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Head Gasket Replacement Tips - Shortcuts - Advice Wanted

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  • Head Gasket Replacement Tips - Shortcuts - Advice Wanted

    The head gaskets in my 1990 3.1 L engine need to be replaced. Anyone have any advice on doing this job? I've done easy stuff like brakes and alternator, plugs, etc., but never torn down the top end of an engine, so any advice you can share would be appreciated.
    1995 Cutlass Supreme
    3.4 dohc

  • #2
    Best thing is, since its your first time, to take your time and label connectors, bolts, etc that you think you'll forget where they go. If you had to drive the car for a little bit after the head gaskets blew, you'll need to get your heads checked for warping. Get a book, like a haynes or chiltons that will give you a general how to.
    Robby Whitesell
    2006 Pontiac G6 GT
    1985 Toyota Pickup DLX

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    • #3
      your sig says 3.4 DOHC so this is a different car right?
      95 MC Z34 Black
      Running strong with new engine, transmission, brakes and suspension.

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      • #4
        The signature refers to our 95 Cutlass convertible. It has the 3.4 dohc, and was the reason I originally stumbled across this forum.

        The car with a blown head gasket is a '90 Beretta 3.1 L that I've had since new and maintained pretty well. It does have almost 215,000 miles on it. The car's in good shape and still runs good, so I hate to get rid of it even though it is a 16 year old car. Now watch, I'll get this done and the tranny will die or a bearing will fry due to the coolant that got into the oil.

        Anyway, I'm pretty confident I can get the engine apart, it's the getting it back together correctly that will be the trick. I'll definitely label everything and take it slow - and I do have the factory service manual to use as a reference.
        1995 Cutlass Supreme
        3.4 dohc

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        • #5
          did the lim on my beretta for the first time last year just take you time and dont mix the bolts up. get a peice of styrofoam or an old cardboard box to keep the pushrods in, put holes in the box but keep them in order.
          sigpic
          99 Grand Am GT
          3400/3500 -Solid trans mount--TCE 65mm T-body---85mm LS2 maf---1 1/4' TCE intake spacers with 3400 upper--SLP Catback with flowmaster 80--TOG headers
          Modded 3400 lifters with LT1 springs---Comp Cams 26986 Springs
          1357 cam 227 233 .050 dur
          515 515 lift 112 lsa
          15.232@88.85mph on stock 3400---New time to come


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          • #6
            Re: Head Gasket Replacement Tips - Shortcuts - Advice Wanted

            Originally posted by clevo
            The head gaskets in my 1990 3.1 L engine need to be replaced. Anyone have any advice on doing this job? I've done easy stuff like brakes and alternator, plugs, etc., but never torn down the top end of an engine, so any advice you can share would be appreciated.
            Get a book. Follow the directions and take your time. To hell with checking the surface, get the heads planed anyways. Just in case. Taking short cuts will only screw you later down the road.
            97 Cavalier RS
            3400, Isuzu MK7

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            • #7
              buy a storage container with removable dividers, and as you pull the bolts put them in a spot and put a peice of paper in with them that says where they go

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              • #8
                Originally posted by 96mcls
                buy a storage container with removable dividers, and as you pull the bolts put them in a spot and put a peice of paper in with them that says where they go
                x2 I'm doing that while I'm tearing down my block for my rebuild and it's working great

                http://members.cox.net/gts-4x4/image...%20(Small).jpg
                http://members.cox.net/gts-4x4/image...%20(Small).jpg

                I used to use that box particularly for my old R/C truck parts... still getting put to good use though.
                -Tony | gtsdurango.net
                '04 Dakota Quad Cab SLT 4x4 - the gas guzzling DD.
                '90 Turbo Grand Prix STE - ehh.. I'm working on it.
                '92 Gutless Supreme SL - RIP 5.2010
                '90 Turbo Grand Prix - RIP 6.15.2005

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                • #9
                  nice box, i use the same one only it's red

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                  • #10
                    I've even used ziplock bags marked with what bolts go where. If you have a digital camera you can also take pictures before you start and along the way so that you can see what goes where. Just like everybody else said get a book, take your time, get your heads milled and valves checked, and keep everything in order.

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                    • #11
                      make you dont leave anything where it shouldnt go. keep track of everything and make sure the deck and head surfaces are clean when you put it back to gether. also you should get new head bolts, i know somepeople reuse them, but i dont and probly never will.
                      If you aren't friends with a liar, you aren't friends with anyone.

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                      • #12
                        If you got any bolts going into aluminum threads... put antisieze on them. Except the LIM bolts of course, which should get locktite. Antisieze is wonderful stuff... steel and aluminum don't play well together, especially when things get a little older and the plating on the bolts begins to deteriorate.

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                        • #13
                          Get beer.
                          If you are driving a Chevy, everything else, is just a blur. 3.4 Carbon Footprint.
                          sigpic

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                          • #14
                            Don't use antisieze librally. I wouldn't loctight anything unless a service manual requires it.
                            I am back

                            Mechanical/Service Technican

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                            • #15
                              The lifters!

                              I agree with Tractorman, use anti-seize on the threads because I've seen this happen on Honda heads and blocks where you go to put it together and the bolt won't tighten. You pull the bolt out and you see aluminum in the threads, this is bad, Helicoil time.

                              Also, when you're all done, don't freak out when the vehicle runs like crap for awhile because it will until the lifters pump up. The idle will get progressively smoother over a period of a few minutes. Good Luck!
                              Regards,
                              Tee

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