3500 swap questions

[PCGUY112887]

How did you rig yours? I would put a breather on there... if I had one that fit in there :P

The transmission bracket, I just enlonged the holes on the transmission mount. I got the 3 bolts into the transmission in, and the top 2 bolts into the block, however the bottom bolt is no where near going into the oil pan. It basically is pressing against the oil pan so if I wanted to weld something up for it to bolt on, I would have had to bend up the bracket. So I just left the bottom oil pan bolt out... I hope it will be OK!

I didn't have to bend the throttle bracket too much... but may be it bent more than I thought so I will check it out when I get home (working late )

[IsaacHayes]

Silicone :P Probably not the best if it were to flake off into the valve cover. The PVC one I had to rig too to stay in the intake manifold, I put some cut rubber hose to help press down more than the throttle linkage bracket does.

Hmm only 2 bolts into the motor, it might twist with just the top two?

[PCGUY112887]

Well it's not actually 2 on top, on top of the bracket yes but their like : not --

I sure hope it holds, I dunno what i'll do if it doesn't work. How would I know if it doesn't work? when my tranny twists away from my engine hah...

[wasas9]

you could just run a 3500 breather like i am lol. it fits very nicely in my intake.

[PCGUY112887]

MUAHAHAAH IT'S ALIVE!!!

Damn does it sound nuts... i'll get a video ASAP.

Codes it's throwing... Engine Coolant Temp sensor. It is reading in the dash fine, but the cars computer is getting nothing but -39* and both fans turn on.... but the guage in the dash moves around. It revs the engine to 1400rpm's as well like it's supposed to when it read it being cold.

Crank Position Sensor - I don't know if it's throwing this anymore because now every time I try to scan it, Powrtuner crashes. It runs "fine" though which is confusing.

5v Refrence - No idea wtf it means, doesn't give me anymore info. Again it may not do it anymore, I can no longer read DTC's from the car.

I read on the Powrtuner forums that with a 97 flash like this, I have to clear the DTC's right after I flash it because the program sets a DTC after flash for some reason, then crashes when you try to scan it. I did ensure I cleared them, and I read codes fine after the first start and shutdown, but now it crashes everytime I try to read.

[3400-95-Modified]

Clear the codes again and then do another read while its running. Ive had it crash a few times when doing it with only the key on.

Clear them with key on only though The start it and see what you got.

5v ref, means there is something messed up with the reference signal that the cam, crank, and tps sensors use, so I would check all your wiring to be sure something isnt crossed somewhere.

[PCGUY112887]

OK that scan worked, here is what I have (couldn't see the whole name...)


0118 ECT Sensor High Voltage

1336 Crankshaft Position System Variation Not Learned

Do I need to do a CASE learn or something?

[IsaacHayes]

Sounds like perhaps the ECT wiring is messed up (shorted or open circuit). That may be the 5v Ref code as well... You do have the 24x sensor hooked up with the tone ring on the harmonic balancer right? I guess it needs a case learn, I have no idea how to do that, I'm guessing the powertunr can. What does everyone do about this that swaps 3400's/etc in their cars? Does it eventually go away? Does this set an SES light?

[PCGUY112887]

The wiring for the ECT is probably screwed up... I thought I spliced it fine but maybe it pulled apart some on me.

Yes I have the 24x sensor hooked up and it has the 3100 crank pulley on it so it should be reading fine...

I thought the Powrtuner could do it, however I can't find the option.

EDIT - Ah no wonder I can't do it...

http://digitalhorsepower.helpserve.com/index.php?_m=knowledgebase&_a=viewarticle&kbarticleid=8&nav=0,2

Says the function will be disabled if the engine is too cool, and if there are any other DTC's set...

I read somewhere that doing the learn involves revving up to 3krpm's, then 6krpm's.... that sounds scary to do on this engine since there is really no tune on it.

[IsaacHayes]

Solder the wires, and use heatshrink tubing. If not you are asking for trouble later down the road.. You don't want a iffy connection on a sensor.

[PCGUY112887]

I used heatshrink but no solder, I'll look at it soon here.

I took a video and some pictures on my digital camera, i'll post it this evening.

[IsaacHayes]

Oh man, so you just twisted them together and heatshrinked it? LOL yeah no wonder you got problems!!!! Re-do your Map connector too!!! It's not that hard to solder, just practice on some spare wire first as you can melt back the insulation too much if you take too long at it. A cheapie radio shack iron is what I use even for tiny tiny tiny circuit board stuff.

Just twisting them can cause resistance and corrosion and thus you will have a lower signal reading than what it should be. Won't help tuning or driveability at all.

[PCGUY112887]

Oh I didn't know they were that sensitive...

I am a computer tech, I can solider quite well

[PCGUY112887]

Humm WTF...

Took it out, solidered it all nice, put it back, and once again I got ECT high voltage, and this time I got a "System Voltage" DTC.

I'm starting to think maybe I can't splice the 2 signal wires together?

[whitelightnin04MC]

I will take a pic of the setup in my 1988.

The 3100 in the Grand Prix uses the motor mount below the harmonic balancer, and the 2 torque struts.

You kinda need the 2, but I honestly feel that if you replace the stock hydraulic motor mount with the solid rubber one, then you can get away with using only 1 of the torque struts.

There is no way to use the passenger side torque strut with the headers. Been there, done that. We thought we had found a way to do it, but I ended up cracking the boss on the front head.

This is what you get when you try to do things the WRONG WAY.

This might be reviving an old portion of this thread, but what you are saying is complete crap. I have a 2nd gen w-body with S&S headers and have retained both of my dogbone mounts. You have to notch out maybe 3/4 of an inch of the steel strut mount bracket. It works perfectly fine. If anyone wants a pic for reference, I'll be glad to get one in a little while when I get around to moving this morning.