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Found the problem related to the amber [ABS lamp] on and no anti-lock brake function, or traction conrol.
A friend of mine works at a Cadillac dealer, so I stoped by and borrowed their Tech II. Read 3 codes related to the right front vehicle speed sensor.....#1 Open/right front vehicle speed sensor, #2 NO signal Right front vehicle speed sensor.......can't remember what the third code was but it also was related to the Right front vehicle speed sensor only. Come to think of it, possible variable signal, right front vehicle speed sensor? I can't recall, as I didn't write them down.
My cost for a new vehicle speed sensor was $41.00.......replacement required removing the right front tire, HIGHLY RECOMMEND spraying the two bolts that hold the sensor to the hub, with HEAT PENETRANT. The two bolts were very rusty, and the HEAT PENETRANT really worked well. Had to remove the caliper, by unbolting the Caliper bracket and NOT the 15 mm bolts that holds the caliper to the caliper bracket. Removing the caliper hold down bracket allows for easier access to the vehicle speed sensor bolts because you'll need to remove the rotor too.
The sensor unbolts from the top of the wheel hub [2 bolts], (one small bolt) holds the lead that goes to the sensor against the lower strut bracket, connector has to be removed to the sensor of course, and it slides out, rather tightly, over top of the right front CV boot.
Was told I was lucky this car has the sensor designed this way....new cars today you have to replace the whole hub, to replace a faulty vehicle speed sensor!!!!
Installed the new sensor, and cleared the three separated Body codes, relating to the right speed sensor, by using the Tech II. NO ABS lamp on anymore
, anti-lock funtion is restored, as well as traction control.
Still puzzeled by engine misfire.......will go with plugs 1st.......and see if that fixes the problem. I'll "OHM out" the SP wires individually, If i find any one plug wire with greater than 40 OHMS" per foot, I'll replace them all with new GM wires. I hate installing new spark plug wires if it didn't fix the problem. Been their done that, so to speak, the plug wires appear to be in very nice shape, and they passed a "wet down test" by spraying them with water to check for arching. No shorting wires.
The last part I'll throw at it is a set of coil packs....as it is.......plugs are going to cost big money, (for Platinum tipped plugs) and I can imagine wires are better than $50.00 bucks for the set so.........I'll OHM them first, instead of throwing new wires at it, in case I have a failing coil pack........I'd rather replace what neeeds replacing rather than throw money in the wrong direction.
Will update to see if I cured this missfire on Hot-restart only! It will not missfire cold at all! And After better than 1 hour now, it will start and run fine. Miss-fire goes away after goosing throttle, as IF ITS FLOODED during the miss firing
Another words the missfire goes away and is NO LONGER a problem after it does this, and clears up..... 
This is why I'm having a hard time suspecting spark plugs, and or SP wires. If it is a bad spark plug, why does'nt it missfire under load, or all the time during normal driving. Ditto on the wires 
Frustrating to have a problem that comes and goes, especially when no specific codes other than engine miss fire code PO 300 is set. Wish the computer showed coil pack firing voltage, by individual coil pack!
--Bens71442
A friend of mine works at a Cadillac dealer, so I stoped by and borrowed their Tech II. Read 3 codes related to the right front vehicle speed sensor.....#1 Open/right front vehicle speed sensor, #2 NO signal Right front vehicle speed sensor.......can't remember what the third code was but it also was related to the Right front vehicle speed sensor only. Come to think of it, possible variable signal, right front vehicle speed sensor? I can't recall, as I didn't write them down.
My cost for a new vehicle speed sensor was $41.00.......replacement required removing the right front tire, HIGHLY RECOMMEND spraying the two bolts that hold the sensor to the hub, with HEAT PENETRANT. The two bolts were very rusty, and the HEAT PENETRANT really worked well. Had to remove the caliper, by unbolting the Caliper bracket and NOT the 15 mm bolts that holds the caliper to the caliper bracket. Removing the caliper hold down bracket allows for easier access to the vehicle speed sensor bolts because you'll need to remove the rotor too.
The sensor unbolts from the top of the wheel hub [2 bolts], (one small bolt) holds the lead that goes to the sensor against the lower strut bracket, connector has to be removed to the sensor of course, and it slides out, rather tightly, over top of the right front CV boot.
Was told I was lucky this car has the sensor designed this way....new cars today you have to replace the whole hub, to replace a faulty vehicle speed sensor!!!!
Installed the new sensor, and cleared the three separated Body codes, relating to the right speed sensor, by using the Tech II. NO ABS lamp on anymore
, anti-lock funtion is restored, as well as traction control.Still puzzeled by engine misfire.......will go with plugs 1st.......and see if that fixes the problem. I'll "OHM out" the SP wires individually, If i find any one plug wire with greater than 40 OHMS" per foot, I'll replace them all with new GM wires. I hate installing new spark plug wires if it didn't fix the problem. Been their done that, so to speak, the plug wires appear to be in very nice shape, and they passed a "wet down test" by spraying them with water to check for arching. No shorting wires.
The last part I'll throw at it is a set of coil packs....as it is.......plugs are going to cost big money, (for Platinum tipped plugs) and I can imagine wires are better than $50.00 bucks for the set so.........I'll OHM them first, instead of throwing new wires at it, in case I have a failing coil pack........I'd rather replace what neeeds replacing rather than throw money in the wrong direction.
Will update to see if I cured this missfire on Hot-restart only! It will not missfire cold at all! And After better than 1 hour now, it will start and run fine. Miss-fire goes away after goosing throttle, as IF ITS FLOODED during the miss firing
Another words the missfire goes away and is NO LONGER a problem after it does this, and clears up..... This is why I'm having a hard time suspecting spark plugs, and or SP wires. If it is a bad spark plug, why does'nt it missfire under load, or all the time during normal driving. Ditto on the wires Frustrating to have a problem that comes and goes, especially when no specific codes other than engine miss fire code PO 300 is set. Wish the computer showed coil pack firing voltage, by individual coil pack!
--Bens71442
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