Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

'90 3.1 Lumina stalling when warm

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #31
    Hey Mainc,

    I will get the ICM tested as you eliminated my ICM spark interrupt suspicions. I agree the exhaust temp may be the contributing factor.

    I agree with your fuel injector idea. I previously tested the fuel rail pressure (post stall) while cranking it was at 35-37psi and increased to 40+psi within minutes after I stopped cranking. I assume the pressure rose due to the injectors being closed and fuel heat expansion.

    As mentioned in earlier posts, there were never any codes found.

    I will keep you all posted! (so to speak)

    Thanks

    Comment


    • #32
      Originally posted by snakemandingo View Post
      I agree with your fuel injector idea. I previously tested the fuel rail pressure (post stall) while cranking it was at 35-37psi and increased to 40+psi within minutes after I stopped cranking. I assume the pressure rose due to the injectors being closed and fuel heat expansion.
      Yeah, I think to check the that the fuel injectors are opening you would check fuel pressure before cranking and see that it had around 41 psi. But unhook the pressure regulator vaccuum hose, then crank and see that fuel pressure drops. If you leave the regulator vacuum hose attached it might pull enough vaccuum to lower while cranking, but I'm not really sure if you ned to unhook the vaccuum. But the bottom line is the pressure should drop while cranking if the injectors are opening since the fuel pump doesn't run while crank, or does it lol?

      Anyway your problem really sounds like it's the ICM.

      Comment


      • #33
        Had the ICM tested along with all 3 coil packs and passed. I will be rechecking the fuel pressure at running, stalling and post stall cranking. You know you're getting bummed out when you start hoping for a part to test bad.

        Comment


        • #34
          I haven't even worked on since the last time I posted. I got a
          factory service manual which sent me looking for things UNDER
          the engine's fuse box area. I'm going to install the new ICM
          when it warms up here and see what happens. Next stop
          will be inj. I'll go with the Bosch. What a PITA..I'm glad
          someone got their 3.1 going again. I hope to as well.
          n2gc

          Comment


          • #35
            The problem I am having has not been resolved....just narrowed down. I would get a auto parts store in your area to test your ICM and coil packs prior to the purchase of a new one. Mine were all OK and now I will have to move on to the next step....whatever that is?

            Comment


            • #36
              Originally posted by snakemandingo View Post
              Had the ICM tested along with all 3 coil packs and passed. I will be rechecking the fuel pressure at running, stalling and post stall cranking. You know you're getting bummed out when you start hoping for a part to test bad.
              I thought you said your car ran until it gets hot then stalls and it loses ignition spark? Will it run until hot before stalling? And does it actually lose ignition spark? If so, this might be a case where your ICM and coils (more likely the ICM though) craps out when hot. This might be a case where you might want to go to the junkyard and get substitute ICM with coils for cheap and try it out.

              Does it run till hot and lose spark or what? also your not getting a CPS code when this happens are you?

              Comment


              • #37
                Stalling 3.1 Lumina

                Originally posted by manicmechanix View Post
                I thought you said your car ran until it gets hot then stalls and it loses ignition spark? Will it run until hot before stalling? And does it actually lose ignition spark? If so, this might be a case where your ICM and coils (more likely the ICM though) craps out when hot. This might be a case where you might want to go to the junkyard and get substitute ICM with coils for cheap and try it out.

                Does it run till hot and lose spark or what? also your not getting a CPS code when this happens are you?
                When cold the car appears to run fine. Approximately 10-15 minutes later idling (warm up) it will stop running. Upon cranking after it has stopped, the spark plug wires, which while running showed spark, will not show spark from any of the three coil packs. I have taken the ICM and coils to a shop that tested them both OK. I even went as far as bringing a hot air gun and heated up the ICM to a blistering surface temp (much hotter than it is attached to the block) and multiple tests were OK.

                Comment


                • #38
                  Originally posted by snakemandingo View Post
                  When cold the car appears to run fine. Approximately 10-15 minutes later idling (warm up) it will stop running. Upon cranking after it has stopped, the spark plug wires, which while running showed spark, will not show spark from any of the three coil packs. I have taken the ICM and coils to a shop that tested them both OK. I even went as far as bringing a hot air gun and heated up the ICM to a blistering surface temp (much hotter than it is attached to the block) and multiple tests were OK.

                  OK next time you get no spark, disconnect ICM 2 pin connector and make sure there's ignition voltage with key on. Then unhook ICM 3 pin connector and measure for proper resistance of the crank sensor, about 1K ohms, at yellow and purple wire I think. If you have a voltmeter that measures A/C current check it for the pulsing signal, or if you have a scanner it should show rpms when cranking. If this checks OK and you have no spark the ICM is most likely the problem.


                  The main thing is if you're getting a crank signal from your crank sensor and no spark then it just about has to be a faulty ICM.
                  Last edited by manicmechanix; 02-17-2009, 12:38 AM.

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Originally posted by manicmechanix View Post
                    OK next time you get no spark, disconnect ICM 2 pin connector and make sure there's ignition voltage with key on. Then unhook ICM 3 pin connector and measure for proper resistance of the crank sensor, about 1K ohms, at yellow and purple wire I think. If you have a voltmeter that measures A/C current check it for the pulsing signal, or if you have a scanner it should show rpms when cranking. If this checks OK and you have no spark the ICM is most likely the problem.


                    The main thing is if you're getting a crank signal from your crank sensor and no spark then it just about has to be a faulty ICM.
                    Hey Manic, 2 and 3 pin checked out OK. I found a new symptom while waiting for the engine to warm up then shut down. When I was warming up the engine, I kept the rpms a little high because I noticed the engine stumbled one time prior before stalling. Once the engine began stumbling, I fully accelerated the engine (from under the hood at the throttle body) and was able to keep the engine running. However, the stumbling was really bad and I could hear the engine fire back through the intake plenum into the air filter area a couple of times. So apparently there is enough spark to keep it running yet it immediately stalls when the accelerator is released. Also, The Catalytic converter is extremely hot for the short 10 minute warm up. any ideas anyone?

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      There is a guy over at this forum that was saying these things are
                      notorious for half a** ECM's. Course don't go changing out the ECM
                      om my word, but you might take it up and have it tested. I guess you
                      did check out the ICM. Here's that site. Might find some help..>

                      Lumina, automotive forums, forum, message board, bulletin board, discussion, discuss, autos, auto, car, cars, problems, technical, community


                      Oh, I was just reading the whole thread over again and saw Manic is helping
                      you out. He's trying to help me, but I've dropped the ball. Hope you find
                      the prob.
                      Last edited by no2guncntrl; 04-22-2009, 12:11 AM.

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Did you get this resolved? I'm having the same problem on my lumina as well.

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          1990 lumina troubles

                          hey everyone! have a 1990 3.1 lumina sedan. It runs rough, stalls and cuts out when accelerating too fast? Also cold or hot engine loops then cuts out when revving too high in park. Have replaced fuel pump, filter, crankshaft positions sensor, checked ICM and coils. help! and Thanks!

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            When my car did this it was the head gasket. It would be fine you first started it up, and then as soon as it got hot enough no dice and the motor killed off, probably because of all the coolant spewing into the piston chamber. Thought it was the icm so I changed that and just about anything electronic related that could kill the motor of. It was a small leak. Didn't know how bad it was till I dropped the pan and saw all the yogurt waiting for me. Probably the worse case Scenario but my car leaked for a year leading up to it eventually getting hot and dying never know. Sometimes its something simple and sometimes its something that will make you cry.

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              The ECM has a rev limiter when the trans is in Park or Neutral. Since it stalls/hesitates during accel, I would suggest checking or replacing the TPS (throttle position sensor).
                              MinusOne - 3100 - 4T60E
                              '79 MGB - LZ9 - T5
                              http://www.tcemotorsports.com
                              http://www.britishcarconversions.com/lx9-conversion

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X