LA1 Rear Main Seal

[91BerettaGT]

Hey... For those who don't know me I mainly post on V6z24.com and Domesticcrew.com.

I've built a 3400 motor, with miled port and polish, 3500 upper plenum, adaptor S10 Throttle body. And a few other goodies. It's been off the road since the end of July of 2005 because of a clutch fork failure.

I'm finally ready to start and finish building this thing.

I overfilled the block with oil on purpose. For 2 reasons, 1 To preserve the block while it sat being unused. and 2. To check to see if i have any leaks.

I have 2 Oil leaks, One's my fault for being lazy, (Valve cover Grommets, i already did the gaskets, just put off the gromets)

And the other oil leak is the Rear main seal (already did the intake gasket).

The rear main seal appears to be inside the oil pan. Has anyone done the seal on the LA1 3400 motors? Whats the easiest most effecient and most proper way to do it?

Any recommendations on a Seal? They have a Teflon coated one and a rubber one.

I did search, found nothing except that "oh it's easy" basically.

Does the main cap have to be unbolted? oil pan?

Thanks!!!

[v6h.o.]

Step One: Pull trans and either flexplate/flywheel.

Step Two, Use a screwdriver to pry out old seal. *NOTE* do not gouge your crank or the sealing surface of the pan/block with screwdriver.

Step Three: Install new seal being cautious of not damaging it. There is a special tool for sliping those bastards on nice and easy. however the old use a small hammer to tap it in place and make sure its evenly flush across the whole crank area always works too.

No main cap, no pan removal ness. Pop it out. Slip in the new one.

[91BerettaGT]

Step One: Pull trans and either flexplate/flywheel.

Step Two, Use a screwdriver to pry out old seal. *NOTE* do not gouge your crank or the sealing surface of the pan/block with screwdriver.

Step Three: Install new seal being cautious of not damaging it. There is a special tool for sliping those bastards on nice and easy. however the old use a small hammer to tap it in place and make sure its evenly flush across the whole crank area always works too.

No main cap, no pan removal ness. Pop it out. Slip in the new one.

This is why i waited to install the trans. Thank you god colin yet again you save my ass.

Now the info is out there.

Only differece between these and a small block chevy (350) now is that the 350 has gouges that you can use to pry against the seal.

2 options. Rubber, or PTFE Rubber... Any difference between the 2?

I'll just use what i did at work... a 4" axle nut socket that has rubber along the sides so i don't damage the seal

[v6h.o.]

2 options. Rubber, or PTFE Rubber... Any difference between the 2?

??? I don't know. I just always buy GM.

[91BerettaGT]

2 options. Rubber, or PTFE Rubber... Any difference between the 2?

??? I don't know. I just always buy GM.

Good point... lol

I went to the dealer yesterday and got one. I was going to use a Fel-pro part... ...

Nice title colin haha

[sharkey]

when you get the old seal out, check to make sure there isnt a big groove in the crank. if there is a groove, go back to the parts store and get a speedy sleave for the crank. a speedy sleave is a small sleave about .005" thick (at very most) that goes over the crank and give you a better surface for the seal to ride on.

[v6h.o.]

when you get the old seal out, check to make sure there isnt a big groove in the crank. if there is a groove, go back to the parts store and get a speedy sleave for the crank. a speedy sleave is a small sleave about .005" thick (at very most) that goes over the crank and give you a better surface for the seal to ride on.

Agree'd.