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95 3100 distributor plug o ring leak

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  • 95 3100 distributor plug o ring leak

    I am having trouble removing the plug . naturally, i removed the hold downbraket. it spins around super easy and lifts up and down about a 1/16th of an inch, but will not come out . i tried pliers while tapping with a hammer. the center part of it started to drop when using pliers on the lip. it seems like it will be destroyed trying to remove it. im ready to put the intake back on and this little p.o.s. is holding me up. any experience with this? thanks for any response

  • #2
    I stuck two flat head screw drivers around it and just forced mine up ([3.1/2.8 ]) . It should be no differ than how you would do it. Try to mark it how it comes out. It makes it easier for installation.
    Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

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    • #3
      Pull the ignition fuse, the ECM fuse, and INJ fuse. Then have buddy crank the engine while you pull up on it with a vise grip and giver it a tap it should release after that.

      The plug is not keyed so it doesn't matter which way you put it in.
      I am back

      Mechanical/Service Technican

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Juglenaut
        Pull the ignition fuse, the ECM fuse, and INJ fuse. Then have buddy crank the engine while you pull up on it with a vise grip and giver it a tap it should release after that.

        The plug is not keyed so it doesn't matter which way you put it in.
        Originally posted by Comic Book Guy
        WORST IDEA EVER!
        As suggested, use two prying devices, prefreable small pry bars under the sides of the oil pump drive and pry up.

        It sound like yours might be stuck on the oil pump drive shaft, and if that's the case, any damage thay may have already occured to the oil pump drive plug, already has, so you may need a new one.

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        • #5
          fucen worked for me so BTFO

          common sense wrote:

          would pull on it while standing on the ground on the driver side while the car was in park, and on the ground with wheel cogs...need I say more.....
          I am back

          Mechanical/Service Technican

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          • #6
            thanks for the guick responce. we got it out with vice grips and a dent puller with a hook on vice grips on bottom lip.plug on top looks deeper down . i will just rtv it. i was going to use a 350 dist. gasket too, but must have thrown them all out. we:ll use a trace of rtv instead. the heads and intale water ports were really corroued. when touching with a dental pick, chunks came out. i cleaned good and built it up with jb weld.i will use rtv around water ports. hope the heads are in better shape. we switched to green antifreeze when car was a few years old, 97?. should have done it sooner. thanks

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            • #7
              Originally posted by dmc
              thanks for the guick responce. we got it out with vice grips and a dent puller with a hook on vice grips on bottom lip.plug on top looks deeper down . i will just rtv it. i was going to use a 350 dist. gasket too, but must have thrown them all out. we:ll use a trace of rtv instead. the heads and intale water ports were really corroued. when touching with a dental pick, chunks came out. i cleaned good and built it up with jb weld.i will use rtv around water ports. hope the heads are in better shape. we switched to green antifreeze when car was a few years old, 97?. should have done it sooner. thanks
              Get the proper O-ring, You'll be pulling it back out shortly if you don't.

              Don't use a SBC gasket, it lifts the whole drive up a small amount that can put the gears out of thier wear in marks and have been known to cause excessive gear wear after wards. Also the gasket will not seal for long, if you don't use the O-ring. There is enough oil pressure there to push the thin gasket right out.

              I've tried other ways than to get the O-ring in the end, the $2.85 (or what ever pennies it was) was well worth it.

              Originally posted by juglenaut
              fucen worked for me so BTFO

              common sense wrote:

              would pull on it while standing on the ground on the driver side while the car was in park, and on the ground with wheel cogs...need I say more.....
              No, it's a bad idea, because you are removing the oil pump drive, meaning that as you are lifting it, the oil pump is no longer putting oil through the engine, causing excessive wear on DRY bearings. The oil pump drive shaft is disengaged before the drive releases, meaning that the engine could be turning over for a while, with no oil being pumped through. Unfortunatly common sense wasn't with you that day, I hated when I read his obituary, but I knew it was true.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by 1988GTU
                Try to mark it how it comes out. It makes it easier for installation.
                I did not mean to say to mark it for a keyed purpose. I just thought it'll help you out in the long run so you do not have to keep pushing down, pulling up to seat it right. That what I did and it helped.
                Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

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                • #9
                  pry bar and a little muscle worked for me.

                  Juglenaut wrote:

                  Pull the ignition fuse, the ECM fuse, and INJ fuse. Then have buddy crank the engine while you pull up on it with a vise grip and giver it a tap it should release after that.

                  I would assume that Juglenaut meant just to tap the key to turn the engine over slightly and release any tension on the gears. I don't think turning it over that very little bit would cause any engine damage.

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                  • #10
                    He'd probably get away with it, but I wouldn't try that myself. Not only would it not help, but there's a possibility that if you DO get it pried out while the engine is cranking, it could put things in a bind and break something. But I reckon he got it out, so that's neither here nor there now.

                    BTW- GM makes a fancy new silicon o-ring that's supposed to hold up better than the old style. Doesn't cost much.

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                    • #11
                      I'm not sure I understood your post correctly, DMC. Did you mean you plan on putting some RTV on a NEW o-ring, or putting some RTV on the OLD o-ring and putting it back in that way?

                      You'd better go back with a new o-ring... or you'll be changing it again real soon. A little RTV on a new o-ring isn't neccesary, but it won't hurt anything.

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                      • #12
                        As discussed many times, use a GM distributor gasket under the flange. I like Copper Bond gasket sealer also. You really can't beat the old fashioned paper gaskets.

                        I thought someone would have done a walk through by now, with pics.

                        I'd advise against the RTV on the o-ring. Silicone doesn't bond to rubber, especially when introduced to oil. Makes more of a mess.
                        If you are driving a Chevy, everything else, is just a blur. 3.4 Carbon Footprint.
                        sigpic

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                        • #13
                          i already bought a new o-ring a few days ago for $1.08. i meant using rtv real thin under the oil pump housing or actually on the machined part on block, where some people use a paper gasket.like mentioned, too thick a gasket could change gear pattern wear. i would never put rtv on the o-ring.

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