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Cam bearing orientation.....

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  • #16
    whatnot sounds pretty hard to remove i know how bad rust can be...but also u might have to look at oversized bearings for the cam if the bore is too badly damaged, i would only trust a very reputable machine shop to inspect and/or bore the cam tunnel. and install is pretty easy, just make sure u work back to front, but u already knew that, just make sure the bearings are straight and i would go over the tunnel with a fine tooth comb because that is where the oiling goes from to get to the crank(IIRC) and thats a cause for alot of headache if you lose oiling to both...

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    • #17
      Like i said, the original problem was #4 rod bearing. After that completelly let go i was about 10 miles from home. I kept going obviously. The cam bearings barrely spun over the last few miles and the trip 20 feet into the garage. The cam is in great shape still.

      I have no doubt that the block is fine.


      For the record, the crank was shot, even was warped a little.
      Past Builds;
      1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
      1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
      Current Project;
      1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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      • #18
        yeah, the bearings didn't spin enough to hurt anything, the oil hole only moved about...... 1/2". the guy has done this for a long time, adn everyone i've talked to in the last few days says he's a decent guy...... i'll assume that he would have told me if the block was fucked up.....

        Basically what i'm getting here is...... he should have lined them up, but i'm ok? I can start assembly?

        Cammed 3400 --> 224whp 210wtq
        Cammed 3500 --> ???
        1 of 5 3500 J-Bodies

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        • #19
          proceed

          just use some really good assy lube, melling makes some good stuff, its a little thick but that is good
          Last edited by gectek; 03-11-2007, 04:39 PM. Reason: add

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          • #20
            Originally posted by gectek View Post
            proceed

            just use some really good assy lube, melling makes some good stuff, its a little thick but that is good
            I prefer the white lithium that Comp sells. But i usually use both in different parts of the engine.

            Damon, i've got some of that melling stuff still. Lemmie know when you start assembling and i'll dig it out.
            Past Builds;
            1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
            1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
            Current Project;
            1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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            • #21
              we rebuild about 10 engines a year at the college and we used all sorts of break in lube, the green crap that sealed power has, the melling, something from either crane or comp, a few others and the cams were new, the engines were bolted on the stands and ran for 20 mins to break them in, then hooked up to a tractor dyno and loaded up, and the cams with the least amount of wear and marks were the ones that used the melling lube, thats why i like it...

              it all tastes nasty though...no recommendation there except wash hands before eating
              Last edited by gectek; 03-11-2007, 05:59 PM. Reason: add

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              • #22
                Dave I'm sure you'll know when i start because I have to come get everything from you.

                Thanks for all the help guys

                Cammed 3400 --> 224whp 210wtq
                Cammed 3500 --> ???
                1 of 5 3500 J-Bodies

                Comment

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