3500 swap questions

[bszopi]

Yes, you need to do a CASE learn. IIRC, there is a procedure on how to do it over on GAGT, so you might do a search over there for it.

[PCGUY112887]

Yes the metal is held down with the bolts... I don't hear a vac leak but hell it's hard to hear anything. Exhaust is going on tomorrow so we'll see.

I am running 97 Venture code, with the injector table turned down to match my injectors (DOHC injectors at 55psi).

Now it will stay alive when I slow way down and come to a stop, however it is still hard to start. It turns over fine but if I don't rev it a few times it dies right away. It didn't do this all of the other times I started it, only till I left it running to get hot. As soon as I rev a few times it idles fine. Laptop shows idle going from about 600-800rpm's at idle due to the cam. Only reason I can think of it starting hard is due to the crank needing learned...

Does anyone know what I have to do to a CASE learn? Not being able to do it with other DTC's set is really starting to piss me off... I wish I knew what it tells me to do once I hit that button.

[IsaacHayes]

Hmm, no idea about the EGR if it's no longer there... LOL The metal is it held down with the bolts and sealed good?

Are you still running the stock 3100 code? Or have you put 3400 code in there? I don't remember what injectors you went with either.

Try disconnecting the battery over night then hooking it back up to help reset everything.

[PCGUY112887]

EGR is totally removed, spot on manifold has a piece of metal on it with a gasket and a bit of RTV. Spot on headers is plugged.

On the Powrtuner forums it said all I had to do to disable EGR was set it's low temp limit to something real high so it could never kick on, they suggested 250*C so I used it. Granted those instructions were for newer GTP's, it seems like it should still work the same.

I need to do a damn CASE learn, it keeps yelling about needing to learn the crank, but the option never comes up since other DTC's are set. It may want to die due to that as well. It has issues keeping alive when I slow down real slow... but it seems to be getting better... maybe just learning fuel trims.

[SappySE107]

If the EGR is not closed, you will have issues. I am not sure if you need to disable anything else besides when to use the EGR, but it sounds like there is another routine that checks it regardless. If your EGR is removed completely, then I don't know why its shutting down.

[PCGUY112887]

OK update days later...

Haven't messed with it a whole lot since it's been so hot, but I have been playing with it today trying to get all of the air out of the cooling system. I got a new machined ECT sensor in there and I wired it perfectly. It reads temps both on the computer and in the dash so that is good, no system voltage DTC's so that is good as well, however I do get "ECT Lamp Fault" code. Don't know why, it seems to be working fine.

I am also getting EGR Position Performance code, even though the EGR is set to be disabled till 250*C

I started it up, ran it till it got fairly hot, decided there is too much air in the system so I shut it down, waited till it gets fairly cool and I start it up again and it shuts it's self right back off. Had to crank it a time or 2 for it to start up again, then rev the gas a bit to keep it going. After that it stayed alive by it's self just fine. It seemed to set the EGR code at the same time it did this. Could it dieing be due to the EGR code, or is something else wrong?

[PCGUY112887]

Professional screwout FTW

Really everything that Sears and Home Depot sucked... I could get a drywall screw out with their stuff and a drill but with this, a 12pt 10mm socket went on the end and it came right out.

[Superdave]

Confirmed by my machine shop.. 12mm x 1.5 pitch


i guess if this one starts leaking i can take them another one...


Later on tonight i'll see if I can get it started and warm it up...

[IsaacHayes]

Yeah I would of done a pre test like Jon said. But I guess it went in without breaking. You can go to Ace hardware and they have a board hanging up where you can try different nuts or bolts to verify what threading you have. That's what I did when I went to get the bolts for my 3500 UIM. I ended up going to FastenAll store though to special order them though for the right length. I could of gone with shorter ones that Ace had, but I wanted to get it as close as possible to stock length.

[Superdave]

do a good torque test on that sucker on a 12 x 1.5 nut before sending it in to make sure it's not going to snap off in there like PCGUY

you should edit your old posts.. i believe it is infact 1.5 pitch instead of 1.25 I'll take my old one to the machine shop and double check though...


mine's installed with a bunch of RTV on the threads, it should hold.... i hope

[3400-95-Modified]

do a good torque test on that sucker on a 12 x 1.5 nut before sending it in to make sure it's not going to snap off in there like PCGUY

[Superdave]

just picked mine up from the shop...



No charge (since they broke the first one)

[walterdude]

Been following this. Think you're a bit frustrated,,, take a breath or two!!! Better?? Now it seems that the center of the sensor broke leaving just the threads in the engine,, right??? Well you don't need to drill anything,,, you've already got the hole.. The only reason you'd need a drill is if whatever broke was solid,, like a bolt. Find an easy-out that will go in the hole,, not ALL the way in,,, just enough to get a good grip. Maybe a 1/4 of the way. Give it a tap to seat it in there. Use a tap wrench, open end wrench or a socket to hold the easy-out by the square on top and give it a turn. It doesn't sound like you over torqued it so it should come right out. You could even give it a shot of Liquid Wrench or equivalent if you wanted. I doubt if anything will break off and fall in.
I really think it will come out so easy you'll be surprised!!
Hope this helps!!
Tom

[PCGUY112887]

I know that is what an easyout is designed for... but as I said earlier there is no possible way to get a drill in there to use an easyout. I would have to pull the engine, or pull the head off, or somehow rig up a long ass flex to do it.

Dunno, depends if I can ever get this thing outta there.

I think I am going to take a bolt that fits as tight as I can get and JBWeld it in, then pray I can twist it out with a wrench when it dries. I did go ahead and stick a screwdriver in there however I could not feel anything I could "grip" onto.

Can anyone think of any last resort option to get this out, that does not involve taking the engine out or apart? I am afraid that if I JBWeld this in and it doesn't come out for some reason, I am going to wind up with a bolt stuck in my head via JBWeld. Or that I am going to twist and the "body" of the sensor that is stuck inside is going to break and fall into the cooling system and down into the block. How bad would that be?

Use an easy out, use an easy out. It is designed for that kind of problem. If the piece falls into the cylinder head water jacket area I doubt it will cause any problem whatsoever as it is unlikely to be able to close off any passage and it will never make it past the radiator into the water pump not to mention the thermostat.