3500 swap questions

[bszopi]

Yes, there are 2 "guides" on the block that go into the tranny. Get a screwdriver or something to pry the engine and tranny apart.

Bottom left corner and middle right:

Whatever you decide make sure you are patient, frustration breaks things costs more money and makes more work.

[PCGUY112887]

It may have been easier to pull both out if I had researched what all had to be done to get the tranny out with it. Basically since I have never done anything like this before, I researched everything I possible could so I knew exactly what had to be done. I have been fine till this point.

Since the flex plate bolts and bellhousing bolts are already out, it's probably easier to go ahead and get it out like this, as soon as I can figure out how. So far I have...

Possibility of guides going between the engine/tranny, causing my to have to slide the engine to the left before I can do anything.

Possibility of another mount somewhere on the right side of the engine.

Possibility that I am missing something totally different, or it really is just stuck on here this bad.

2 lines to the tranny to unscrew, the shift cable snaps on, electronics plug in, and if you are careful to keep it fairly level you might not spill any tranny fluid, especially if you plug the holes with plastic or a caps. It's been some years now, but I swapped out a bad 3300 for a relative and that's what I did. You are probably at the point of no return now but given the trouble you are having I believe you would have had it all out by now pulling it as an assembly.

[PCGUY112887]

I did remove that bracket on the pass side axle... I did not see any other bracket but I will look.

I am told there are guides that hold the tranny inplace with the block as well.

See http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.ph...,61326.15.html as well, it's my thread on w-body.

[CNCguy]

Did you undo the bracket between the engine and trans near the pass side axle? Also, some vehicles have a bracket from the engine block to the bellhousing.

[PCGUY112887]

Ok how do I pop the axles out then? Then I have to drain the whole tranny, disconnect the shift lines, undo all electrical, undo the mount then somehow raise the entire tranny out of the engine bay? I don't see how that is easier considering I have no idea where any of that is on the tranny.

OK how in the HELL do you separate the engine and the tranny? Everything on the list from wbody is done, the mount bolts come out when I start to lift, but I lift and I can't shake the tranny lose from the engine. The bracket is off and all 6 bolts/studs are out of the bellhousing, the 3 bolts are off the torque converter/flywheel, it just don't break lose. I shake and shake, twist, turn, it's VERY stuck. If I keep just pulling up, the axles start to become very stressed at the boot so I have to let it back down so I don't tear it.

There has to be some trick to this?!?

As mentioned earlier, take the engine and transmission out together, it should be quicker and easier to work with that way, you should be able to pop the axles out of the tranny once the assembly is raised a little. You might be able to install the engine with just the back side header installed, but I wouldn't try it with both unless you can assure there is proper clearance, other wise you may bend or break something.

If you get a good solvent that can clean the grease your fingers have left all over the headers a good couple cans of HT paint should be fine, I would take some 600 grit sand paper to the critical upper tube areas where all the heat is first to give the paint something to stick to, the sandpaper won't put much of a dent in the metal but it will help the paint grab on and stay on for the curing process. If the tubing is at least 16 gauge you shouldn't have a problem with it at least not for a very long time. My Edelbrock headers were 16 ga and came with uncured HT paint on them and they ran for about 9yrs before I had a minor problem that I caused with them.

[PCGUY112887]

OK how in the HELL do you separate the engine and the tranny? Everything on the list from wbody is done, the mount bolts come out when I start to lift, but I lift and I can't shake the tranny lose from the engine. The bracket is off and all 6 bolts/studs are out of the bellhousing, the 3 bolts are off the torque converter/flywheel, it just don't break lose. I shake and shake, twist, turn, it's VERY stuck. If I keep just pulling up, the axles start to become very stressed at the boot so I have to let it back down so I don't tear it.

There has to be some trick to this?!?

[PCGUY112887]

Why won't painted work? (Duplicolor 1200* flat black is what I was going to use).

Also the tranny is staying in the car. I have learned how to take it out from here...

http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php/topic,61326.0.html

Basically to leave the trans in the car I take off the starter, look up and undo the 3 bolts that connect the torque converter to the flywheel. Then I can take off the bellhousing bolts and take the engine out while leaving the tranny in the car. I picked this option because it's easier, quicker, and I don't have to disconnect my axles!

My question was about how I align the torque converter and flywheel back together when I put the 3500 so I can get the bolts back in through where I took them out.

[Superdave]

i'd send those headers off to be jet-hot coated for sure. they'll start rusting after the first run if not...


not sure about your trans problem, i'd pull the engine/tranny together that way you can undo the bellhousing bolts and slide the tranny off the engine on the floor..

[PCGUY112887]

Ok how in the world do I undo the bolts connecting the torque converter to the flywheel? I got the starter out, I can see the 3 bolts as I crank the engine around, I can get on em with an 18mm socket but I just don't have any room to wrench. Either I am hitting the AC lines and shit, or I may be able to go all the way out to where the oil filter is and torque there... or use an air ratchet.

[PCGUY112887]

Yay I just got my headers and my Powrtuner!

Only 1 problem with the headers.... they forgot to paint them :-/

They are totally bare metal, looks like they were welded and put in a box, metal dust/scrap all over inside.

Can I even attach these to the engine, then lower the engine into the car or do they have to be put in after? I thought I could put both on and lower but now it looks like I may be only be able to do the front if i'm lucky, then SOMEHOW do the back while in the car.

[bszopi]

Those are the valve seals.

And yeah, you basically got it.

[PCGUY112887]

Humm that kinda helps me. He makes it seem like you just push the spring down, and the keeper somehow magically comes off, then the spring somehow comes off, then you do the same in reverse with the new spring

Anymore info/details?

Also what is this? 2 bags of them came with my GM gasket set.