Complete 3100 mainenance

[rknapp141]

Pretty soon my dad and I are going to be completing some in-depth mainenance on my 2003 3100 Grand Prix. The running list includes:

- Replace spark plugs
- Replace spark plug wires
- Replace coils
- Clean fuel injectors
- Inspect belts and replace as necessary

What I'd also like to do at the same time is replace the fuel filter, the battery, and possibly upgrade the ignition coil packs.

So I gotta ask, where exactly is the fuel filter on the 2003 3100? I noticed a metallic canister on the front of the engine, near the oil filter, but wasn't 100% positive what that was. Also, how does it come off? I found instructions for a fuel filter on a 3800, but I figure they're going to be very different.

As for the coil packs, are there any aftermarket offerings? I noticed that my coil packs look very similar (identical, really) to 3800 coil packs, but are in a different position (behind the motor, instead of below the alternator). I know MSD offers a package of three dual-plug coil packs (basically the same as stock, but red and with MSD improvements), but it was for a 3800 and I'm not sure if I can use them.

One last thing, the PCV valve. Where is it on this motor? There's a vacuum type of line that I noticed near the TB that connects into the top of the motor (above the valve cover if I remember correctly, but it could be in the valve cover) that might be the PCV valve, as I had pulled on the boot slightly one time, and what looked like a PCV valve came out with it. Again, not 100% sure.

Don't need help with the battery lmao.

[96mcls]

i think the fuel filter should be under the car, by the rear left seat area. not sure if they moved them in the 97+ GP's.

upgraded the coil packs really is not worth it, msd makes coils for these engines but they are no where near as reliable as stock and there will be no gains over stock coils.

the pcv valve is in the front valve cover on the left.

[gboogie99]

fuel filter: should be right in front of rear axle, don't know what side your gas goes in , but it'll be there on that side.

PCV valve: is the little thing next to oil cap in front valve cover

fuel injectors: put some seafoam or lucas fuel treatment in your gas tank

are you doing this work yourself? Seriously,because if you don't know about fuel filters, then you probably don't know about "fuel pressure"

[IsaacHayes]

Leave the coils alone. Mine have 180k miles and are plenty strong. Stock is even good for lots of boost.
Why change the battery unless it's toast or you need a bigger one for a huge stereo or something?

[tractorman]

Check and make sure the belt tensioner is tight and lined up. Check the intake manifold gaskets for external leaks. Check for mayonaise on the bottom of the oil cap and PCV.

I wouldn't mess with the coils if they're working. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

[rknapp141]

Yes, I know about fuel pressure. The big thing is that I sometimes have trouble starting the motor. It doesn't matter if its warm or cold, it'll just want me to hold the key at "start" longer before the motor starts every once in a while, which I figured might be a fuel problem. As far as I know, the fuel filter, the spark plugs, and the battery are all factory original (almost 84,000 miles).

I wanted to change the battery because it has given me trouble in the past. I left it running for a small amount of time with the radio and lights on (fucking auto-headlights). Normally I can do that for 20+ minutes with no problems at all, but one time it lasted 10 minutes before it died, and the car wouldn't start. I rolled the car out into the driveway and the cold air recharged the battery in a few hours. I also have an audio system in progress. Right now it's just a 600w amp powering to 12" subs, but I'll be adding a 1000w amp to power my aftermarket speakers soon enough. Point-in-case I don't want a repeat of the above case in an undesireable location (such as at school, if I commute in the fall, and I have no jumper cables).

[PCGUY112887]

Since when is a standard battery supposed to keep all of that going (your subs plus all of the accessories it sounds like your keeping on since the lights are on) for a while with no power from the alt? You can turn the key back and have just the radio on ya know, all of the accessories and lights won't be on. Sounds like you need a deep cycle yellow-top optima battery or something simlar.

Leave the coils alone, unless you know one of them is faulty their very strong stock. Even if one is faulty, replace it with OEM. There is only 1 direct aftermarket replacement that I know of, and it's actually worse than stock.

If your belt is original, you can probally go ahead and replace it.

For sparkplugs go with some ACDelco Rapid Fire 8's and some nice wires (8mm MSD wires or similar if money permits). Don't buy into the fake "mutli-spark" crap plugs.

[IsaacHayes]

I have a large normal battery from wall=mart, it's got huge capacity (think full size truck amps). I've left my stereo on for 3 hours or more when workign on my car and never had issues, I just make sure it doesnt go too low and give it a good charge. I have a 340w RMS @12v amp, and an infinity self-powered sub too. Sounds like your battery is weak. But yeah don't expect your battery to power all that you have very long.

Not sure about having to crank it over longer, my friends 3400 impala does that. I'm guessing it's spark plugs, but maybe it is fuel now that I think about it. Odd... I'm running the ac delco normal plugs and they work great. I think they changed the plugs from what I use (1994) to something different for 2000+. But I would imagine either kind should work. I do know my cheapies work fine even with lots of miles, just not as smooth idle when they need changing.

[gboogie99]

plugs changed in 1996 from copper to platinum... they also got a tad longer and hotter, but plugs from any year will fit it.

I spend alot of time researching this stuf when I'm at advance

if you are gonna run the battery down like that, get an optima or other spiral cell battery . Lead cell batteries don't live long after being completely drained a few times.

[rknapp141]

I'm pretty sure my motor has iridium spark plugs from the factory (at least, that's what the engine timeline here on 60v6.com said for 2003, but the car was built in September 2002 so I'm sure if that makes any difference) so I'll probably pick up another set of those so I don't lose performance. I wanted to get NGK iridums but they'll probably be too expensive.

The belts we're probably not going to worry about. I want to say that they have been replaced because after almost 84,000 miles, they're tight and have no cracks in them. I checked them yesterday when I was messing with the battery, and hooking up a trunk light kill switch.

Would getting a red top be enough for the battery? I'm putting the car on display at Carisle in July, and I want to have to the subs going. When I ran it down before, the subs were not installed yet. I was actually crimping the power and ground wires for it when it happened lol. Now that I think about it, there was a time when I had the radio on for something like 30-60 minutes without the alternater going (before even getting my 55w foglights). Yellow top would be nice, but it would put a bigger dent in my wallet.

[PCGUY112887]

Yellow tops are meant for deep cycle, reds are more of a really good starting battery. Save the cash and get normal plugs and use it on the battery if you want to thump around at carshows.

[gboogie99]

check around for reconditioned red tops. I've seen them offered as low as 75 with warranty.

NGK iridiums are about 6 bux each, not too bad. I'd recommend ac delco platinum or autolite double platinum as those are the closest to OEM for your car and you can save some money towards the battery.

[Juglenaut]

That canister you see by the oil filter might be a transmission filter not really sure though.

[DEI37]

Actually, a metal canister up there would probably be an AC accumulator, or receiver/drier.

[Rhedalert]

The Delco Iridiums are made by NGK anyway, so either will be fine and around the same price.