3500 swap questions

[Superdave]

black is ground by the way. green to the gauge and yellow to the ECM



Just got a call from my machine shop, apparently the CTS's are very cheaply made.. they broke it


He said he'd pay for another one, i just gotta bring it down.

[wasas9]

black is ground by the way. green to the gauge and yellow to the ECM



Just got a call from my machine shop, apparently the CTS's are very cheaply made.. they broke it


He said he'd pay for another one, i just gotta bring it down.

how much is that costing you dave to have it turned down?

If it's more than 10$ then id say that adaptor i got is a great piece.

[3400-95-Modified]

You can only turn it down a little... too far and yes then you cut into where its bored out for the sensor wires. Notice how in my pic the thread length is very short in comparison to a stock one. Use the thread count for reference as far as how far back I turned it. There is only about 4 threads on there IIRC... After that was done he just trimmed off the old threads to make it look neat.




Mine was a freebie

[Superdave]

I emailed them that exact picture...

i'd get the adapter but all the carquest stores around here say they just can't get it.. they can special order it from the factory but that could take weeks...

[PCGUY112887]

You sure it isn't M12x1.5? I had my uncle take it to work and he measured out M12x1.5 and cut it to that, haven't put it all the way in yet but it seems to fit.

Here is mine...
Machined sensor on top (machined all of the stock threads down, didn't hit any wires?)

Stock 3500 sensor in the middle

Stock 3 wire sensor on the bottom.

[PCGUY112887]

I really do have the worse luck...

GUESS WHERE THE OTHER HALF IS!

How in the HELL am I going to fix this now?!? Either I SOMEHOW get all of the threads out (which are fairly flush with the head btw), or I JBWeld this SOB on there and hope I never have to replace it (it is brand new).

I should have just waited for the fucking adapter...

[IsaacHayes]

LOL sorry. Can you get anything in there to pinch and untwist it? damn. Must be screwed hard in there too.

[3400-95-Modified]

Use an easy out, there is already a hole in the middle of it for the sensor.

THIS IS WHY I SAID DONT TURN DOWN THE WHOLE THREAD AREA!!!!!!!!!!

Same reason why daves fell apart.

ONLY thread it in about 4 threads worth of space, so measure that out and then you'll know.

[Superdave]

mine just broke on the lathe, not because they were threadding it all the way.. they only had about 1/4" or so cut down...


I had a stock LS1 sensor break off in the head when i was assembling the engine, i freaked for like 5 minutes.. then just used a small flat head screwdriver to turn it out.. came out easier than it went in.

[PCGUY112887]

Use an easy out, there is already a hole in the middle of it for the sensor.

THIS IS WHY I SAID DONT TURN DOWN THE WHOLE THREAD AREA!!!!!!!!!!

Same reason why daves fell apart.

ONLY thread it in about 4 threads worth of space, so measure that out and then you'll know.

But wouldn't an easy out just end up breaking the rest of the brass off inside the engine? Unless there is an easyout made to go onto a screwdriver, there is no way I am getting a drill in there. Remember, I am in an engine bay putting my hands around a header crossover. I saw your warning, but after it was already done.

It isn't screwed in hard, as soon as the base of the sensor touched the head it fell apart. I knew not to torque it hard, but it was barely any torque at all.

Superdave how did you use a screwdriver?

I feel like I'm going to puke

There HAS to be a way to get this out without pulling the engine to get to the head.

[Joseph Upson]

But wouldn't an easy out just end up breaking the rest of the brass off inside the engine? Unless there is an easyout made to go onto a screwdriver, there is no way I am getting a drill in there. Remember, I am in an engine bay putting my hands around a header crossover. I saw your warning, but after it was already done.

It isn't screwed in hard, as soon as the base of the sensor touched the head it fell apart. I knew not to torque it hard, but it was barely any torque at all.

Superdave how did you use a screwdriver?

I feel like I'm going to puke

There HAS to be a way to get this out without pulling the engine to get to the head.

Like Superdave said, a flat tip screw driver should take it out, make sure you use one in like new condition with square edges that can bite down into the brass, you should be able to tap it in a little to make grip marks in the sensor tube. If you can find one use a screw driver that is not much larger than the hole so that you have a larger contact area with the screw driver. I had to do this once to remove the threaded area of an IAC motor that I broke off in a throttle body.

[3400-95-Modified]

You can use an easy out with a tap handle or adjustable wrench too, you don't need a drill.

And your front header isnt easy to remove??

Mine that is the easiest one to take out, 8 bolts, and voila slides right out easier than the old manifold and cross over that was there.

[PCGUY112887]

With mine, I have to remove the AC compressor, motor mount, then undo 2 near impossible bolts because they bent the tubes in such a way that the studs don't go right on, the nut on the studs hits the header so you have to put it on very very VERY carefully with some force and scratch the header to get it on. Then the crossover has to come off too.

[Joseph Upson]

With mine, I have to remove the AC compressor, motor mount, then undo 2 near impossible bolts because they bent the tubes in such a way that the studs don't go right on, the nut on the studs hits the header so you have to put it on very very VERY carefully with some force and scratch the header to get it on. Then the crossover has to come off too.

When you have a situation like that you can put a small ding in the header tube or go to home depot and buy some of their steel tubing in the diameter needed to fit the stud, cut off a short sleeve and put it on before the nut so that you don't have to screw it all the way down to the flange. Make sure you paint the sleeve with high temp paint or it will rust over the years.

[3400-95-Modified]

Or use short alan head socket screws... Stainless of course Mine are so easy to get out... I said f those studs when I saw the clearances.