3500 swap questions

[3400-95-Modified]

Disable the EGR yes... to remove it No, you need to remove associated codes as well since its still going to want to see it there closed.

You didnt make me mad its just a few other dopes on Bstuff that are driving me nuts.

[PCGUY112887]

Ah I get it now, thanks.

Sorry 3400 for making you mad, I may really need your help since it's hard to read the tuning guides made for non-swapped 3800's

[IsaacHayes]

Disable EGR = stop it from opening up. (shut it off)
Remove EGR = different story.

And Jon, probably those people say it it's tuned to perfection meaning they drive it and it runs without dying, and thats it. Probably not paying attention to the data logs... lol

[PCGUY112887]

If you read the DHP forum in the FAQ section, it says all I have to do to disable EGR was set it's temp to a high temp and I will have no problems. I figured I could just get rid of the code but I wanted to be sure of what I was doing first.

I replied on powertuner as well.

Thanks!

[3400-95-Modified]

you dont have the EGR plugged in????

If so then thats why your getting that code, I replied on www.powrtuner.com as well

If you unplugged your EGR you need to go through and shut off ALL egr related codes, as well as turn the enable temp way up.

Your LTFT and STFT should both be 0 when in PE mode at WOT, and should also be as close to 0 as possible at all times. Right now your ECM is adding 7% fuel at idle to get it to the right a/f mixture and 10+ when you reved it a little... You need to start with a VE tune since the bin file your working with is not the VE of a 3500, especially with a cam, and then move on to a MAF tune, and then finally spark stuff.

Get rid of the 1.5 file, go back to stock and work from there, thats your best bet. the 1.5 sucks.

Looking at your video I see NO EGR, so really thats a Stupid question... since there is NO unit there reporting its position how in the hell is the ECM supposed to be happy??

I'm venting right now but lately a few people who have purchased a DHP tuner are driving me nuts, they are doing stuff and not following through with their bin and properly editing it to reflect their changes... Someone I know did a crazy cam and he already said he has it tuned to near perfection?!!?! Yet I never saw him post a single question on the powrtuner forum... and not long before that he was asking me how to remove codes... I dont see how he could have mastered tuning with no input, and he also said he didnt need to change much at all... Which i find to be complete bull. [/end rant]

And please post the code numbers so we can try to help.

[IsaacHayes]

Wild guess here, maybe it detects the dummy light for overheated engine coolant? Maybe the bulb is blown. Does it come on when you turn the key to on? I know BMW's etc will sense when a tail light/etc goes out. Maybe it's some weird thing like that for the dummy light?? Maybe GM thinks its *that* important to have that dummy light work for the general population that can't read a temp gauge.

Another wild guess, try connecting the EGR to the harness. Maybe it has to close it on startup to be happy then it will never open it or something. Or disconnect the battery overnight if you haven't tried that. Seriously it could be as simple as it remembered it last as open and it's trying to close it and it's not there so it freaks out. Might have to bolt it to the plenum with the block off plate between it and keep it plugged in.

[PCGUY112887]

Log file, idle bit of rev towards the end... don't really know what I am looking at

I know my LTFT and STFT should be close, but their no where close.

I didn't start to get any misfires till I went to the 1.5 file...

[PCGUY112887]

OK, got the car back. It hasn't leaked since he said it was leaking... I dunno if they are full of it or what but I had them replace the filter anyways. Old one was fairly rusted, and it was full of black goop.

Got the car home, it sounds AWESOME. Seems to run better too... O2 sensor was probably reading weird due to no exhaust.

Flashed a 97 Venture DHP 1.5 file on it, adjusted to my fuel injectors and EGR disabled. Now I am getting some misfires, you can't hear/feel them but the scanner showed them. No KR at idle.

Still have 3 codes, 1 for crank position, 2 for ECT lamp fault, and 3 for EGR position performance. I don't understand #2 or #3. I mean wtf is a lamp fault? It's wired correctly, gives temp to the computer and dash, but I get a code for it.

Then #3, the EGR isn't even supposed to be able to turn on, I don't know how it can give a code.

I can't fix #1 till #2 and #3 are resolved. I am tempted to just disable reporting of those 2 codes, but I didn't wanna without being sure it would be OK. #2 is what really puzzles me.

Maybe this is an issue of having a 97 PCM in a 96 car?

[PCGUY112887]

I don't see how it could be cracked though, when I was looking at it I was shaking it all around and feeling up as far as I could and no gas would come out, everything was dry.

Hopefully they will just stick on the new filter and it won't leak any for now, since they won't even let me leave with the car unless I tow it out. The exhaust stops right across from where it was "leaking" and they don't want it started anywhere around there.

Any other ideas of something quick and simple I can do while it's stuck up there? I wouldn't mind just having the whole line replaced, but they can't do it (it's only an exhaust/brake shop) and I don't want to have to have it towed around.

[wasas9]

Im sure the hose is just cracked man. It's a simple fix even if you have to drop the tank and get new rubber/plastic fuel lines.

[PCGUY112887]

Well now I have another issue... I was having my exhaust put on and they had to stop about half way. Apparently my fuel filter started to pour gas all over their install bay. It stopped right after but they were too afraid to weld anymore so they stopped and hosed the bay down to get rid of the fumes. They called and I went and looked at it, the filter looks original. They said it was comming from where the hose connects to the filter. I gave them a new filter to stick on there Monday (they were just closing today) but 1 guy is afraid that it was actually leaking from where the rubber line connects to that metal piece that clips over the fuel filter.

I went to Advanced looking for a solution and I was told it was very rare to leak from where the rubber line connects to the metal, and if I did have to repair that then I'll have to buy a repair kit and it will be a big mess to fix.

Suggestions? Right now it's sitting locked up at the exhaust shop till Monday, and they won't touch it till they know it isn't going to leak anymore.

[IsaacHayes]

The starting issue could be the 24x CASE, but also could be related to the cam. Maybe 3400-95-modified could help with that aspect, I think he said running the 3100 tables helped with the cam over the 3400, but then I'm sure he tweaked stuff more...

I edited my previous post to be more specific. Sorry for the hijack. Just hungry for more knowledge haha

[PCGUY112887]

It's been OBD2, it's a 96 car with a 97 PCM.

[bszopi]

Are you asking for yourself? Cause he stated he's running 97 Venture code now, so its OBD2.

[IsaacHayes]

How do you do a CASE learn on OBD1.5? Stealership?

EDIT yes, a little off topic. Always wondered about 3400 swaps and UDP's what people did. sorry I sometimes get sidetracked and think/type out loud haha.