Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

3500 swap questions

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Originally posted by PCGUY112887 View Post
    Where did you order the adapter from? Does it look like coolant will be able to flow around the sensor at all? Will the sensor "probe rod" part that sticks out even fit into the adapter?
    Don't know for sure, but i assume coolant will flow in and out decent enough for a good read.

    I bought it at a local Car-quest auto parts store. The guy at the counter was really surprised that they even carried that kind of adaptor lol.

    update with pics. adaptor cost 13$
    Attached Files
    Last edited by wasas9; 07-20-2007, 03:11 PM.

    Comment


    • Does anyone think it's possible that the stock 3500 CTS is calibrated differently than the stock 3.1 CTS?


      I ask because my 3500 gets to operating temp pretty fast.. then averages about 3/4 up the gauge which should be just over 200F.. the thermostat is actually 180F and my fan turn-on temps are set there as well...

      in my stock 93 3.1 the same exact cluster and the car hardly gets to 1/4 gauge with a 195 thermostat.




      I guess i can try to rig up an old 3.1 CTS in the system somewhere... maybe in the heater core lines or something...
      Past Builds;
      1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
      1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
      Current Project;
      1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

      Comment


      • ill let you know next week dave.

        Comment


        • Just check resistance of both at the same temp? I should have both lying around.
          Ben
          60DegreeV6.com
          WOT-Tech.com

          Comment


          • i think it might just be the gauge. i was reading my temp right from the ecu and it was right where it should be and it reads the same on my autometer water temp.

            Comment


            • it is located in a different location if you used that stock area... I noticed mine reads higher under certain conditions but that could also be a result of uncoated headers in my engine bay heating things up.

              Got Lope?
              3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
              Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
              Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
              12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

              Comment


              • OK, I read that it's a good idea to turn the key to ON so the fuel pump runs and puts pressure on the fuel rail, so I can check for leaks before I put my upper intake back on. I have reconnected most of the main wiring harnesses, the 2 groups of grounds to the 2 tranny grounding bolts... the only wires left hanging (that I can spot) are for various sensors...

                However when I open the door, no interior light. Then I turn the key to ON, the dash lights up but no fuel pump running. What am I forgetting?

                Also with fuel rails, when you hook the 2 lines back up I just pressed them together very hard, till they finally clicked and locked together... is this the right way to do is or is there supposed to be some special way?

                What else should I know before trying to start? The engine came with "no oil", but the pan was just empty the insides still had oil... I have put a bit of oil through it once back when I was trying to get a stuck piece of gasket out of the oil, and I also lubed the cam before putting it in... I also poured some oil down onto the cam before the LIM went on. Lifters were in a bag of oil for storage, just popped them back in. I did not cover the new push rods in oil, just put them in checking the order about 12 times. Should I pull the fuel rail fuse and disconnect the injector harness and crank for a few seconds to get oil to run through it?

                EDIT - Sounds like the pump won't run if my oil pressure sensor is not plugged in... i'll give it a shot tomorrow. I would still like other advice for my other questions though :-)
                Last edited by PCGUY112887; 07-22-2007, 02:03 AM.
                SpudFiles
                Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
                Theopia
                Enjoy life online.

                1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
                3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

                Comment


                • Originally posted by 3400-95-Modified View Post
                  it is located in a different location if you used that stock area... I noticed mine reads higher under certain conditions but that could also be a result of uncoated headers in my engine bay heating things up.
                  stock 3.1 gauge sensor is in the rear head as well.


                  i'll check the resistance of both sensors when i get a chance.
                  Past Builds;
                  1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
                  1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
                  Current Project;
                  1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

                  Comment


                  • OK I dunno wtf I am forgetting...

                    I have plugged in just about everything, only things not plugged in is MAP, MAF, air temp, TPS, IAC, etc... things that should not matter at all.

                    However I can STILL not get even the overhead light to turn on. Trunk light won't turn on either. I turn the key to run the pump and all is quiet, but the dash lights up.

                    Is there some huge harness I am forgetting somewhere that I can't see? There is basically no power anywhere put the dash... even the glove box light won't turn on.
                    SpudFiles
                    Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
                    Theopia
                    Enjoy life online.

                    1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
                    3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

                    Comment


                    • Do you have any doors open? Do you have a hood light? If I have a door open after 15mins or so it shuts off all interior lights and you gotta close all doors/trunk before it will reset. I'd get more sensors plugged in too.
                      sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                      1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                      16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                      Original L82 Longblock
                      with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                      Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                      Comment


                      • Be patient and search, you've left something disconnected somewhere. Check all of your fuses. Get a multimeter and check for power to the fuel pump relay and to the computer.

                        Comment


                        • Sounds similar to this: http://www.60degreev6.com/showthread.php?t=37487
                          -Brad-
                          89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
                          sigpic
                          Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

                          Comment


                          • Hummmm....

                            I think I know what wire he is talking about, there is a fat red wire coming out of the fuse box where the fuel pump fuse is (or is that the relay?)... however I never disconnected anything from it, the red wire is hard wired into the box and goes into a main wiring harness...

                            Only other idea I had is if the car saw no oil level, then it would not run the pump. This could happen since I have to leave the pan sensor unplugged, since there is no sensor there in the 3500. However that does not explain the interior lights... interior lights and fuel pump have to be linked. Radio does not turn on either, it's gotta be something big I am missing since it powers just about everything else in the car.

                            I thought maybe the battery went bad but the battery is reading about 11v after me screwing with turning it on/off over and over.
                            SpudFiles
                            Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
                            Theopia
                            Enjoy life online.

                            1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
                            3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

                            Comment


                            • last time that happened to me, i forgot to plug in the bulkhead connector that ran power from the battery to the rest of the car.. on my car it's on the drivers side in the cowl.. not sure about yours.
                              Past Builds;
                              1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
                              1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
                              Current Project;
                              1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Superdave View Post
                                last time that happened to me, i forgot to plug in the bulkhead connector that ran power from the battery to the rest of the car.. on my car it's on the drivers side in the cowl.. not sure about yours.
                                Hooray for OBD I and checking everything out first.

                                jk. Im sure you got some simple problem

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X