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3500 swap questions
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Oil pump drive has to be removed first as the gear on it is meshed with your cam gear. Not sure but the specs are probably the same.
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OK just got everything out (aside from the cam it's self), some of the LIM gasket is RTV'ed to the block and such and they were also RTV'ed to the valve cover gaskets, had to break em. The gasket looks OK to reuse, but one of the orange seats ripped apart
Anyways I took the little cover for the cam off, and I pull the cam and it comes about half of an inch and stops, you hear it hit something. I ensure I left no rollers in there and try again, same thing. Does the oil pump drive need to come out or is there something else holding it?
Also does anyone have torque specs for the 3500 for when I put this thing back together? Or are they the same as the 3400/3100?
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OK I see that the LIM has to come off now to get to the lifters, I was trying to leave it on...
Can the LIM gasket and everything be reused? I know they added those little guides so you don't have to RTV the bottom of the LIM, but if I'm careful will it all be reused?
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It is 7484, it's hard to read and I missed the top part of the 7 :-p
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To get the lifters out, you will need to unbolt the lifter retainers from the block (under the LIM). Sometimes the lifters will stay with the retainer and come out that way. Otherwise, you just have to grab them or use a magnet to get them out.
Oh, and case you didn't know, or you haven't seen it on the site before, remember to keep the pushrods in the correct order.
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by PCGUY112887 View Post1484 then 4032410
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Guest repliedI usually block the flywheel to get it loose. Nothing will fly off from behind the gear.
What do the numbers on the end of your crank read.
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OK I got the crank pulley off with a nice 3 jaw puller. Now I got the timing cover off.
Here is where I am unsure of what happens next. I think stick something through a hole in the top gear here and torque the bolt in the center off. I have no idea what is under that, or how the cam comes out of there. I know I gotta pull the push rods out of the valve covers... will the lifters be attached to them or do the lifters come out a different way?
Just wanna ensure I am doing things right since I have no one else to ask, and I don't wanna take apart stuff I don't need to!
Thanks.
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by PCGUY112887 View PostI'll use my old one if it's easier to get on/off later.
Thanks, I'll go hunt down a 3 jaw puller today!
The 3500 balancer is also a little larger in diameter so installing the 3400 pulley will give you a little under drive.
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I'll use my old one if it's easier to get on/off later.
Thanks, I'll go hunt down a 3 jaw puller today!
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I used a 3 jaw puller to get my 3500 pully off, worked perfect.
the new style TCE external trigger will work with that pully as well (if you plan on using it)
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Guest repliedOriginally posted by bszopi View PostInteresting, as that is not like the old 3x00 style pulley. The old style had a threaded hole in each arm. The harmonic balancer puller should be able to do the trick though.
Not without making some adaptors.
The Harmonic balancer puller is designed for balancers that have threaded holes to use bolts to attach each part to.
A 3 jaw puller, with the jaws behind each cutout and some sort of die in the middle to keep the puller from pushing into the crank, much like what the balancer puller would have would work.
I bet Snap-On and Mac have tools designed just for this very application, as well as the couple other engines I've seen with similar pulleys/balancers.
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Interesting, as that is not like the old 3x00 style pulley. The old style had a threaded hole in each arm. The harmonic balancer puller should be able to do the trick though.
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