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  • #16
    Originally posted by SappySE107
    I want to see this drag motor you talk about. Im sorry, but after you tell us how we don't know shit, and now you are asking us questions...I dunno. You made a deal out of 2hp per liter (so less than 10 hp for a 3.4 liter V6). You haven't answered my question about the twin turbo 3100 drag car that turns 9000 RPM. You rebuilt it after every race, so how quick was it? What kind of parts were you putting in it after every race? Do they give you time to tear it down to replace parts like that or did you keep a stack of them in the trailer to swap out after every race?

    What length rods did the race motor use? Got pics? Id love to see something that bad ass.
    Last edited by bszopi; 02-06-2007, 08:08 AM.

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    • #17
      the 3100 we built was i na nold chevette drag car, it ran a 9.35 on it's best run and in teh low 9.40s all day long, the motor was a stock 3100 block, with hard block filled to the top, it had a 11:00 stactic compression ratio and was boosted too 28psi, it was intercooled and methanol injected, it ran on vp 114, with a set of crane rockers, and custom pushrods, the heads where custom ported 3400 heads and lower intake, with a custom upper, it had 1.78 intake and 1.50 exhaust valves custom made for the engine with custom springs and guides and seats, the retainers where ti.., the crank was stock but had been knife eged and frozen, it weighed under 20 pounds if i remmber right, the rods where carillo I beam rods narrowed to fit, the pistons where made by ross and where forged, it also had a stage of NOS if we wanted to use it instaed of the water injection, it made 720HP at 8700 rpm, and 568 ft lbs at 6000rpm, the problem with the engine is it only held water in the heads and manifold and only ran for about 3 min at a time, the engine would last about 10 runs max before it would have a faliure, we always had to replace bearingsafter the day was over, the rod bearings would be way down into the coppr after a few runs, but it would run like hell for that time. i don't have cam specs for the thing i didn't have anything to do with the cam on that on i know it was a solid roller though. the car ran for about 1 1/2 seasons and we got tired of rebuilding it so the engine ws replaced with a buick 3.8 turbo of about 900hp
      i wil see if i can find the pics of the car and engine with the dyno sheets the time slips for you guys, i know i have them somewhere, HAPPy, know you going to be willing to help me or not, i don't care if i was the smartest person on earth i would still like other peoples input anything before i just go out and do it.

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      • #18
        you can use SBC rods and have the big end milled to fit. TurobZ24 did that and has a safe redline of 8100, but even with a solid roller and duration of 250+ and lift of over .600 with a turbo, he can't make power much over 7200rpm. wow, i'm just thinking about the extensive head work to make power over 8000rpm. not to mention the valve spring pressure!
        Andy

        sigpic

        fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
        fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70

        62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.

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        • #19
          Not enough info on the cam to know that. 60V6s can make power past 8000 with the right work and boost.
          Ben
          60DegreeV6.com
          WOT-Tech.com

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