS anything in stores around here.. it wants to thread into 1/4" adapters so that's why I say 1/4".

I guess the best thing WOULD actually be to tap the head... I just gotta learn how to tap now.

[Superdave]

this may help...

http://www.offroaders.com/info/tech-corner/taps-drills.htm

[Guest]

Well I went to the store and your right, it is 3/8", however you do not have to be an asshole about it. It's apparent that I still don't know how to measure this correctly. Sorry.

The 2 wire from the 3500 appears to be 1/4" NPS, however I can not find any NPS anything in stores around here.. it wants to thread into 1/4" adapters so that's why I say 1/4".

I guess the best thing WOULD actually be to tap the head... I just gotta learn how to tap now.

I'm an asshole, because, me being someone who knows the answer to the question you asked, told you the answer several times, and each time you questioned it, this is why I don't help people anymore, especially the ones with limted knowledge in the subject they are asking me about (mechanical or electrical, or anything else I happen to know about), and question me or argue with me about it, repeatedly, after giving explainations as to why it is the way it is.

Asking for further explaination is fine, but having to repeat the same explaination more than once is annoying.

Tapping isn't difficult, though tapping a taper thread takes some finese.

When tapping a staight thread, like that of a bolt, you run the tap all the way through or almost anyway, to cut the threads completly to form the receiver thread.

When tapping a taper thread you NEVER want to run it all the way through, otherwise you don't end up with a taper. You want to cut the thread as far as needed to have a taper and to allow the pipe thread that you are using to create a tight seal, which is the function of the taper, to create a seal, along with the pipe dope or tape (I prefer the pipe dope myself, since it won't break off and clog any small orifaces.).

I'll check my 3500 CTS, but from the pictures I've seen it looks like a 1/4 NPS thread, not very common, especially when it comes to adaptors. The other problem with using an adaptor here is that the temp probe will not be in the coolant flow, and may give an inacurate reading.

I haven't tried it personally but I do know of some people that have simply spliced the green wire into the yellow wire of a two wire CTS and not experianced any problems with temp readings. If you're that worried about drilling and tapping the head, just splice the green and yellow wires together and move onto other issues.

[PCGUY112887]

I was worried about too much draw from the 1 wire, but I can give it a shot... easier and cheaper than tapping my stuff out.

[SappySE107]

...this is why I don't help people anymore, especially the ones with limted knowledge in the subject they are asking me about (mechanical or electrical, or anything else I happen to know about), and question me or argue with me about it, repeatedly, after giving explainations as to why it is the way it is.

Goodbye chris. This is the elitist attitude I was talking about. You claim to feel "lower' than me because of how I post, and then you post bullshit like this. In short, im done playing kids games since you demand maturity. You are no longer welcome on this site. You can stop helping on other sites.

[PCGUY112887]

OK more stuff.

Here is what has to happen for S&S headers to fit with a w-body motor mount.





Was fairly simple, just marked what had to come off with a marker and used a grinder to take it down. Took a few times to get it all, but the headers clear now and I think that the mount will still be strong enough to hold up. It will almost be touching the header but not quite when I put it back together, but I think almost touching is better than taking off anymore material, or hacking up brand new headers.

Also... what are these 2 things?

I know where I pulled this out and what connects to it, but what does it actually do?


The piece in the center of this picture is what I am curious about. It's just a rubber 90* boot that goes over a plastic hard line, and has a hole in the top of the boot that something may have went though (that I don't remember disconnecting).

[PCGUY112887]

Also.. how close does this alignment have to be?


Pic thanks to Superdave. My wheel is a mm or 2 out further from the engine block and doesn't line up perfectly like Superdaves... however I can not get my crank pulley to go in any further to make the alignment perfect. I am afraid to try to use a breaker bar to really turn the bolt to bring it in more, afraid the bolt may break off or something since a bar a few feet long is required to move it well.

[CNCguy]

Alignment should be pretty close to center, within 1mm would be fine. My concern is whether the dampener is all the way back since you said is takes a long breaker bar to move it. It should come to a stop when all the way on. If it takes that much force to put it on, it sounds like there may be some burrs or other issues that are causing it to be too tight. The dampeners fit tight but yours sounds too tight.

If it is all the way back and the wheel is not centered, you can put some thin washers under the CPS mount to move the CPS out to center of the wheel.

[PCGUY112887]

It's not that the CPS is too close to the block, it's that it's too FAR from the block, so washers would only make it worse.

I'll take a pic tonight.

[CNCguy]

It's not that the CPS is too close to the block, it's that it's too FAR from the block, so washers would only make it worse.

I'll take a pic tonight.

Not to be a smartass but thats not what you said. You said "My wheel is a mm or 2 out further from the engine block and doesn't line up perfectly like Superdaves... however I can not get my crank pulley to go in any further to make the alignment perfect. I am afraid to try to use a breaker bar to really turn the bolt to bring it in more, afraid the bolt may break off or something since a bar a few feet long is required to move it well."

Done

[bszopi]

Concerning your questions... The top pic is the Evap Purge Solenoid, and it goes on the back side of the engine below the coil packs. The second pic is just the drain line for the heater core drip pan. That is all it is supposed to be, so no need to worry there.

[Superdave]

That pic of mine was actually with the old style trigger wheel. With the re-designed wheel i had to take about 1/8" off the "legs" of the CPS to get it to line up right.

clearance should be around .020-.030". I set mine so i could fit a business card in between and it works great...