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torque spec for underdrive pulley

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  • torque spec for underdrive pulley

    just put an underdrive pulley on my 3100 only problem I have is I don't know the torqe spec for the pulley. can anyone help?
    I wish 10% of the people on the road knew how to drive

  • #2
    Should be darn close to factory spec I am sure...76 pounds
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    • #3
      sweet thank you
      I wish 10% of the people on the road knew how to drive

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      • #4
        well I got the torque wrench on it but I could'nt keep the pulley from moving. I used an impact gun to get the pulley on I'm hoping that's enough to get it at 76lbs. I guess I'll cross my fingers until monday when I can get some help. If anyone has a suggestion on a way to keep the pully from moving I'd love to hear it
        I wish 10% of the people on the road knew how to drive

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        • #5
          well while driving I noticed that at times the car seemed to jerk. I'm wondering if it's the belt sliping or if my transmission is acting up. has anyone experienced anything like this after putting on their pulley?
          I wish 10% of the people on the road knew how to drive

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          • #6
            I thought you were using a flywheel holder, how'd you get it off??

            You need to use a holder on the flywheel/flexplate

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Juglenaut
              I thought you were using a flywheel holder, how'd you get it off??

              You need to use a holder on the flywheel/flexplate

              http://fastfwdperformance.com/udinfo.htm
              use an impact... i know its sad to say but ive never torqued a crank pully... nor have ever seen a tech torque a crank pully. they are always put back on with an impact gun. we're lazy that way. i torque everything else but crank pullys really.


              OR get someone to put their foot on the vehicles brakes while they have the transmission locked in a gear this holds the pully stationary,

              or... use a pry bar in the slots of the pully slid in the way to keep from moving against on the oil pan or other part of the engine that holds the pully stationary.
              Colin
              92 Sunbird GT, 3200 Hybrid 13.99@ 95.22 (2004)
              90 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 10.54 @ 129mph.

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              • #8
                or... use a pry bar in the slots of the pully slid in the way to keep from moving against on the oil pan or other part of the engine that holds the pully stationary.
                This works to remove, but most underdrive pulleys' don't have slots.

                OR get someone to put their foot on the vehicles brakes while they have the transmission locked in a gear this holds the pully stationary
                I was just going to say that sooner or latter, it works. I wouldn't use a torque wrench, impacts can damage internals.
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                • #9
                  getting someone to put the brakes on seems to be the way to go for me, but could that be why the cars seems to jerk?
                  I wish 10% of the people on the road knew how to drive

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                  • #10
                    I think I'd pull that bolt back out, and torque it properly. If you used an impact, you've probably got close to 200 ft lb on it, and that can mess stuff up in a real big hurry.

                    Actually, I think I'd replace the bolt while you're at it.
                    \"NASCAR is an integral part of my life. A part of me died when Dale Earnhardt died.\"

                    1997 Olds CS 4-door S/C - 183,527 miles
                    1999 Chevrolet Lumina 3100 - Wife took it at 158,340 miles
                    1989 Volvo 740GL Wagon 2.3 8v - 232,050 miles

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                    • #11
                      I ment to say would't...Geesh I really must start proof reading my posts better.

                      I always recommend a torque wrench. Impacts can kill.

                      Never use a impact on a crank to remove the dampener bolt, the risk of back lash is to great. Back lash is what can really damage the engine.
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