3500 swap questions

[PCGUY112887]

You happen to know what size of bolt goes on the lower part of the bracket? I didn't get any bolts for the throttle body either so I had to take the adapter plate to the store to find the size... but now the throttle body plate is attached to the car so it's hard to find the size by guessing unless I take it all off again.

[Superdave]

lol, you gotta bend up that bracket a little.. took a few tries but mine fits perfect now.

[PCGUY112887]

OK, is the bracket for the throttle cables (the one that bolts on top of the 3500 adapter and has that little piece that goes over the PCV tube on the intake to keep it in place) supposed to fit on without cutting? Becuase well, mine won't. I can get the top 2 bolts lined up, cut then the "leg" on the bottom/left of the throttle body isn't anywhere near it's screw hole. If I put the "leg" up first, then there is no way for the top to bolt on unless I really bent the bracket somehow.

Sounds confusing yes but I don't get how this is supposed to work. I don't even have the bolts for the throttle body... so I can't decide if the bracket's "leg" is even supposed to screw in.

[wasas9]

yeah, an update with that pipe adaptor for the CTS.

It seems to be working perfectly. Temp is between the 1/4 mark and the 1/2 mark right where it was with the 2.8 and 3400 in the old phase 1 Z i had.

[PCGUY112887]

I'm having trouble following that image in comparison to what you posted as how it fit in there...

This is why I stuck with a 3400 lower...

I would almost say you should try to design a completely new bracket for there but thats alot of work as well.

Here... this pic may explain better. In my drawing, where it says "Bracket" (the black thing), that is the black bracket in this picture. The other side is obvious.



In this picture, they are closer together... which would mean my drawing wouldn't really work. However last time I fit it in there, I could have swore it was further away meaning my drawing would work.

I'll check as soon as I find my file and get the top bolts in.

[3400-95-Modified]

I'm having trouble following that image in comparison to what you posted as how it fit in there...

This is why I stuck with a 3400 lower...

I would almost say you should try to design a completely new bracket for there but thats alot of work as well.

[PCGUY112887]

Just enlongate the 2 holes that bolt to the block (enlongate towards where the bracket bends), and the top hole for the mount on the tranny.

The lower hole on the block is very very close to fitting, I just need to grind it a bit with a file so the bolt goes in with ease. I'll get pics soon.

Welding something onto the bracket for the oil pan bolt seems like a good idea, however the piece of metal will need to be bent. Basically it needs to weld to the bracket, then be bent foward then back straight, kind of like an S.

I drew a picture... I have 2 big machine shops at my dispoal however I have no clue how to bend a thick piece of steel the way I need it. I've welded once before with a stardard arc welder... but I don't know if I would trust myself with an important weld like this.

[3400-95-Modified]

a welded peice of steel should hold up... As long as the block bolts are in I'm sure that will prevent it from flexing a lot.

How in the hell did you get it to fit though.. Pics a must!

[PCGUY112887]

I'll give it a shot...

Anyone have any idea on what I could do with the bottom bolt of the trans/block bracket? I got the mount modified enough to fit all of the other bolts in (2 on the tranny and 2 on the block), but the bottom one is so far off... the only idea I had was to weld a piece of thick steel to the bracket, bend it correctly, then bolt it to the oil pan boss but I dunno how well that would hold... would be flexing on it all of the time, probably crack the weld or just bend the metal.

I don't know how good of an idea just leaving it hang unbolted would be either.

[3400-95-Modified]

Yeah its just on or off... If you splice them together it should remove the light... I'm just too friken lazy to get under the car and do that

Maybe when I'm installing my ported upper plenum and my 65mm TB I'll splice that and also hook up my fan switch again.

[PCGUY112887]

I wonder if that sensor just measures electrical resistance to see if the oil is there or not? If so, in theory you could just splice the wires together at the sensor and it would fool it, never having a light.

[3400-95-Modified]

I do have a low oil light every once and a while... for some reason if I turn the ignition on for a few sec and wait before I start it the light will go off... if I turn it right over it sometimes stays on... Its weird.

[Superdave]

there is an easy way to modify the FPR so you don't have to grind away the plenum at all...


cut out the top of the mounting hole and put a washer on the bolt.. then rotate the FPR just enough so it clears the neck and tighten it down.

works perfect

[PCGUY112887]

Well I was a retard... didn't have the big power cable from the batt going into the starter :P

Now I have fuel pressure and lights and everything. No leaks! Now to get the intake to fit with FPR... I ground off about as much as I would want to, but it's still not quite enough.

I'm getting to that stage where I am worrying about things I did before, in the engine. The pushrods, if I put the rockers on correctly, etc. The whole valvetrain seemed way to easy really, just droping a pushrod onto a lifter and a rocker going on top of it just seems way too simple .

What are some common things people can mess up and not realize? (aside from pushrod order).

[PCGUY112887]

So you don't get a light in your dash from not having any pan sensor plugged in? I am just asuming it would show a light, not positive.

I have the large connector with 2 orange wires going to it on the large post of the starter, then the tiny purple wire connected to the small post on the starter... I am fairly sure that is how it was on the old one... I am using a 3500 starter (part #'s say it's the same as the new style 3400 ones).