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making an engine oil primer with an old distributor?

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  • making an engine oil primer with an old distributor?

    i've heard the best way to prime the oiling system is to use an old 2.8 distributor. how is this done? i did a search but came up empty handed.

    do i just grind the cam gears off and just bolt it in place of the distributor drive dummy shaft (making sure it engages the square oil pump drive of course) then spin the distributor with a drill until oil comes out of the top of the pushrods?

    any advice suggestions appreciated, thanks
    '91 Cutlass Supreme sedan - 3.1 Intercooled Turbo / Getrag HM-282 5-speed - 13psi / lightly modded
    '98 Regal GS - 3800 Series II Supercharged/HM-4T65E-HD - 180* T-stat, otherwise stock


    GM W-body Forums

  • #2
    RE: making an engine oil primer with an old distributor?

    Yes, that is exactly right, if your engine uses a distributor.

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    • #3
      RE: making an engine oil primer with an old distributor?

      We have the provison for a distributor in the block, so it would still work.
      -Brad-
      89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
      sigpic
      Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

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      • #4
        RE: making an engine oil primer with an old distributor?

        Know whats even easier...

        8mm socket, long 12inch extension, and a drill with a bit for drill bit to 3/8ths socket end.

        works everytime. Heaps easier than having to locate a distributor.
        Colin
        92 Sunbird GT, 3200 Hybrid 13.99@ 95.22 (2004)
        90 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 10.54 @ 129mph.

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        • #5
          Yup precisely what I used. Oh and get a drill with some balls. No Force or Powerfist tools.
          1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
          1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
          Because... I am, CANADIAN

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          • #6
            Re: RE: making an engine oil primer with an old distributor?

            Originally posted by v6h.o.
            Know whats even easier...

            8mm socket, long 12inch extension, and a drill with a bit for drill bit to 3/8ths socket end.

            works everytime. Heaps easier than having to locate a distributor.
            kick ass info, thanks
            '91 Cutlass Supreme sedan - 3.1 Intercooled Turbo / Getrag HM-282 5-speed - 13psi / lightly modded
            '98 Regal GS - 3800 Series II Supercharged/HM-4T65E-HD - 180* T-stat, otherwise stock


            GM W-body Forums

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            • #7
              Is it possible to just use your starter motor to oil prime your engine? Obviously disable the fuel and or ignition system to keep the engine from starting and then run the starter until oil pressure is developed. I always do this after an oil change to avoid a dry start, am I wasting time with this procedure or does it really work?

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              • #8
                i think youll just wear out a starter that wy, unless you pull the plugs too so it doesnt have to fight compresion. i belive that the ls1 motors are "cold spun" to 2000rpm to test the oil system before they are installed.
                If you aren't friends with a liar, you aren't friends with anyone.

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                • #9
                  Spinning the engine without spark will eventually prime the oil, but there is still the initial crank before pressure builds when the engine is dry.

                  I like to prime the pump with Colin's drill method for half a minute or so, to make sure the passges are filled, then I use the starter to crank the engine for 10-15 seconds (still running the pump with the drill). This allows evberything to circulate, for the crank journals that were not lined up while the engine was still to cycle oil, and the lifters that may have been off the base circle to come down. Maybe not necessary, but I think it ensures the engine is 100% prelubed before initial firing.

                  Marty
                  '99 Z-28 - Weekend Driver
                  '98 Dodge Neon - Winter Beater
                  '84 X-11 - Time and Money Pit
                  '88 Fiero Formula - Bone stock for now

                  Quote of the week:
                  Originally posted by Aaron
                  This is why I don't build crappy headers. I'm not sure, I don't know too much about welding.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by RacerX11
                    I like to prime the pump with Colin's drill method for half a minute or so, to make sure the passges are filled, then I use the starter to crank the engine for 10-15 seconds (still running the pump with the drill). This allows evberything to circulate, for the crank journals that were not lined up while the engine was still to cycle oil, and the lifters that may have been off the base circle to come down. Maybe not necessary, but I think it ensures the engine is 100% prelubed before initial firing.

                    Marty
                    sounds like what i'm going to do, but i'm going to do it without the starter & while the engine is still on the stand. i was just planning on turning the engine over by hand 180' a few times while running the oil pump with a drill.

                    btw, what do you guys use for sealant when installing a new oil pump (oil-pump-to-block surface)? on the 2.2L in my GTS i used Mopar anerobic sealant..
                    '91 Cutlass Supreme sedan - 3.1 Intercooled Turbo / Getrag HM-282 5-speed - 13psi / lightly modded
                    '98 Regal GS - 3800 Series II Supercharged/HM-4T65E-HD - 180* T-stat, otherwise stock


                    GM W-body Forums

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