need colder plugs

[rickykline]

hey guys im looking for a set of colder plugs... need to get them soon so i can beat this Kr issue... what plugs would yall recommend?? anyone have a part number on them? where can i get them?

[MidnightriderZ24]

stock delco plugs from a tgp will work. r42lts iirc..

[rickykline]

are they a colder heat range?? cuz im Kr'n bad...

[c3hp0]

41-919 (GM # 25161442) Spark Plug - 2 heat ranges colder than stock

41-932 (GM #25162556) Spark Plug - 1 heat range colder than stock

I run the 41-919s in my modified 3800 s/c Regal and 41-932s in our slightly modified 3400 Alero. The 41-932s removed a bit of KR, but our 3400 has very high knock, even though it is n/a (used to peak at 12 degrees! now ONLY peaks at 7 or 8 - much higher than the Regal).

Good luck fighting KR. It is art and science. Incidentally, I run a 160 degree t-stat in the Regal (from a late '80's K-car, IIRC - just check the diameter and height - the t-stat was about a mm larger than the 3800 stat) and a 180 in the Alero. You can also use fuel to quench knock, but running rich introduces other problems. I use redline water wetter and measured a difference with a scan tool.

Finally, although I haven't studied your mods other than to notice you're turbo'd, you can also use heat insulating treatments (ceramics, wraps, etc.) and run bigger exhaust to cool things down. You should also, if you can, run a larger oil filter, since the surface area and extra bit of oil can help. I run K&N HP2001 on both the 38 and 3400. Every little bit adds up.

T-stats, oil filters, and plugs are interchangeable between the 3400 and 3800 engines, in terms of fit.

Head over to the 3800 community if you want to know about KR: clubgp.com, regalgs.org, etc. Have you thought of alcohol injection?

[rickykline]

im still tuning with the dhp and ive gotten the kr down ALOT... was about 15-17 before i boosted it... now im down to about 5-7 i think some of it might be due to my solid mounts. but i want to go to a colder plug anyway...

[rickykline]

where can i pick those 41-919 up at? does autozone carry them? lol

[3400-95-Modified]

Probably not but hey its worth a shot...

According to their website...

Spark Plug for a
1995 Chevrolet Beretta
Normal Stock
Special Order
Not Available



Item Part
No.
Warranty Core
Value Unit
Price Availability
Store Web
BOSCH-PLATINUM+4
Do not regap 4459 $6.99
Plug located on the Bosch end cap

BOSCH-PLATINUM+2
Do not regap 4304 $4.99
Plug located on the Bosch end cap

AUTOLITE_DOUBLE_PLAT APP5245 $3.99

AUTOLITE_PLATINUM AP5245 $2.59

AUTOLITE_RESISTOR 5245 $1.49

AC-DELCO-RAPIDFIRE 6 $4.99
The old spark plug design and the new design are
interchangeable and can be mixed in an engine with
no impact to performance.

AC-DELCO
Platinum 41-908 $5.99
The old spark plug design and the new design are
interchangeable and can be mixed in an engine with
no impact to performance.

AC-DELCO
Standard R44LTSM6 $1.99
The old spark plug design and the new design are
interchangeable and can be mixed in an engine with
no impact to performance.

SPLITFIRE
Split "V" design SF524E $4.99

CHAMPION 15 $1.79

DENSO
Iridium 5325 $12.99

CHAMPION_PLAT_POWER 3015 $2.49

ORIGINAL_PLUG SEE NOTE
Original equipment plug is platinum

BOSCH-PLATINUM 6213

BOSCH-SUPER 7704
Original equipment plug is platinum

DENSO
Premium 5070

DENSO
Standard 5023

DURALAST_PLATINUM DLP5245

DURALAST-DOUBLE-PLAT DLPP5245



So they must have a 41-919 if they have a 41-908

[c3hp0]

Sorry, but neglected to mention that the 919s and 932s may have been discontinued, but you can cross reference them, since they're Delco plugs. I purchased both at Walmart, by far the lowest price.

Many will tell you to stay away from the Bosch + series, but a couple of searches in the right forums will show that. Some have used the rapid fires with success (and I've had good experience with them in a v, but they're not high mileage or as durable as the platinum/iridium plugs (i.e. you'll have to change them far more often).

[gectek]

the autolites are the easiest to check heat range, i think stockers for the 3400 pn 606 if you want 1 range cooler go 605, or 2 ranges 604, they are gapped at .060 if you want another gap, then just go with the stock plugs in a diff gap like .040 (the first 2 numbers) (forgot first #s for .040 gap, but parts store can tell u that. then the heat range is the last #. one above is hotter one below is cooler. just dont go too cold or you will have to worry about fouling and longer warmups. i think that being boosted, i know a few guys like to use the smaller gap cuz the boost likes to snuff out the spark sometimes. just what i heard from them.

also i like the plain vanilla copper plugs over any other style, throw any bosch plat plugs u have out, bad mojo

[3400-95-Modified]

yeah i know about the bosch plug badness... I'm running NGK's and I will be putting one of the sets of AC delcos I just aquired from my 04 and 05 motors. They are the iridium ones, but later I think I may go back to the NGK's when I take it to the track since those are better for N2O applications. I'm not sure how well a iridium tips will hold up to nitrous, but they say they should be fine.

I will agree that Autolite is the easiest to find cooler plugs as far as the number change. It took me a few hours to find cooler NGK plugs, I ended up crossing a 2 degree cooler autolite plug over to NGK and found one, the numbers however were not 2 different from stock NGK so it was almost impossible to find.

[rickykline]

i think 2 steps colder would be ideal... but i need to find something

[c3hp0]

A washer fluid injection kit is 2-300 bucks and many report alcohol injection removing about 5 degrees of KR and increasing timing at least a few degrees, netting out close to 10 degrees of timing. If you use your stock reservoir, you can take advantage of a level sensor and warning light, if your car has them.

The kits are well proven in the GN (turbo 3800) community over the last 10 plus years, among many other groups (including a few OEM auto systems, the names of the makes I cannot recall - Japanese Mazda?).

[geldartb]

A washer fluid injection kit is 2-300 bucks and many report alcohol injection removing about 5 degrees of KR and increasing timing at least a few degrees, netting out close to 10 degrees of timing. If you use your stock reservoir, you can take advantage of a level sensor and warning light, if your car has them.

The kits are well proven in the GN (turbo 3800) community over the last 10 plus years, among many other groups (including a few OEM auto systems, the names of the makes I cannot recall - Japanese Mazda?).

intersting would you have any links to this product. nevermind found out what i wanted to know.

[TurboZ24]

You guys are talking about colder plugs, etc. I never actually had any success with running colder plugs on my engine, even at 20 psi. Colder plugs just ran poorly after a while.

I know they tell you to run 1 point colder / 75 extra HP, but just never worked for my engine.

[AaronGTR]

im still tuning with the dhp and ive gotten the kr down ALOT... was about 15-17 before i boosted it... now im down to about 5-7 i think some of it might be due to my solid mounts. but i want to go to a colder plug anyway...

Your solid mounts will not cause KR, it's due to something else.

Get a 180* thermostat if you don't have one already. One heat range colder plug should work fine for you. More than that and they might foul. I'm currently using Denso IT-20 plugs which are iridium tip and 1 step colder. NGK's will work too, and NGK copper tip plugs would also be a good choice. I'm going to try them next summer myself, but I don't have a part number atm. A good cheap place to get plugs though is www.clubplug.net . Another tip some racers use... take small file and some sand paper and round off the square corners on the ground strap above the tip. Sometimes those corners get hotter and can cause detonation if you're running right on the edge. Most of your KR is probably just tuning related though.