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Nightmares after Headgaskets

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  • #16
    Thats what i was thinkin, but im in canada, shipping would probably be retarded and take forever due to canada customs(somthin else that makes me ill, lol) Ill pull all the lifters out and checkem, dont wanna have to pull it apart a 4th time if i dont have to.

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    • #17
      ok finally got a compression gauge, what range in lbs compression should i be getting?

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      • #18
        Ok boys and girls, i did the compression test and got 185lbs on pretty well all cylinders give or take 1-2lbs. Is this good or no, i cant find any posts on compression.

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        • #19
          The biggest thing you're looking for is consistency. If yours are that close, you're fine.
          \"NASCAR is an integral part of my life. A part of me died when Dale Earnhardt died.\"

          1997 Olds CS 4-door S/C - 183,527 miles
          1999 Chevrolet Lumina 3100 - Wife took it at 158,340 miles
          1989 Volvo 740GL Wagon 2.3 8v - 232,050 miles

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          • #20
            I'd say compression checks out! I think around there to 170psi is good.

            next step would be to take the lower manifold off, and inspect the suspect lifters. Replace the bad ones (go to a junkyard if you are cheap). You should be able to re-use your LIM gasket since you just put a new one on and there isn't much use on it. You'll have to re-do the silicone though of course. Then fill er back up with coolant and re-assemble and see if that fixes it. I can't think of anything else it could be unless the camshaft lobes spun...
            Last edited by IsaacHayes; 07-06-2006, 06:55 PM.
            sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
            1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
            16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
            Original L82 Longblock
            with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
            Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

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            • #21
              thanks guys, im gonna tear back into it tomorrow, rain started again. Thats good new about the compression, had a big smile on after that. Not gonna go lookin in the yards for lifters just hope that its only gonna be one or maybe 2(2 is pushing it on the wallet), im not cheap, lol im poor. one other thing i noticed, maybe a problem in itself, How many vacume hoses are coming off the coils in the back, i notice there are 2 spots for hoses but i only have one that runs to the intake and the pcv on the valve cover. did i drop a hose somewhere?

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              • #22
                coils? uhm....?
                sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                Original L82 Longblock
                with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                Comment


                • #23
                  sry the coil pacs
                  or its attatched to the coil pack bracket, blue connector with a red tab

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                  • #24
                    Hmm, maybe you are thinking of the evap canistoer purge valve soleniod. There are 2 vacuum lines going to it. There is another buldge/hole/etc but if you take it off and look at it, it's solid.
                    sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                    1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                    16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                    Original L82 Longblock
                    with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                    Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      i think your right, but i only have one hose coming off it heading to the intake and pcv valve, where does the other one come from?

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                      • #26
                        Hey, yank the plugs, pull the oil cap off. Get a cheap compression gauge that comes with the hose and is removable. Make it fit to your aircompressor hose. Regulate the air pressure off of your air compressor to 10-15 PSI. screw the hose into a cylinder and put it that cylinder to TDC or when you can see that the valves are both closed. hook up the compressor, find your air leak. If your leaking air out of the intake you have a leaking intake valve/bent. If you can hear it at the tail pipe you know the exh. valve is cooked/bent.
                        Don't forget to remove the oil cap so you don't blow out your seals.

                        Diesal fuel works great to check for leaks on a bench, it also cleans the goop off of your valves and runners. Water works on clean heads and won't hurt nothin, just blow it out after. you might have a stuck valve too, which won't leak if it didn't bend at the seat. alot of rebuild heads don't get there guides replaced and they just knurl the inside of the guide making it a smaller id, eventually the guide wears, the vlave pitchs and seizes in the guide. Or your heads already have worn guides. personally. I'd yank those heads and tear them completely down to find the problem.
                        A too long of a pushrod may be your problem on the easy side. a locked lifter would not do it. lifters pump up when they get oiled from the motor already, the only thing they could do is collapse and then all you would have is alot of noise and valve train slop. Then again, maybe the rocker just failed. I'm pretty sure you have a locked valve in the guide. do you have the go/no go pins for checking your guide id? if not tear down the heads and take it to someone who does.
                        sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
                        A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
                        Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
                        Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
                        PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.

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