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1993 Pont 3.1 running bad

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  • 1993 Pont 3.1 running bad

    No power 2 years ago. This forum said to check Cat Convert. And to do fuel pump pressure checks. Put in test pipe. Had new car. No emission check this state. Left in. Went back to bad. But it took about 2 years for same bad performance to show up. Floor board and lose speed. Back off throttle and gain speed. Only car I have owned that gained speed letting off the throttle. Replaced fuel pump, strainer, and fuel filter. Ran great for 2 weeks. Started running bad again. Before fuel pump change spark plugs white from too lean. Replaced ton of vacuum hoses that you could touch with finger and they would crumble. Little plastic buggers. Ran great again. For awhile. Went bad again. Changed plugs and wiring. No good. In total darkness, ran motor, and no spark jump on coil. With new fuel pump, etc change, sparkys now black from running too rich. That is why I changed the wires and sparkys out. Sparkys last changed 50,000 before. New did not change anything. New wires did not change anyting.

    Guru on radio talk show said evap filter plugged up. Will run too rich. Disconnected lines to evap can, and ran great for another 2 weeks. Thought prob solved again. Back to same thing again. Codes come up 32 and 62. With 199,000 plus miles do not want to put much into it. EGR replacement around $300. And that might not be the prob. Cruise control works perfect. As long as engine temp stays under 150 degrees it runs great. That seems to be the threshold. Hotter engine gets, doggier it runs. Cold, I can turn the tires and it pulls hard. Low compression, would not let motor turn tires and pull like mad when engine just cool. HAS to be another prob other than low compression. Know about piston swell. They do not swell and cylinder bores stretch that much to change the performance as much as I have. Running temp, can hardly get down the road. Back way off throttle, and can do 85Mph as long as I don't get over 1/4 throttle. Go to half throttle, and does not gain speed, but does not lose either. Feel it missing.

    I am missing something here in my head. Going to do check on vacuum lines again. Thinking new MAP sensor. But so many nickel and dime solutions. Every change I made, made it better, but it goes BACK to same condition after time to the same prob. Here is another prob. I am 58 years old, so am old school. I used to super tune 440 SixPac's. Could make small block Chev's beat anyone elses. Carb motor I know what to do. What used to be simple is no longer. Long in years, short on change. Ideas anyone???

  • #2
    not to sound like an ass, but I can't understand what you are saying.
    Ben
    60DegreeV6.com
    WOT-Tech.com

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    • #3
      Have you checked the coil packs or ICM yet? Sounds like you may be lacking spark, and whenever you make a change, it helps it out a little bit, but eventually, the old worn out coil packs just can't deliver the spark needed.
      -Brad-
      89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
      sigpic
      Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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      • #4
        think found prob waiting parts

        Got smart maybe. Used inductive timing light to check fire. Separated wires out of looms so could get to individual wires. Watching flashes on light, Inductive timing light showed one coil totally dead one cylinder. Coil handles two cylinders. One sparky wire next on SAME coil firing OK. Next coil over, had one wire missing once in a while. A sparky fouled out can still take juice. Sometimes. Just going right to ground. Could hear engine running good, and corresponded with flashing light all wires. Engine start missing, could see that cylinder not firing on the timing light. (No Flash) Going from one wire to the other.

        Have Replaced all computer code stuff to no avail. Sparkys, wires, Map, throttle position,, and anything the computer code said. Lots of money and no results. See lots of others this forum doing the same thing. Then did the spark test with inductive timing light. Thru lots of searches realized, that missing plugs, whatever for whatever reason, because of rich mixture, triggers the error codes. Nothing maybe wrong with MAP, etc. Error codes come up anyway.

        Because of placement of the coil packs, hard to test coils, and could not find coil specs anyway. (Haynes) Lots of sellers out there selling sparky testers.

        35 years ago, Champion Spark Plug sold an inductive spark tester. Looked like a writing pen. Just touch a wire with it and it would show if firing or not. Some lucky person stole the one we had. Searched everywhere and cannot find it anymore. Sure saved alot of work. Inductive timing light can show same thing without having to mess with firewall issues on V6. Can find the bad one misser without having to remove the wire from sparky. Find the bad one, and then figure it out. Used to use inductive timing light 20 years ago, after tester dissappeared and in my old age forgot about it.

        Ordered all three coil packs, still awaiting shipment, but am very sure the coil packs are the prob. If two bad, the other is not far behind. THANKS bszopi. I am sure you hit it right on. Inductive timing light easy test for firing. If you do your own work, you probally have an inductive timing light. Just thought I would pass it along.

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        • #5
          Count mesa outta dis! Better dead here, den deader in da core.… Yee guds, whata mesa sayin?!

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          • #6
            coils

            replaced coils today. Runs great. better than has in couple of years. thanks.

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